Anduril ... 2?

This might be a silly question, but which version of Anduril 2 does the KR4 W2 with Boost driver use?

noctigon-kr4-12v I suppose.

I installed “anduril.2022-10-21.noctigon-kr4-nofet.hex” on my KR4 with Nichia E21A leds and I noticed something weird when RGB aux leds are configured to display voltage.

The issue is that RGB leds change colors or turns off every 8 seconds on both high or low output mode. (If I set the output to blink, then it does not have the problem.)
Case 1. on 3.9V cell, the light displays blue and 8 seconds later it turns off. Another 8s later, it displays blue. It continues.
Case 2. on 4.1V cell, it displays pink, 8s later blue, 8s later off, 8s later back to pink and goes on.
Case 3. on 3.8V cell, it display cyan. It does not change colors. The leds are constantly on.
Case 4. on 3.1V cell, it displays red. Same thing as Case 3.

I had similar issue with D1v2 on RGB switch leds changing colors every 8 seconds in some voltage levels. On my D1v2 with 4.1V battery, the RGB switch leds display pink and green every 8 seconds.

Is this a bug? Does 8 seconds mean something? Is this done intentionally perhaps to save battery? Do RGB leds switch colors only for high voltage range above 3.9V?

If I configure the RGB leds to display a single color then it does not turn off or change colors. So, I think it has to do with how voltage is displayed.

My D4V2 with “anduril.2021-12-13.emisar-d4v2-219.hex” does not have this problem.

This problem as been reported a few times yeah, at first I thought it was a T1616 specific issue since it’s very common on my drivers and I didn’t see other reports, but since then there are reports of this issue on other drivers so I guess it’s because this bug appeared in a somewhat recent revision

Thank you for confirming the issue. I did additional tests with my KR4 and it seems that switching colors only happens when voltage is above 3.8V. I will see if using last year’s firmware helps.

It varies between drivers, like switching between orange and white (RGB all ON), red and off, constant red after display the right color… etc, it’s quite random.

Ah, yes, that would make sense. Thanks!

I admit I don’t have the level of understanding some of you guys do. I just know from the tests I’ve seen here that the 519A can handle 6 amps. So it seems 3 or 4 of them could be FET driven in parallel without too much worry. I guess a really high drain cell could be too much, but I was thinking a 10A or 15A cell.

I see the light in question was the D4SV2, for some reason I guess I was thinking of the normal D4V2 with an 18650 rather than the 26650.

I reflashed using “anduril.2021-12-13.noctigon-kr4-nofet.hex”, but the problem of “”switching RGB aux leds in voltage mode”:https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/62656/1301” is still there. However, I noticed an interesting behavior during the process.

The RGB leds begins to switch when I set hybrid memory. Using automatic memory (10H>Item1>click) or manual memory (10H>Item2>No click) will not make the rgb leds to switch every 8 seconds.

I have the same aux LED blinking phenomenon with a Noctigon K1. Aux LEDs keep switching on and off about every 7.5 seconds ongoingly - only when the flashlight is OFF, and only when aux LEDs are in “constantly on” mode (not when blinking) - and only when aux LEDs are in voltage mode. I have this blinking only if manual memory is active. In automatic memory mode the blinking does not occur. Did not check Hybrid memory mode.

EDIT - the light is new, I have had it for a few days only. Hank shipped it in January 2023, with a 2021 hex. I updated it to anduril.2022-10-21.noctigon-k1-sbt90.hex. Not sure whether the effect happened with the older hex as well. Could check that as I saved the original hex file.

Wow they fixed the broken tarball download, now we can download the tarball from launchpad : ~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/anduril2 : revision 654

I thought it would stay broken forever after so long.

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Any plans for having a turbo style that allows turbo from off? Right now you can only get ceiling from off (double-click). A workaround is to set ceiling to 150 and disable turbo.

In Advanced UI, you can Turbo from off using 2H.

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Correct, 2H from off does go to turbo, but 2C does not (unless ceiling = 150). Simple UI can also 2H to turbo from off (if it has an A2 version using turbo style config).

Anduril is open source code you can edit and compile your own Anduril UI.

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Yes, and I have done that. For example, I turned an SC31Pro into a super muggle mode. Simple mode: disabled lockout, 1-5 flashes for battery check, proper 2C turbo from off, etc.

@ToyKeeper Any plans to move the repo to git? Would be a lot easier to work with since bazaar seems somewhat obsolete (or long surpassed by git).

Yeah, actually. I’ve been avoiding it for ages because I don’t like git (especially how badly it handles branches and merges), but it seems like it needs to happen. So it’s on the list to do relatively soon.

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Any idea what build target should be used for the Wurrkos FC13? Version check shows 202207250715. The MODELS file doesn’t have that number listed. My guess would be the D4V2 build (FET+1, RGB aux), but I’d like to be sure.

Nope, that’s even for a different microcontroller. You need a build for an ATtiny 1616. The official build is based on patches by @gchart.

https://code.launchpad.net/~gabe/flashlight-firmware/anduril2

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Thank you so much! I don’t know how I missed that.

Thanks for the link, too!

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