First mod already: I removed the handle and put the screw back with a thick rubber washer (from plumbing stuffs) underneath. The screw does NOT go in all the way so some kind of washer is needed. Washer is cone shape and looks even somewhat OEM. The screw protrusion now acts as an anti-roll device so the heavy light doesn’t roll off the table and causes me pain.
The protruded rubber buttons are not my favorite, a little “mushy.” I much prefer for example the flat rubber button of Wurkkos TS30 and Sofirn IF25a.
The handle seems to be on the worst side of the available 3 sides, but I was going to remove it regardless. The way I use it (519a: sub Turbo mostly with occasional Turbo burst) the light doesn’t get hot. Without handle it fits jacket pocket easily.
TS32 is actually not too big compared to Haikelite HK05 in picture below.
Finally got to open my AZ -sourced TS32 today from under the Christmas tree. Charged cells internally. Checked out all 4.19. Light looks good, functions as advertised. Flood is really a Great Wall of light. Very pleased.
Yeah I agreed, what a nice Christmas self gift . I will always remember that first moment I turned T32 on at full blast. Oh I surely am not in Kansas anymore!
I had observed previously the 519a 4500k’s Duv drops with heat, in 519a more than 219b for example. It appears the same thing is going on here with 519a 5000k. I noted on a post above that Turbo’s beam color is most beautiful and clearly better (less green) than the dimmer setting. I thought it was output related but now I am thinking heat also a factor.
By continuously screen capturing Opple’s Duv (25 times total), I could follow Duv behavior of 519a 5000k in the 1 minute after a Turbo start:
At start of Turbo: –0.0021
As the light heats up (and stepdown starts), Duv becomes more negative rapidly, peaking at –0.0051 at 40 seconds. Output roughly 70% of Turbo.
With stepdowns, light becomes dimmer and temp cools, and Duv now turning towards positive, hitting 0.0000 at 1 min
I ended the test when light becomes very dimm and output very roughly 10% of Turbo, at 1 min 6 second Duv is 0.0002.
Yeah this is what I did on Christmas day. I have empty nest and forgiving wife. But really one of the most fun flashlight things I’ve done. IMHO the finding here, pending further amateur home testing when I have time, is that TS32 likes heat and it likes higher output, and the most beautiful beam (most negative Duv) is 40 seconds after a Turbo start. Time yourself and enjoy that beam at 40 seconds if you’re interested. :partying_face: :+1:
Yes, I am not real fond of the handle either. It is just too small. I have actually dropped the light trying to use it with gloves. Fortunately it was on to a padded carpet so no dmage done.
I know that the handle design is dictated by the size of the light and probably the requirement that the light will tail stand with the handle mounted. I also agree that they picked the worst position for the handle.
OTH, I do appreciate having something when the light is run on turbo. It definitely gets hot fast.
I may do something like you did Cannga. Just remove it. I too very rarely run any of my lights on Turbo. So I could get along without the handle.
Other than that I really like the light. I have been using it nightly for dog walks. But, after the novelty wears off, I am sure I will go back to a smaller light.
I think the real long term usefulness of the TS32 might be with a diffuser on low settings for room lighting. But it is an impressive and fun toy!
The tint shift with heat is normal for almost all emitters. Current as well, but of course they are closely related and the electrical inefficiencies compound that, too. If you look at the data sheets for various brands/models you can get an idea of what to expect (from bare emitters). Hopefully this shows up legibly but here’s the page for the R9080 5700K. They’ve got one for forward current and one for the junction temperature (where the base of the emitter meets the mcpcb, not the measured temp in the head or driver). For the 519A the effects on the lower temp models are somewhat drastically different than shown here for the 5700K (they only provide 3000 and 5700 on this one). Not all emitters have such a huge difference between temps or sometimes just in the shift itself.
@Correllux that’s a great and helpful find - thanks. The magnitude and direction of Duv change seems to correlate well to what I see so far. At least, it seems like my amateur home test is in the ball park.
