(Convoy) What's so great about an SS bezel, if it results in a bad beam?

I jumped out of my chair and grabbed my M2 with SST40 and can hardly notice the outer ring. Maybe it has a lot to doing with the fact Convoy models aren’t designed for one set LED like other brands.

Because it makes this less likely to happen in situations where it matters:

Are you sure it’s the bezel causing the artifacts? On the couple i have (non-convoy)i don’t get artifacts but glare (which i realise is subjective).
I colour the inside of reflective bezels with black felt-tip pen, it’s not a perfect or permanent solution but it’s quick and cheap and reduces the glare enough.

May work for the artifacts?

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I’m a Convoy dealer, so for obvious reasons I can’t start coloring in each bezel lol. I’m not a large enough store to request a custom version, so I’ve just had to avoid stocking every SS model.

It’s 100% the SS bezel causing it. I don’t get any artifacts with the Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max, WR, and Nichia versions either

There are other means to this end. I use a black felt tip pen on my gaskets.
But it’s not a bad idea to blacken the interior part of SS (thrower) bezels.

Some guys using heat annodizing so steel reflections (artifacts) are reduced by a lot.

I’m simply use permanent marker and “draw” on inner side of the bezel where it’s in conntqct with lens.

a. subjective, i don;t think a ring is bad
b. aluminum would do the same thing
c. just get a magic marker and color it black [wasting lumens though]
d. i do need EDC ring to be strong, i drop them a lot, i have Al rings that have many dents

I did not remember the ring was there on the beam from my M21C-U. I notice it again now that you mention it. However, the ring goes outside of my field of view if the distance from the beam is more than 1 meter. Personally, I don’t mind it at all. Of course, added sturdiness is quite important especially the heavy ones. Heavy lights gets damaged way easily if dropped.

Just imagine the artifacts you must get from the Wurkkos T30S murder bezel :smiley:

Well, it sounds like I’m being a bit too picky. The reason I haven’t been stocking SS bezel models is because I thought my customers would start complaining about it.

If lets say you purchased them from a store for 3x the price, would you then have an issue with the beam?

Haha, yes, that one would be quite something. Glad it was optional

Apparently the bezel is discontinued now. I’m not sure if it was because of all the jokes or if it was for liability reasons. I am no lawyer, but I think even self defense would look like premeditated violence if you carried this monstrosity around.

It’s meant to protect the light. Just take a torch to it and problem solved and if you do it right it can look nice.

Elzetta is regarded as one of the most bombproof tactical lights. Their solution: just a whole lot of aluminium at the bezel.

In outdoor use I barely notice the reflections from my convoy s12, though.

Huh, never heard of them before today.

@Funtastic : With your being a store owner I can believe that's annoying.

As an individual it's also annoying, but a bit of time, etching solution, and permanent black marker solves the problem.

Popular in the same circles as surefire. Probably mostly purchased with taxpayer money.

Surefire I’ve heard of though. Weird that I am jjust now hearing about Elzetta. Maybe it’s because they don’t look as tacticool

So many Convoy lights have stainless bezels? I’d not really noticed. I think I only have one an M2. But I don’t recall a ringy beam. Will have to check.

Although I run a Nichols 219B in mine. Bought as a host.

M2 is fine for me with an SST40, but everything else I’ve tried is ringy. H1, H2, H3, M21C, M21G, M21D.

I see little point of the strengthening benefits on the headlamps since the bezel is flush with the head. The H2 & H3 beam profile is the worst of the headlamps.

Sofirn’s SP40 has no such ring, as far as I recall

The geometry of an SS bezel matters. Artifacts can be completely avoided with the right geometry.

I don’t consider regular unhardened stainless to be the ideal bezel material. Hardened stainless (which is inexpensive) or grade 5 titanium would be better. I would guess that hard anodized 7075 alloy aluminum is comparable to an unhardened SS bezel in terms of how it handles drops. Eventually I’ll get around to testing this theory.