T3 519A 5000K (dedome + 60 TIR) getting 3600-3750K (had to file down the TIR to fit the T3)
It's little to long like 0.1mm or so, to screw it down all the way, but there's an o-ring, so there shouldn't be a problem with water
WB 5000K, 1/60s, ISO50, f1.8
And teaser (I will try to finish it soon, for now it's a test fit, and it fit perfect)
innovative rotary design, you can change the brightness, and tint, by screwing in different bulb
very nice floody beam
do you have Opple data for Tint DUV?
thanks
your pic looks so much more rose colored
than mine at DUV –0.0042:
no…
I have an iPhone w auto white balance…
that is why I take the photo during daylight when the CCT is about 5300K and the Tint DUV is about 0.0032
I dont know if your photo would look like mine, if you took it at the same time of day… that is why I think it is helpful to compare Opple numbers… they bypass photo WB differences.
anyway… just pointing out how much photos can vary… I do think it is great that you can lock WB… your pic looks great…
innovative rotary design, you can change the brightness, and tint, by screwing in different bulb
I didn't bother to take out the MPCB, I just cover it...
Soldering, with my FWAA CU in hand. You can tell, it's my 5 time soldering anything.
Isolation (it was sparking :D) didn't bother to heat shrink it.
parasitic drain is 256µA
moonlight mode is 30mA (and it's working)
next mode is full brightness all the time, on any ramp mode 850/1400mA (depending if with 3W, or 6W bulb)
Strobe, battery check and so on, works ok.
The only problem is with the 6W bulb, as when screwed it, it's always in moon mode, you can't turn the flashlight off (the 3W bulb works fine, you can turn it on, and off)
No bad PWM (on any mode)
A lot less innovative on my side :
Convoy M2
SFT40 emitter & OP reflector
and “tactical” forward switch (instead of the factory reverse clicky), you can see I got some trouble to get it working as I melted the first switch during soldering and had to “shave” the rubber boot because the forward switch is taller than the factory one
(but it works, and I am really happy)
I removed 1 of the 7135 driver chips in my S2+ Nichia UV flashlight to make it less bright.
Few weeks back I modified Maglite ML25LT with better led. I used Samsung LH351D, because it’s dome is somewhat diffused in hopes of cleaner beam with stock reflector. It was a real hurdle to disassemble this light. No parts that you usually find in led flashlights, but I managed to pull it through. Vastly improved light that is safe to give to kids.
Beamshot ~6m away
Any advice on how to get this disassembled? I can’t get access to the MCPCB. Everything past the driver is a no-go for me.
if you take the pill out, the front blue bezel is rightly-loosey
Put an sft40 in my sp35t, the emitter it should have shipped with.
Much better throw with still plenty of kick in terms of lumens - without the crazy overheating of the sfn43 led.
It was quite a struggle to get my FW1A bezel off.
ts10 4000k vs fw1a pro
Swap in a tir
tir used
Nice improvement Sk9! It didn’t look like that bezel was meant to come off. 
Thanks! The tir might have damaged the led dome due to no centering device, so it will stay together until the next upgrade.
I put a 5000K 219C in a Yootoo SD2 and like it so much better than the SST20. The 219C came out of an S21A that now has a 4500K 519C and definitely enjoying this new to me Nichia.
Dedomed Acebeam Pokelit AA Copper
I’d ordered some 519a’s to see what the hype was about, they arrived a few days ago.
I somehow got the order wrong and ordered 16mm mpcb LEDs rather than 20mm; but this provided good opportunity to upgrade an older Convoy S9 I have, which is one of the lower current versions (Simon lists 1400ma as an option, so I assume this is the “original”). Simple swap of the 5000K XML with a 4000K 519a.
Thought I had a 3535 centering gasket in the parts box but only 5050 footprint ones, I left the stock one on for now, it’s not perfect.
I think I’ve gone from 4 modes to 3 modes somehow, maybe I fried something or changed a setting or mis-remember 4 mode… 
Edit to add: this has turned into a typical gravelmonkey mod… I suspect the LED wires are shorting or at risk of shorting on the mpcb as I managed to melt the cheap insulation. So I pulled the driver out (quite straightforward, retaining ring, spring washer, lever the microusb casing down and the driver pops out. The wires are actually longer than I anticipated so I put it back together, the soldering irons been put away for now though…
Second edit: did some trouble shooting and the S9 is still 3-mode, so… Maybe I’m misremembering the 4 modes. On the upside, I de-domed the 4000K and the beam looks great.
Also got hold of my Emisar D1S, I think stock was XPL Hi, which I’d swapped in a ?SST20 a few years ago. Reflowed a 5700K 519a on a alu star then dedomed. Unfortunately the 519a was blue on the highest brightness, so I guess the 519a can’t take the current. Swapped the ?SST20 back in.
The dedomed 519a was put to use in my Xeno G42, Xeno’s answer to the C8, it’s a bit vintage by today’s standards but the stainless bezel and build quality make it one of my favourite lights. Drive current is only 2A. I’d previously had a slightly greenish 4000K SST20 in it. I don’t have a luxmeter so can’t say if there’s any real improvement on lumens or throw, but the tint is improved.
I've had those kind of mods! Thank goodness for long leads for do-overs. I've found 1mm of stripped wire and tinned wire helps. An S21A is easier for me than an S2 but kapton tape should stop the shorting with the reflector... not a lot of space between it and the pill.
Anyway, could you tell me how you dedomed the 519A... slicing, plucking?