YinDing 5050 in a S11
Surprisingly intense beam for only 3A
I used a leftover 3A qlite driver.
r/flashlight - Acebeam Pokelit AA dedomed vs 2AA
16 votes and 14 comments so far on Reddit
YinDing 5050 in a S11
Surprisingly intense beam for only 3A
I used a leftover 3A qlite driver.
Damn, that’s a nice tight beam for a tubelight.
T3 519A 5000K (dedome + 60 TIR) getting 3600-3750K (had to file down the TIR to fit the T3)
It's little to long like 0.1mm or so, to screw it down all the way, but there's an o-ring, so there shouldn't be a problem with water
WB 5000K, 1/60s, ISO50, f1.8
And teaser (I will try to finish it soon, for now it's a test fit, and it fit perfect)
innovative rotary design, you can change the brightness, and tint, by screwing in different bulb
very nice floody beam
do you have Opple data for Tint DUV?
thanks
your pic looks so much more rose colored
than mine at DUV –0.0042:
did you lock the white balance?
no…
I have an iPhone w auto white balance…
that is why I take the photo during daylight when the CCT is about 5300K and the Tint DUV is about 0.0032
I dont know if your photo would look like mine, if you took it at the same time of day… that is why I think it is helpful to compare Opple numbers… they bypass photo WB differences.
anyway… just pointing out how much photos can vary… I do think it is great that you can lock WB… your pic looks great…
innovative rotary design, you can change the brightness, and tint, by screwing in different bulb
I didn't bother to take out the MPCB, I just cover it...
Soldering, with my FWAA CU in hand. You can tell, it's my 5 time soldering anything.
Isolation (it was sparking :D) didn't bother to heat shrink it.
parasitic drain is 256µA
moonlight mode is 30mA (and it's working)
next mode is full brightness all the time, on any ramp mode 850/1400mA (depending if with 3W, or 6W bulb)
Strobe, battery check and so on, works ok.
The only problem is with the 6W bulb, as when screwed it, it's always in moon mode, you can't turn the flashlight off (the 3W bulb works fine, you can turn it on, and off)
No bad PWM (on any mode)
A lot less innovative on my side :
Convoy M2
SFT40 emitter & OP reflector
and “tactical” forward switch (instead of the factory reverse clicky), you can see I got some trouble to get it working as I melted the first switch during soldering and had to “shave” the rubber boot because the forward switch is taller than the factory one
(but it works, and I am really happy)
I removed 1 of the 7135 driver chips in my S2+ Nichia UV flashlight to make it less bright.
Few weeks back I modified Maglite ML25LT with better led. I used Samsung LH351D, because it’s dome is somewhat diffused in hopes of cleaner beam with stock reflector. It was a real hurdle to disassemble this light. No parts that you usually find in led flashlights, but I managed to pull it through. Vastly improved light that is safe to give to kids.
Beamshot ~6m away
And another one, same 519A, 3500K. AceBeam Raider RX
Any advice on how to get this disassembled? I can’t get access to the MCPCB. Everything past the driver is a no-go for me.
if you take the pill out, the front blue bezel is rightly-loosey
Put an sft40 in my sp35t, the emitter it should have shipped with.
Much better throw with still plenty of kick in terms of lumens - without the crazy overheating of the sfn43 led.
It was quite a struggle to get my FW1A bezel off.
ts10 4000k vs fw1a pro
Swap in a tir
tir used
Nice improvement Sk9! It didn’t look like that bezel was meant to come off.
Thanks! The tir might have damaged the led dome due to no centering device, so it will stay together until the next upgrade.
I put a 5000K 219C in a Yootoo SD2 and like it so much better than the SST20. The 219C came out of an S21A that now has a 4500K 519C and definitely enjoying this new to me Nichia.
Dedomed Acebeam Pokelit AA Copper
16 votes and 14 comments so far on Reddit