Hi Terry, IMHO this light is all about the twelve (!!) Nichia 519a’s and I appreciate Wurkkos’s decision to pay attention to hobbyists in the BLF community. The Nichia LED makes the light unique and the incredibly bright and beautiful beam something to behold. There’s nothing quite like TS32 on the market, truly an “enthusiast’s dream”.
Combining it with the cool/efficient and very throwy SFT40 for long central beam distance is another fantastic decision. With the handle off the TS32 fits jacket pocket or loose-pant pocket easily and becomes perfect for my daily walk.
Wurkkos definitely on a roll. Keep up the good work.
I got mine today from Amazon. Looks good. I am just waiting for the sun to go down to play with it a bit. Though, TURBO flood is impressive even in daylight.
Does anyone know of a diffuser that would fit the TS32?
I think the bezel is about 62mm OD.
I have searched a bit, but have not found anything yet.
This is a cross post, but thought it might be more likely to be seen here…
Beamshot of the SFT40 LED of Wurkkos TS32 vs same LED in Sofirn IF22a w/ TIR optic. Both shots at same exposure and WB. Nothing surprising, similar beam profile: intense small hotspot, not much spill.
Because the twelve Nichia 519a LED’s get hot quickly and stepdown, combining them with the SFT40, a cool, efficient bright and throwy LED, is an ingenious idea that could only came from hobbyists. Specifically BLF hobbyists.
I haven’t measured TS32 yet but I got 600m plus for Sofirn IF22a. It’s looking good.
I added to the post above a beamshot of my M21E with GT-FC40 5500k to compare it with the SFT40 led that forms the central beam of TS32.
SFT40 (1700 lm in Sofirn IF22a measured w/ Texas Ace lumen tube) actually has less output than GT-FC40 (2200 lm), but what’s there is concentrated into an intensely bright central hotspot. This is why it is a good combination with the twelve 519a’s and their floody beam.
GT-FC40 in M21E host doesn’t concentrate/focus all output into an intense hotspot, instead spreads (so to speak) into a more even beam with medium strength hotspot and medium spill.
Currently on wurkkos.com it comes out to US$99 with batteries and handle, though you’d have to wait for shipping from China. But given amazon’s price is close to 1.5x that even with a discount, it’s probably worth it.
@LOTL & epv, there’s a huge sale for TS32 on Amazon: 20% off by clicking the “coupon” square, and then on checkout add the code T7NAHM8M for another 20% off. AFAIK this should be the lowest price you could get for this light currently, and extra nice because it’s from US Amazon with prime shipping and privilege.
I just got one on Amazon - with the amazon 20% discount plus the additional 20% from the code (T7NAHM8M) in this thread it’s about the same as on Wurkkos’s site. It was $108 with batteries and handle for me.
@ Zoulas: Add handle (around $3) and batteries (around 13) = 99.99 same as Amazon, and no Amazon “privilege”. I think you would like to have that handle in case (it’s so inexpensive), and the 3 Wurkkos batteries are at reasonable price. Lower current draw than 40T but higher capacity so I kinda like them.
Btw, someone might have noticed all the other budget super-lights I listed in title use Chinese LED’s, and one of them is here the Haikelite HK05. If it is any indication I would reiterate what I mentioned earlier, that when it comes to beam color and Duv, it appears NONE will come close to the wonderful beam of Wurkkos’s 519a, especially at Turbo level.
Some of them do have higher output and throw, but of course none has Nichia, and the Wurkkos again stands out in that the 12 Nichia 519a’s form an incredible 519a floody beam that I think any hobbyist should see once in his life (JK).
First mod already: I removed the handle and put the screw back with a thick rubber washer (from plumbing stuffs) underneath. The screw does NOT go in all the way so some kind of washer is needed. Washer is cone shape and looks even somewhat OEM. The screw protrusion now acts as an anti-roll device so the heavy light doesn’t roll off the table and causes me pain.
The protruded rubber buttons are not my favorite, a little “mushy.” I much prefer for example the flat rubber button of Wurkkos TS30 and Sofirn IF25a.
The handle seems to be on the worst side of the available 3 sides, but I was going to remove it regardless. The way I use it (519a: sub Turbo mostly with occasional Turbo burst) the light doesn’t get hot. Without handle it fits jacket pocket easily.
