SOLD is this Digital Multimeter. I bought it a few months ago, because of a test on meters I found on the web. This was one of the more accurate ones, so I bought it.
Well, it was a nice thought, but the operator has to know what to do with it. They say you can't teach an old dog new tricks and it's true! I have a simple meter that I use for ohms/volts readings and I have an analog meter for amps. I have turned this one on twice to read ohms and volts, but it is way too complicated for me. By the time I get it set up, I don't even want to read the result.
It is better off going to someone who knows what they are doing and who needs it.
It comes with the meter, cables, manual and a multifunction socket (whatever the hell that is).
It is in like new condition.-
SOLD PRICE is $20.00 Shipped (CONUS ONLY).
Payment is PayPal valleau (insert the @ sign here) suddenlink.net
Post here that you will take it and follow it with a paypal payment.
Nice meter you picked up there for 20 bucks. For a low-dollar piece of equipment, it’s actually quite good.
Here’s a video I just recently made that compares that exact meter to a couple of high dollar (one about $200-250 and one about $1000-1200) meters. It held up pretty well, actually. The test-leads that come with it aren’t even all that bad! It’s re-branded, and really a MASTECH. Most likely, the test-leads will actually say “MASTECH” on them.
Actually, now that I look more closely, its a VERY SLIGHTLY different model than the one I have - looks to be the same family though, for sure. I would expect it to be very similar.
Pilot, that video was amazing. I had no idea a DMM siphoned off that much voltage.
I'm not comfortable publishing an incorerct tail cap reading but honestly, I don't often get a steady measurement from lights purchased from most Chinese sellers. It happens mostly when I suspect that mode is direct drive but I also see it with supposedly "regulated" drivers. The only lights where the reading does not wildly fluctuate (sometimes as much as a full amp) are E1320's custom boards. What's funny about it is that his Fluke and my Extech seem to be off almost exactly the same. He'll say, for example, that the light he just modded for me pulls 3.5 amps on high. When I get the light, it will measure not less than .05 of his reading, on my Extech - every single time. And, unlike nearly every purchased light I have, it will rise to that reading with very little or no fluctuation. Interesting to know that in all cases, the emitter is getting quite a bit more.
I guess the next dumb question is, do I need a scope to connect a clamp to or did somebody already have to bright idea of an LCD equipped clamp? Obviously, I need Google about right now.
Once again, you have enlightened and inspired . . .
The Sinometer and the MASTECH should be the same meter made by the same mfg, but branded differently.
I have a question for you, what affect does my Analog ammeter gauge have on the circuit, when I read tail cap measurements with it? I have noticed it always reads higher than the meter did. I figured since it is not powered, only the resistance of the 12ga wires and the gauge itself would be what affects the circuit.
An Analog ammeter will have essentially the same effect as a digital meter. If it reads a little higher, it may have a bit lower value shunt resistor or it may just be more or less accurate than your DMM.
Both the Analog and Digital meter measure current using the same principals though - voltage drop across a shunt. The only difference is the UI
Some more than others, but in all cases, enough to make significant differences - especially in direct drive.
If your reading is fluctuating, then you can be almost assured that PWM (and probably low frequency PWM) is being employed. A non-pwm’d regulator will be very stable and a high-frequency PWM’d regulator will be easily averaged by any reasonably good meter. Low frequency PWM is tough for a meter to average though… Also, if your meter is fluctuating, then any reading is meaningless… It’s one data-point on a square-wave, nothing more…
They do make all-in-one current clamp meters, yes. The better current-clamps are the stand-alone ones like I used in the video, but you can just as easily connect them to a DMM in voltage mode as an oscilloscope. The DMM will display volts rather than current - but you just do the math. For instance, I had set the current clamp to 100mV per Amp. So, if the meter said 250mV, the current clamp would be reading 2.500 Amps.
