As requested, 3 XM-L Driver/Emitter module DIY

Hi, does anybody know a free or shareware program for 3d design?

zeremefico,

Google Sketchup is actually not horrible for the cost of nothing…
http://sketchup.google.com/download/

If you design your module with that, it is great for me!
Nice project PilotPTK :wink:

Sorry I haven’t quite been keeping up with this thread, but where are things at? Pilot, you have some already produced (fully assembled), are we just waiting to see what hosts will work well for it?

In terms of torches, yes - I still haven’t found a great host for it yet. A lot of people are inquiring about using these for non-torch applications though (bike-lights, off-road lights, you name it lights). I have some modules available right now for anyone who wants one - I haven’t announced major/general availability just yet because I’m still waiting for my shipment of U2 LEDs, and I don’t plan on running the big production run until I have everything (it costs big bucks to run on a U.S. production line for half a day).

Cool White T6 and Neutral T5 modules are available for purchase right now - I don’t have a lot of them though.

PPtk

There was discussion in this thread about using this module with a D Maglite. After seeing this thread (3D Magmule with triple Nichia 219s), I think it’s very feasible to fit this module and a heatsink into the top end of the Maglite with a bit of boring (just above the switch) The stock head could then be milled down, or a head like the one cut on the lathe in that thread could be used to hold the module and optics in place. If the momentary configuration is desired (I would want that), the module could be hard-wired and the stock switch could be converted to momentary action for mode changing (or the stock switch could just be replaced entirely). Along with cutting down the battery tube and either using 3 x 14500’s or have it bored for 3 x 18650’s, this could be a pretty compact powerhouse.

PPtk: Quick question - can the momentary switch be wired to pull up (to positive) instead of pull down (to negative)? That way the stock switch converted to momentary could work as-is.

Unfortunately, no. The switch must be wired between the Momentary Contact Input and Ground. It is pulled up on the circuit board, and the switch pulls it low to toggle an input. Pulling the Momentary Contact Input to Battery+ would be very bad, in fact.

PPtk

I want three with U2 binned XMLs. What is the price of one of these?

How much time is consumed in completing this extraordinary project?..I would be definitely learning something from you for sure !!! What are the prices?

My LED lights

Welcome to the site, tomloew!

Hi simplec6,
Cool white U2 Flux 1C Tint: $93.00 plus shipping

Since you’re in the U.S. - Priority Mail would be about 6 bucks for all three.

Simple answer? Far too much :slight_smile:
Pricing Here: As requested, 3 XM-L Driver/Emitter module DIY

Ok, are the production version ready to ship just yet or are only the prototype boards finished so far?

Sorry I missed the price on the first page, maybe try getting that into the Original Post?

Sorry if this was discussed, but how hard or easy is this: “Max output: 3.2Amps (up to 5Amps with one resistor change)”? Would you change the resistor if we request?

I do have production versions ready, but I haven’t done a ‘big’ run of them (which is why I haven’t really advertised them as available very heavily). The reason is that I’m still waiting on the U2 Emitters that I ordered, and I want to run a big batch of Cool U2, Cool T6 and Neutral T5 all at once since more of the production cost is setup time than actual run time.

If you’re interested in a Neutral T5 or Cool T6, I have a few available.

PPtk

Yes, I’ll be happy to make the change - although I don’t necessarily recommend it. 5 Amps * 3 Emitters gives about 52.5 Watts of heat. You had better be putting this module in an enclosure made of about 5 pounds of copper if you hope to control that kind of heat.

If you’re only going to use it for a short “Turbo Mode”, it will be fine. But, don’t plan on long run times, unless, like I say, you have one heck of an enclosure/host.

PPtk

Why do you want or need 5A? It will produce far too much heat, you will need forced cooling unless its mounted to a HUGE heat sink.
The hotter an LED gets, the less lumens they give out. So running hot at 5A may produce the same output as seen at 3A, with the bonus of a smaller housing. Also, look at www.budgetlightforum.com/node/2603 , a sticky in this section of the forum.
You can see the output tails off after 4.4A... Now look at the size of his heatsink, and he's only got one LED...
Your eyes won't even notice the extra 10% in output. Why not try 4 XMLs run at 3A? You'd get more light and they will be a whole lot more efficient.
Or two triple boards run at 2A. You'd get about 4100 lm at 36W. One triple run at 5A gives out about 2900 lm at 45W.
I don't know what your set up is and I'm definitely not trying to knock you down, just though I'd put some info down for ya. I've made some silly lights and run them at huge currents only to find more LEDs at a lower current is brighter and kinder on my batteries!

Alright, so I put together a plan for a Maglite host.

–2D Mag
Custom milled bezel (replaces the stock head and threads on to hold the module in place, like the one shown here 3D Magmule with triple Nichia 219s)
-Custom heatsink that rests on top of the switch housing and rises just outside the mag body for the module to mount to
–3 x 26500 IMR cells

Cost to put all of this together will be around $160. Way more expensive than I wanted, but it will be a nice light :slight_smile:

Did PCC agree to make you one?

Still talking to him about it, nothing set yet.