Damn nice work as usual Match
Yes, very nice!
I noticed that you bought some aspheric lenses. If you mount a XR-E on a copper heatsink with the little pedestal as in the picture above and then put that under an aspheric in addition to being able to drive it hard the beam should be improved since there is nothing else on the same plane as the emitter (due to the pedestal).
Everything else would be out of focus other than the emitter.
I’m curious as to what project you have in mind for the aspherics 
Now, where are those night time beamshots? Do we have some comparison beamshots?
Against KE-5, M10, and the rest of the more expensive throwers?
great post
-could a cre xp-e be trimmed and then soldered to a heatsink and then wired as shown above?
-could the soldering technique described also work on an aluminum heatsink
thanks??
Did something like this with an MC-E on a brass pill a few years ago...
What you can't see in the pic is that the legs are bent up, then there's kapton tape beneath them. Had to use flux to get a good solder joint on them, then thermal epoxied the wires in place and to aid in heat transfer.
hi
just looking in cheapbatterypacks.com and they have zinc flux and solder designed for soldering aluminum.
has anyone tried using solder to flow an emitter onto an aluminum heatsink, using procedures as above and the appropriate flux/solder??
YOUR THOUGHTS / COMMENTS PLEASE !!
thanks
Awesome job Match :heart_eyes:
Bowhunter,
I can’t comment on the zinc solder/flux…haven’t used it yet. As long as the solder doesn’t require a much higher temperature to flow it may work. Again though, I haven’t really looked into it.
UPz,
Thanks for the compliment!
TechJunkie,
Nice job on the MCE, but considering how poorly brass conducts heat vs copper or even aluminum did you notice much of an improvement?
In this case, yes. There was no room for a star with this drop-in, so the only two alternatives were thermal epoxy or direct solder.
Thanks for posting this GREAT guide Match. Awesome work as always.
Now after reading, I have a question… Is a good idea to use thermal glue (like FUJIK) instead of flux and heat? I’m a bit worried about burning the emitter and with glue it is easier for me.
@ Techjunkie: Great work. Did you post those pictures around 2009 or something? I recall seing something like that back then.
@ Match: Thanks to your guide and results here I have now completely gone over to XML on copper based PCB's. Just wish something like that was available for the XR-E R2's that I'm so fond of :-( I hate filing away on those contact pads!.
Not really. The thermal conductivity of Fujik isnt much better than of air. Just give it a try. Its really not hard.
As NightCrawl stated...bad idea. One would be better off sticking with a stock aluminum star.
Thanks!! I’m going to try it, but after making mistakes I’m asking another thing…
Is it necessary to have that little raised part to place the LED?
Is it better that way or can I make a flat surface to mount the LED?
It will work fine on a flat surface.
Necessary? No. But you may be limited on your focus range, depending on your beam tastes.
Thanks Match!
It works perfectly, I made it flat because I didn’t use a reflector, here is a pic, and the thread about it: 50mm aspheric DirectDive XM-L U2 in copper
Glad to be of service. That light looks like a beast...I need to go check out your build thread now!
well I know this is not a new thread but I am sure some of you arround can answer my question. How do you solder a wire to those mini contacts on top of the led? y scraped that silicone like coating on top and then tinned them I only need one but I tinned both, then I tried to stick a 20 awg in the negative one and then chickened out after a while as it was not sticking in there.
also how did you (match) file the contacts? I am planning on using some thermal paste I have arroound to avoid shorting but I would like to do both things file it down and then use thermal paste.
anyway I am ordering sinkpads next, dont want to damage my xm l2 s once they arrive.
Soldering to the top little connection pads is a big pain in the rear, but doable. Make sure it 's a very thick "tin" to the pads and it'll be easier.
I used a dremel tool and a small set of jewelers files to remove the bottom contacts and ensure no short when reflowed into place.
Honestly, nowadays I think I'd just use one of the little copper sinkpads being sold here and forgo this hassle.