I removed 1 of the 7135 driver chips in my S2+ Nichia UV flashlight to make it less bright.
Few weeks back I modified Maglite ML25LT with better led. I used Samsung LH351D, because it’s dome is somewhat diffused in hopes of cleaner beam with stock reflector. It was a real hurdle to disassemble this light. No parts that you usually find in led flashlights, but I managed to pull it through. Vastly improved light that is safe to give to kids.
Beamshot ~6m away
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Any advice on how to get this disassembled? I can’t get access to the MCPCB. Everything past the driver is a no-go for me.
if you take the pill out, the front blue bezel is rightly-loosey
Put an sft40 in my sp35t, the emitter it should have shipped with.
Much better throw with still plenty of kick in terms of lumens - without the crazy overheating of the sfn43 led.
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It was quite a struggle to get my FW1A bezel off.
ts10 4000k vs fw1a pro
Swap in a tir
tir used
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Nice improvement Sk9! It didn’t look like that bezel was meant to come off. 
Thanks! The tir might have damaged the led dome due to no centering device, so it will stay together until the next upgrade.
I put a 5000K 219C in a Yootoo SD2 and like it so much better than the SST20. The 219C came out of an S21A that now has a 4500K 519C and definitely enjoying this new to me Nichia.
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Dedomed Acebeam Pokelit AA Copper
I’d ordered some 519a’s to see what the hype was about, they arrived a few days ago.
I somehow got the order wrong and ordered 16mm mpcb LEDs rather than 20mm; but this provided good opportunity to upgrade an older Convoy S9 I have, which is one of the lower current versions (Simon lists 1400ma as an option, so I assume this is the “original”). Simple swap of the 5000K XML with a 4000K 519a.
Thought I had a 3535 centering gasket in the parts box but only 5050 footprint ones, I left the stock one on for now, it’s not perfect.
I think I’ve gone from 4 modes to 3 modes somehow, maybe I fried something or changed a setting or mis-remember 4 mode… 
Edit to add: this has turned into a typical gravelmonkey mod… I suspect the LED wires are shorting or at risk of shorting on the mpcb as I managed to melt the cheap insulation. So I pulled the driver out (quite straightforward, retaining ring, spring washer, lever the microusb casing down and the driver pops out. The wires are actually longer than I anticipated so I put it back together, the soldering irons been put away for now though…
Second edit: did some trouble shooting and the S9 is still 3-mode, so… Maybe I’m misremembering the 4 modes. On the upside, I de-domed the 4000K and the beam looks great.
Also got hold of my Emisar D1S, I think stock was XPL Hi, which I’d swapped in a ?SST20 a few years ago. Reflowed a 5700K 519a on a alu star then dedomed. Unfortunately the 519a was blue on the highest brightness, so I guess the 519a can’t take the current. Swapped the ?SST20 back in.
The dedomed 519a was put to use in my Xeno G42, Xeno’s answer to the C8, it’s a bit vintage by today’s standards but the stainless bezel and build quality make it one of my favourite lights. Drive current is only 2A. I’d previously had a slightly greenish 4000K SST20 in it. I don’t have a luxmeter so can’t say if there’s any real improvement on lumens or throw, but the tint is improved.
I've had those kind of mods! Thank goodness for long leads for do-overs. I've found 1mm of stripped wire and tinned wire helps. An S21A is easier for me than an S2 but kapton tape should stop the shorting with the reflector... not a lot of space between it and the pill.
Anyway, could you tell me how you dedomed the 519A... slicing, plucking?
I got 3 prepped and packed waiting for parts. I hate waiting for parts!!!
I’d often read it was very easy, but not any details of the process. Having never dedomed anything before I just gave it a go- using tweezers I gently squeezed the dome around the base then very gently and slowly went around trying to prise it up, eventually one side lifted and I very slowly peeled the dome off.
Today I decided to see if I could do anything with my Sofrin SC32. I really like the light overall but the led/optic combo just didn't do it for me. What I ended up with was a triple setup from the FWAA series and a few random 219b leds as proof of concept. Now that I know it works I have my first 219b SW45K coming from Hank.
Everyone should have at least one 4500K 219B flashlight. 
But not a high D240 bin like from KD since they don’t have any rosiness from my experience: NICHIA 219BT NEUTRAL WHITE 4500K CRI90 SMD 3535 LED
I’ve been slowly trying and acquiring all the different 519A available so I figured I might as well try the 219b while I was at it.
s2+ conversion, from metal to rubber button
I am waiting on a tan s2+ host from Richard and I’m planning on doing the same thing. This will be my first s2+ and I am personally not a fan of the metal switch on my z1.
Did you just drill out the tail cap, or did you use a different method? I measured my rubber button at about 5/8” and unfortunately I don’t have any drills bigger than 1/2”. I have been wanting a set of deming drills for a while.
I enlarged the hole 16 mm with this
and with the dremel I enlarged the inner recess for the rubber button