How to keep twisties together in a pocket or purse?

Can’t say it has been an issue for me. Although some lights have looser heads than others.

Maybe consider switching to a Maglite Solitaire though. They are pretty unique in the fact they are head tight for off, while every other AAA light is head loose for off.

You can wrap the teflon tape pretty thick and then actuate it several times until it is smooth to twist. It will keep the head on and lets you “tune” how far you unscrew the head to make it minimal twist to turn on, as it stays in place well.

For zipper-pulls (kinda catastrophic if the head unscrews and falls off, I’d think), I use scotchtape, not masking tape. Same idea, though.

Thicker fatter O-rings are nice, too, but (intentionally) make it harder to twist/untwist.

I like the idea of the i1R(?) that has a captive head, but still wouldn’t keep such a light on a rock-tumbler of a keychain. Then again, that’s just me. :laughing:

short-term method:
extra-hold hair gel on threads.
longer-term:
glue stick.
no clue:
deformation of thread path
before a disconnect point.

For all my AA, AAA & CR123 twisties, I use a plumbing O-ring (such as Danco brand), readily available in multiple diameters & thicknesses at any hardware store. Just roll the right size ring over the head and down into the groove where the head meets the battery tube. When you retrieve the light from your pocket, it's a seemless process to roll the ring halfway up the bezel with one hand, while providing extra grip in order to rotate the light on & off, also with one hand. I find it's an ideal, low-profile, unobtrusive solution to secure even the loosest bezel-to-battery tube junctions. The way it enhances your ability to activate the light with one hand by improving the grip is a bonus. .

Wow. I’ve been pocket EDC’ing Maratac AAA twisties for a decade, and I added a Sofirn C01S to the mix about a year ago, but I’ve never had a problem like you describe.

I lubed the Maratac threads with No-Ox-Id. The Sofirn just has factory lube at this time.

I1R2 has the captive head, but I have been using both on key chain and haven’t had either separate. For the new year I decided to try the TINI on the keys but in the mode that lasts only 30 seconds before shutdown cause I know this thing is gonna turn on.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I hadn't thought about teflon tape. I'll give that a try. Also like KnotSoMuch O-ring suggestion & will play with that next time I'm in a hdwe store.

slmjim

I’ve never had Teflon tape make for a great experience for threads that need to be turned frequently. My advice would be to pony up for a tube of Nyogel 760G, the good thing is it’ll last you literally decades.

I retired my Thrunite Ti in titanium because of this. Reached into my pocket to find a disassembled light or a dead battery too many times. Thicker grease didn’t help me, the threads were way too loose (probably so they didn’t gall like my 4sevens Mini II does)

Twisties always fall apart in my pocket.

I haven't tried any of the solutions presented in this thread.

My solution: quit purchasing and using twisties.

I haven't bought or used a twisty in years!

Convoy aaa
Captive head
Excelent
https://m.fr.aliexpress.com/item/32730506517.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail

This.

I thought this post was about something else twisting in your pockets when I first saw it!:smiley:

Lipstick tube holder? :wink:

Here’s a fancy one made of leather:
https://www.amazon.com/Rustic-Leather-Keychain-Holder-Protection/dp/B07BFJRQQT/

I’ve never had this happen or come close to being an issue, and I’ve edc’s different twisties since forever. The threaded section is always long enough that it doesn’t ever loosen. I wonder if you are just using lights with crappy machining, and/or body tubes that are too short or cells that are too long. Maybe the answer is get better lights, but failing that, check your O ring.

Bit late to the party but my Skilhunt E3A has amazingly good threads that never come apart on their own, unlike several others I've tried.

Thicker O-ring should do the trick.

never had that but maybe with tape 2 layers stuck back to back but one is half width

w= regular tape

t= half as wide

s= sticky side

B is the boundary between light halves

L is light body so

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if that makes sense then you wrap that around so the bottom half is not really stuck, it puts a non-stick layer on the light to add friction wle

For zipper-pulls, I used to just slap some scotchtape around it. Kept it in-place forever, and if I needed to use the light, just reapply later.