TS32 is actually not too big compared to Haikelite HK05 in picture below.
Finally got to open my AZ -sourced TS32 today from under the Christmas tree. Charged cells internally. Checked out all 4.19. Light looks good, functions as advertised. Flood is really a Great Wall of light. Very pleased.
Yeah I agreed, what a nice Christmas self gift . I will always remember that first moment I turned T32 on at full blast. Oh I surely am not in Kansas anymore!
I had observed previously the 519a 4500k’s Duv drops with heat, in 519a more than 219b for example. It appears the same thing is going on here with 519a 5000k. I noted on a post above that Turbo’s beam color is most beautiful and clearly better (less green) than the dimmer setting. I thought it was output related but now I am thinking heat also a factor.
By continuously screen capturing Opple’s Duv (25 times total), I could follow Duv behavior of 519a 5000k in the 1 minute after a Turbo start:
At start of Turbo: –0.0021
As the light heats up (and stepdown starts), Duv becomes more negative rapidly, peaking at –0.0051 at 40 seconds. Output roughly 70% of Turbo.
With stepdowns, light becomes dimmer and temp cools, and Duv now turning towards positive, hitting 0.0000 at 1 min
I ended the test when light becomes very dimm and output very roughly 10% of Turbo, at 1 min 6 second Duv is 0.0002.
Yeah this is what I did on Christmas day. I have empty nest and forgiving wife. But really one of the most fun flashlight things I’ve done. IMHO the finding here, pending further amateur home testing when I have time, is that TS32 likes heat and it likes higher output, and the most beautiful beam (most negative Duv) is 40 seconds after a Turbo start. Time yourself and enjoy that beam at 40 seconds if you’re interested. :partying_face: :+1:
Yes, I am not real fond of the handle either. It is just too small. I have actually dropped the light trying to use it with gloves. Fortunately it was on to a padded carpet so no dmage done.
I know that the handle design is dictated by the size of the light and probably the requirement that the light will tail stand with the handle mounted. I also agree that they picked the worst position for the handle.
OTH, I do appreciate having something when the light is run on turbo. It definitely gets hot fast.
I may do something like you did Cannga. Just remove it. I too very rarely run any of my lights on Turbo. So I could get along without the handle.
Other than that I really like the light. I have been using it nightly for dog walks. But, after the novelty wears off, I am sure I will go back to a smaller light.
I think the real long term usefulness of the TS32 might be with a diffuser on low settings for room lighting. But it is an impressive and fun toy!
The tint shift with heat is normal for almost all emitters. Current as well, but of course they are closely related and the electrical inefficiencies compound that, too. If you look at the data sheets for various brands/models you can get an idea of what to expect (from bare emitters). Hopefully this shows up legibly but here’s the page for the R9080 5700K. They’ve got one for forward current and one for the junction temperature (where the base of the emitter meets the mcpcb, not the measured temp in the head or driver). For the 519A the effects on the lower temp models are somewhat drastically different than shown here for the 5700K (they only provide 3000 and 5700 on this one). Not all emitters have such a huge difference between temps or sometimes just in the shift itself.
@Correllux that’s a great and helpful find - thanks. The magnitude and direction of Duv change seems to correlate well to what I see so far. At least, it seems like my amateur home test is in the ball park.
If I understand the diagram correctly, and I don’t know exact current nor temp in my light, plus need to check calculation again (lol many if’s) but from approximating x,y coordinates of the 2 graphs:
Forward current and Duv
100 mA: Duv 0.0013 CCT 5431 (x=.3340, y=3450)
2400 mA: Duv 0.0060 0.0019 CCT 5743 (x=.3270, y=.3400) Duv becomes more negative by 47 points as forward current increases (vs my observed 48 points swing that I noted here) EDIT: I made a mistake calculated above part. Duv actually stays about the same.
Temp and Duv
25° C Duv 0.0020 CCT 5650 (x=.3290,y=.3420)
85° C Duv –0.0022 CCT 5706 (x=.3280, y=.3330)
Duv becomes more negative by 42 points as heat increases (vs my observed 30 points swing that I noted here )
There’s nothing quite like TS32 on the market, truly an “enthusiast’s dream”.
. I will always remember that first moment I turned T32 on at full blast. Oh I surely am not in Kansas anymore!