Hi there, no PWM on any mode per my Opple meter.
Stay safe.
You’re very welcome. And actually in the adjacent beamshot with Carlo 10621, I could see some tint shift creeping in around the “corona” area. So yeah for D4V2 I think no reason to replace 10622.
As much as I love the H2, primarily because of its weight IMHO it’s not necessarily a good gift for muggles. For us it’s ok because we know its 219b beam color is unmatched and so is the sustained brightness, but a muggle wouldn’t necessarily appreciate the light the same way.
If it’s not a self gift and for muggles, I am thinking Sofirn D25L (I have this, a little green but very floody and the perfect headlight for work around the house) or Sofirn D25S.
BTW I’ve found headlamps above 4 oz to be heavy enough that a headband with headstrap is required. This list includes my Coast, Fenix, and the 2 Convoys H2. The 2 Sofirn’s are below 4 oz and very comfortable to wear. Only negative is it’s micro USB or whatever the name is, and not USB C.
I ordered the optic pack for the S21D to try the 10 degree clear since I originally got the 60 degree option for mine. I also couldn’t resist adding the sm453 MAO S2+ to my cart lol
Thanks - that copper D4V2 sure is a pretty face .
Yeah I don’t really need another light, but felt like the BAM led is “collectible” class.
Unfortunately per Simon new S21D is only black for now.
One issue I can see is that since 1) angular tint shift makes the hotspot of a light warmer, and 2) this combination has throwy warm emitter and floody cool emitters, the resulting beam profile will have EXTREMELY bad tint shift, with an orange center and purple spill.
I would recommend keeping all emitters domed or dedomed, or to mix low CCT domed with high CCT dedomed.
I disagree. The rosy-purplish “goodness” is revolting even for some flashaholics. The more creamy, sunlight-like tint of the 519 is easier for the eyes and easier to exaplain as a good thing.
Very interesting discussion as always, but could you explain the part I underlined?
Domed 519a (with the dome causing tint shift no?) has higher CCT than a dedomed 519a, so shouldn’t it be “angular tint shift makes hotspot of a LED/light cooler”?
I was disappointed the Nightwatch Chaos is not available to buy for Xmas gift, but I think this Wurkkos TS32 would more than ease the pain.
14000 lm of Nichia goodness from twelve 519a’s in a soda can light. What I hope to use it for is to light up my front garden for viewing or night photography for example. A floody pattern of light AND a lot of light even for short moments would be great.
No doubt Wurkkos has been on a roll, releasing some great AND compelling inexpensive lights such as TS30s and TS10 (let’s not talk about TS21 lol ). I once thought Wurkkos is just Sofirn’s sidekick little brother, but somewhere along the line they’ve become a force to be reckoned with.
Angular tint shift refers to variations in tint as a function of angle, within the same emitter. It does NOT refer to the CCT change going from domed to dedomed.
Domed LEDs tend to send bluish light forward and yellow-green light to the side. The emission collected by a reflector/TIR into the hotspot is mostly the sideways emission, which is warmer than the average/integrated CCT of the emitter, hence a warmer (and greener) hotspot.
If you are ok with angular tint shift, this is a completely fine configuration. If you care about beam consistency like me, this is not the way to go. It's all up to personal preference.