If I understand the diagram correctly, and I don’t know exact current nor temp in my light, plus need to check calculation again (lol many if’s) but from approximating x,y coordinates of the 2 graphs:
Forward current and Duv
100 mA: Duv 0.0013 CCT 5431 (x=.3340, y=3450)
2400 mA: Duv 0.0060 0.0019 CCT 5743 (x=.3270, y=.3400) Duv becomes more negative by 47 points as forward current increases (vs my observed 48 points swing that I noted here) EDIT: I made a mistake calculated above part. Duv actually stays about the same.
Temp and Duv
25° C Duv 0.0020 CCT 5650 (x=.3290,y=.3420)
85° C Duv –0.0022 CCT 5706 (x=.3280, y=.3330)
Duv becomes more negative by 42 points as heat increases (vs my observed 30 points swing that I noted here )
Yep. And this is just helpful so that we know general behavior - and that some emitters may look drastically different in different modes vs. others (like the way the SST20 tends to shift a whole lot for most bins and the standard CRI versions). It’s not like we’re needing to be exact to engineer a circuit or measure really accurately, so with most emitters the data sheets almost tell us everything we need to know, save for how much overcurrent they can handle and where they start to get angry.
Remember those X/Y coordinates are all relative to the BBL, too, so 20 points in one temp range won’t be the same difference as 20 points on a different temp emitter. And too (sorry) that the Opple is just never going to give all the data from its sensor (it can’t), and we don’t really know what the software is fudging with the data it does receive, just some of the quirks we see in the results (such as the oddball warm temp favoritism in CRI, etc….stuff outside the expected range of error/accuracy for the components and that is unaffected by how carefully we try to standardize the conditions).
The lights will never ever reach the junction temperature of the emitter (thank goodness). But that factor is why back in the day some smart people started to design and get manufactured the nice DTP boards we use today, which is great since many emitters also have lower thermal resistance now as they evolved over time. Switching to hosts with integrated shelves for the board to sit on also helped a ton compared to pills, so we can start to dissipate heat a lot better than we used to, and sometimes enjoy less tint shift while the light is in use unless we’re really overdriving them and trying to maintain that output/heat saturation.
All of those if’s, and ya change one and it affects one or three others. Complex little alphabet soup. And that’s just bare emitters! lol The science and physics of Light is just fascinating really…way more to it than I would have ever guessed…and human eyes to boot.
Now check out the same info for the R9080 3000K emitter. Makes a hard turn for Albuquerque compared to the 5700K.
They never specify bins for these, but binning does also often matter a lot. Often people complain about something and aren’t aware of binning or that they may have gotten a less-prime bin (LH351D seems to be a popular opinion victim of that, maybe). For these 519A emitters the bins may not make as much different but they do have several bins per temperature as well as I think 8 chromacity groups within that binning. What we get and see just depends on who bought what.
I did my own approximation. I cut the graph where x and y axis has 4 grids (0.01 times four). I scaled the 4x4 grid to 400x400 pixels (notice x axis and y axis are scaled differently), so that each pixel would equal to 0.0001.
100mA is located 235, 150 from the top left. So, I get 0.31+0.0235=0.3335 for X, 0.36-0.0150=0.3450 for Y
2400mA is located 163, 202. 0.31+0.0163=0.3263 for X, 0.36-0.0202=0.3398 for Y
Plugging in the numbers in www.waveformlighting.com for duv and CCT, I get:
100mA, CIE x: 0.3335, CIE y: 0.3450, DUV: 0.0016, CCT: 5453
2400mA, CIE x: 0.3263 , CIE y: 0.3398 , DUV: 0.0022, CCT: 5776
@limsup good catch - thanks. Did you have a chance to check what I got for temp?
If we assume 5000k behaves similar to 5700k, then this means the temp factor alone would be an explanation for why TS32 looks so green with lower output. At least, this was my observation for the 519a 4500k (I sat and watched y drops with time).
