This is the first time i’m hearing of the P45B, where can I buy those!?
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There is low voltage protection but the battery might drain to 0V if you leave it on for a few days. The torch started flashing around 5.93V to indicate that the voltage is low. It turned off at 5.82V and a current of 53mA continued to be drawn.
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Could you pls explain the 53 mA current draw? This is a continuous drain when light is off? Any idea what causes it? Thanks.
NKON had them last time I checked
Critique of this review:
No tear down. No mention of what mechanical switch is in it. No details about or photos of the driver.
I hooked the head of the flashlight up to a bench power supply via digital multimeter (measuring current) and set the voltage to 8.4V and gradually turned it down to 5.93V.
The current continued at 53mA when the voltage went below 5.93V and the LED was off. This could be an LVP issue.
Can’t wait to get mine. My boy Neal said that there are LED shortages or something and offered to let me order another light. I’m in no particular hurry but this puppy will be a fun toy! I like being able to carry an extra pair of batteries instead of sitting there waiting for some stupid proprietary USB charger to take hours to charge the internal battery cough Imalent cough
Vapcell have some P45B but they’re a bit expensive at this point in time. They might be cheaper when they’re more widely available.
I currently don’t have 30T or P45B handy to test. I have Samsung 40T, Vapcell T50, Lishen LR2170HP, various Sofirn/Wurkkos 21700 cells, and some Weltool and Cyansky 21700 cells with built-in USB-C chargers.
SFQ60.3 6000K seems to be out of stock. Nightwatch are making NS59V2 with XHP50.3 HD 6500K. It looks floodier and might hit 38k lumens instead of 31k lumens. I wonder if they’ll continue to make it with SFQ60.3… XHP50.3 looks nice on paper too.
Could you pls explain why you wrote the above? Are you referring to the 2 batteries in the tested light having different voltages? What kind of problem? Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback. The review format that I use is heavily influenced by 1lumen, tacgriz and zeroair. I.e. “User interface and driver” is one section that I try to cover but I rarely delve into details about the driver.
Here’s a teardown of the driver and tailswitch:
Cells are running in series so the flashlight is only seeing one voltage reading. If one cell isn’t matched in capacity it’s going to discharge lower than the other cell, this is a rather large issue if it discharges past 2.5v
Thanks Tim for the good review. I looked up the Acebeam X75 or Imalent MS18 since you mentioned they are “flooders with longer runtimes if money is not a concern.” After I see the cost of those 2 lights I would say money is always a concern 
. The Chaos is extremely attractive at $128, but how do I know that it would ship with SFQ60.3 leds?
Sources please. I’m also thinking the XHP50.3 is a good alternative. But all my searches about Nightwatch keeps coming back the Neal. Is it his own brand?
@cannga, when you have cells in series, any deviation in capacity will result in reduced usable capacity and cycle life, which gets worse as they get cycled.
Nightwatch has a Taobao store. I don’t think they ship to all countries. Neal stocks them and ships internationally.
geforce73 on reddit appears to have read product descriptions written in Chinese on Taobao and created a table in English to describe the differences between various models:
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/ymqta7/new_nightwatch_flashlights_ns59v2_ns59_single/
I have no vested interest in sharing the taobao link but here it is:
You might need the Taobao app installed to view product information…
Nice review. A better design would be 3 x 21700 in a soda can format.
Three 21700s in series?
It would be interesting to measure the switch resistance. Does the tailcap get hot during turbo?
Thank you for adding this tear down Tim. I am glad it went back together for you afterwards.
Not enough thermal paste under the MCPCB might be a slight problem!
The switch appears to have a removable cover over it. I’m not sure what make it is, but it sure has to pass a lot of amps!
Looks like the driver relies on direct drive for turbo and high modes, at least initially, and buck regulation for the other modes.
While using an infrared thermometer, I did not notice the tailcap get hotter than the rest of the body. The head was hottest, and it became cooler as I measured closer to the end of the tailcap.
Yeah. The lack of thermal paste is a concern. I am lucky that some LEDs did not burn themselves.
It’s worth replacing the thermal paste and spreading it around properly. The driver wires are a bit difficult to desolder and solder. I cut the wires with flush cutters at the joint, cleaned off solder from the board, added some flux and added some more solder. The solder joints need to be neat and tidy or they might touch the metal reflector and create a short.
It would have been nice to see four screws used instead of one for the MCPCB too. There are four threaded holes but I only found one screw.
This is definitely a budget torch for enthusiasts. Scary fun! 