The way that temp curve from Correllux drops straight down the y axis is impressive/interesting and a sure indication of temp causing Duv drops, I think.
I’ve read about LED being green at lower output and less so at higher output from other reviewers. TS32 is probably the most obvious change that I’ve seen, green at lower output and beautiful at Turbo.
I just checked the first one. The reason I checked it was because the numbers did not look right. You noted higher CCT for lower current, which I thought was odd. After checking the numbers myself, it was apparent that you mistakenly flipped the numbers around.
I observe that too that in lower output the light appears more green and looks nicer at higher output. I notice it on my TS25 (Nichia 519A 5000K) and notice it more on SP10 (Samsung LH351D 5000K). However, my measurements are somewhat inconsistent with what I see. I measured DUV for 7 stepped output on my TS25 and they clearly have upward trend along the output levels. That is, higher the output higher the DUV. DUV for 3/7 (about 10lm) output was –0.0017 where as 0.0010 for 7/7 output (about 900lm). Also, the shifts in CCT along the output levels were quite large. Lowest was 4490 and highest was 4879 (max difference 389). I think DUV comparisons do not give consistent results with what I see when CCT changes a lot.
At first, I thought higher DUV for higher output applies to all 519A leds, but I was wrong. I recently reflowed 519A on my TINI2 with the leds taken from my broken TS25. I checked DUV across different output levels (15lm to 500lm), and they pretty much stayed around –0.0038. The shifts in CCT across output were WAY smaller compared to TS25 (4824 to 4984, max difference 160). So, I think the way leds are driven (and possibly different optics) matters a lot. It may also have to do with the number of leds. There are 2 leds on TINI2 and 4 on TS25.
I will have to investigate it more. What I can say for certain so far is that CCT tend to go higher as output increases.
@limsup I was just too happy to find (wrong) numbers that support my hypothesis and committed an “investigator”’s no no.
But as usual I’ve learned more from a mistake than a success (don’t we all). And that is looking at Duv curve and predicting what is happening.
I was confident of a Duv drop with higher forward current, from the curve dropping downward (lower y coordinate - a classic sign of more negative Duv) at 2400 mA. But what I didn’t foresee is the BBL curve also curves downward as it moves left. And since Duv is relative to the BBL curve (Correllux mentioned this), Duv values stay the same for both low and high forward currents. I hope I didn’t lose everyone here. I am sure I did lol.
Winter time is great for evening walks; it gets dark so early that every night I get to play with lights. This evening it’s the latest toys pictured below: Wurkkos TS32 and Haikelite HK05.
Flashlights has become such a fun hobby for me because there are nuances and characteristics that make each light special. No one light is completely best/better in every aspect. My Haikelite is the 5000k version, and the beam color reminds me of one of my ex, Thrunite T2 w/ Cree XHP70.2 NW. Which is to say it’s green. This may sound bad, but as long as you don’t do white wall hunting, it’s actually ok. Clocking in at 20,000 lm, the beam has an even spread, with a largish hotspot and bright spill, and excellent throw (will measure later). And yes OMG it’s bright, brightest in my collection so far, and that alone, is a LOT of fun.
What the TS32 got that Haikelite hasn’t, is the 12 high CRI Nichia 519a 5000k. I LOVE the 519a 5000k beam color, personally a lot more than my 519a 4500k (a little too yellow for my taste). As expected, there is absolutely no comparison between color rendering of Haikelite vs Wurkkos, with Wurkkos the clear winner. The beam of TS32 of course has two distinct parts, SFT40’s throw with small hotspot, and the floody 519a “wall of light” that I cannot get enough of. Haikelite is special, but TS32 is more special , and likely MOST special in this group even thought it has less brightness. (When 14,000 lm is quote unquote “less bright”, you know how crazy this group of lights is.) . The Amazon sale for TS32 ends in a few days I think, in case you’re interested.
The one I got on the amazon sale just showed up. I’m pretty pleased with it! The giant amount of light from the twelve 519As is spectacular.
On flood, i measure 50mA for “moon” then 105mA - 825mA - 2.5A - 4.5A and who knows for turbo, I don’t have a power supply that can put out that much current but it shuts my 10A supply right down instantly.
on spot, i measure 20mA - 160mA - 610mA - 1.8A and that’s it. Turbo is also out of range for my measuring setup.
ramped brightness seems to go from moon/eco through to turbo without reserving extra for actual turbo, but I think that’s how it’s supposed to work.
The current draws for mine don’t really bear any resemblance to what’s mentioned in reviews, particularly with the flood “moon” setting drawing nearly twice the current as the lowest spot setting, but whatever, it’s all still pretty good.
UPDATE: It’s also not even faintly water resistant. I ran it under cold water in the sink for a few minutes and it turned itself on, the buttons wouldn’t respond at all, and on opening it I was able to pour water out of the battery compartment. It no longer works at all. Going to probably return this one.
Ouch. Another reminder to not water test these lights.
In a way this thread could be labeled “Invasion of the High Output Chinese Led’s.” The table from Nightwatch below lists various Chinese LED’s and serves as a road map of what I hope to see. Of note at this point these LEDS seem more commonly used in flashlights from obscured companies like Nightwatch, JKK, etc. They are not available on Aliexpress and are found only on Nealgadgets, Kaidomain, etc. For extra buyer’s protection I’d recommend to use Paypal for your purchase.
What else these lights have in common is super low cost. It works out great because I like to experience 20000-lumen beams, but don’t want to pay big bucks for lights that I won’t be using often.
The Wurkkos TS32 is indeed the “odd man out” with Nichia 519a. And although it doesn’t match the brightness of the other superlights (16000 lm Wurkkos vs 20000 plus for the other big boys), the wall of light of the Wurkkos’s 519a 5000k is not only (super) bright enough, but also very clearly the most beautiful of the group. I already feel sure about that even though not all the lights are here yet. Beamshots are coming; I’m just waiting for one more of the super-lights.
Why did you go with the SFN55 for the JKK 76? The SFT40’s are a better thrower, though the wall of light and tint of the 55’s is pretty nice.
Just ordered the TS32, figuring it will be similar to Hank’s DM1.12 but with better runtimes. Plus being able to use flood and spot at the same time. Hopefully the tint is as nice as the 219’s in the DM1.12.
If you expect the tint of 219b 4500k then I am afraid this light will disappoint you. IME 219b makes every other LED I have looks green, and the 519a is no exception.
As mentioned TS32’s 519a is most beautiful only in Turbo mode, where it is not green when judged by itself and not white walling against 219b 4500k. In the context of comparing against these other 15000 lm super-lights, it is very clearly the most beautiful warm-colored wall-of-light.
Do you have DM1.12 with 219b 4500k? Do you know what the lumen output is on the flood channel (can’t seem to find a review with Nichia in flood)? And how’s the stepdown? Very curious because stepdown is already marginal in TS32’s large host, and DM1.12 is so much smaller. If it looks promising I might just get it.
I don’t know how many lumens it has in in flood, enough for me (don’t have a meter). As for the stepdown, I only turbo for seconds at a time if at all. Mostly use my lights to spot garbage before the dog does on the night time walk. I’d imagine it gets hot pretty quick.
Maybe someone else that has it can chime in……
The Haikelite HK05 is an enormous creature, both in weight and in size. It’s solidly constructed and feels like a brick. I believe the weight difference would have implication regarding stepdown vs. Nightwatch Chaos for example, but I haven’t done comparison yet.
The strap that comes with the light is not very good, so I replaced it with my Canon DSLR strap, and then could carry it comfortably. Words can’t describe the look on my wife’s face when she saw this behemoth of a flashlight needing camera strap to carry .
. I will always remember that first moment I turned T32 on at full blast. Oh I surely am not in Kansas anymore!
.