Regarding Apple customers always needing latest and greatest.
“You can fool some of the people some of the time but Apple customers you can fool all of the time.”
do a factory reset. The process for this is:
– Loosen tailcap – Hold button – Tighten tailcap – Keep holding button for about 4s I've tried this probably 25+ times. When i first had issues, this seemed to work the first few times and the light would work as it is supposed to immediately after. Then i'd turn it off and when i'd come back to try it a few minutes later it was back to not working. I was able to get it working again about 3 or 4 times doing this, but it wouldn't stay working after i'd turn it off. Since those first 3 or 4 times, it no longer works. I hold the button, screw the light back together, just before its almost fully screwed in there is a brief flash from the main LED's then the green AUX LED's turn on and then nothing. No response of any type when i click it.
The light should flicker while getting brighter, then briefly burst to
full power. Hold until it reaches full power to do a reset, or let go
of the button early to abort.
On some lights, like products where the tailcap method is impossible,
use 13H from Off to do a factory reset.
12 clicks and hold the 13th I was not able to open tailcap, but was able to open from the top/middle part of the light. i've tried the 13H with no luck either.
Thanks again to everyone for your help.
From what i’ve read it sounds like you’ve been loosening and tightening the tailcap with the head in place.
Try loosening the head (or removing it), then tightening the tailcap fully, then replacing the head.
(And then if the button works you might still need to do the 13H reset that doesn’t involve loosening the tail cap.)
Sometimes on a light with a signal tube you can get a poor connection through the signal tube which can be sorted by tightening the tail before the head.
And for the TS10 Wurkkos specify: “Note: tail cap is glued，for better contact of the electronic tail press, please do not twist and disassemble the tail cap. Unscrew the entire head to replace the battery.”
From what i’ve read it sounds like you’ve been loosening and tightening the tailcap with the head in place. I may have stated incorrectly that I was removing the tailcap. I was not. I was removing/unscrewing the head. I can't budge the tailcap.
Sledgehammer.
Ah, thanks for the confirmation, you can’t do what i suggest then 
Is Wurkkos usually pretty good about answering emails? I know they were off through the 27th, but I haven’t heard a peep back from them.
They have ben when I contacted them in the past. Maybe you could give it a couple of days after their holiday
You could try to PM “wurkkos” (user) to see if that might help.
Thanks. They actually did respond timely on their website, but I missed it not realizing there was an inbox on their site. I thought any response would have generated an email instead. I had also sent several emails that weren’t returned yet, but i’m not worried about that as they did respond. I’m going to send a video of the light not working and we will go from there.
Hey buddy, happy new year! I just ended my New Year holiday.
I guess the issue comes from its tail. It should be that the inner tube and tail are not fully contact due to errors assembly. Because our green aux version has been out of stock. How about let’s exchange another TS10 body?
Hi,
Thanks for getting back to me. I really appreciate it. I’ve been contacted by Eric directly on the Wurkkos website and he is sending me a replacement.
Excellent Customer Service from Wurkkos!
Congratulations.
will be waiting to hear when you get the new light, whether its tail works on the light you have now, that does not work… that will help determine if the issue is w the tail or the head of the light that is not working.
I’ll definitely do that once i receive it. So far the customer service has been great after the holiday. They did reply during the holiday on their website, but i missed it not knowing there was an inbox on the site. But after I realized that and responded, they’ve been very responsive and very helpful.
Hunting for a solution to this similar problem you’ve had. Did Wurkkos handle this for you? How did you describe your situation so that they didn’t think you weren’t simply anduril clueless or similar?
I’ve a dead TS10 and have been through all the resets, and suggestions in this post. Love this light so much. Hoping it’s a fixable issue. - Also, sorry if there is a direct message option here, first post on BLF and I couldn’t find dm. If you see this and respond, thank you much!
The TS10 is very finicky about being clean and tight. It’s not the only light that is that way, but it’s especially common on Anduril lights that have a tailswitch; the Emisar KR4 is the same way. I have five TS10’s (two green aux) and a KR4, and the first thing I always do when they misbehave is wipe the ends of the battery tube, then reassemble and crank them tight.
One TS10-specific quirk is that sometimes removing and replacing the head doesn’t result in a flash to let you know it’s connected or the aux lights coming on. Most times when that happens, it’ll still turn on, then will operate normally though; it’s just a little scary the first few times.
It’s always possible that there is an actual defect, of course, but considering that I’ve faces similar issues yet all five of my TS10’s that have done similar things are operating perfectly now with no need to contact our man Terry or the other folks at Wurkkos, I figured I’d chime in and say that it may be something minor/fixable. And if it’s not, there is a reason why Wurkkos is so respected in the community besides offering decent lights at a decent price; excellent customer service. If it turns out that they sent you a bad TS10, they will make it right.
There’s a pretty large capacitor on the driver that can power the microcontroller for almost half a minute without a battery.
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Not sure if it is only on Anduril 2. But to do the factory reset, you could also do this:
- loosen the tailcap until the light is off.
- Hold the tail button while fastening the tailcap.
- If it is already tight, it will performs the factory reset. The led will start to ramp up from low to high and flashes once at the end.
The TS10 doesn’t allow you to do this. The tail cap is glued. The inner tube will not allow you to do it with the head.
13H will work, if something else is not hosed.
Battery length is critical. Three of mine work with Vapcell H10 button tops, two do not.
Clean contact points are also a necessity. I have “fixed” one just by a full and complete cleaning. Including very lightly sanding the inner tube and main body tube ends with 1000 grit sandpaper. The contact areas in the head with a pencil eraser. Then swabbing everything well with 90% isopropyl alcohol.
But all of this has been covered. What I am curious about is whether @scoperdue ever got a new light and if it works for him. If they did not require a return, maybe it is worth playing with the “defective” (?) one that he has to see if he can make it work.
I would sure try a different cell. Based on my problems with certain ones. And maybe swap the head from a working one. If for nothing else than just trying to figure out what went wrong.
This. From what I’ve experienced, I would never run a cell longer than 50mm in a TS10. I’m not a modder or tinkerer, but it seems the boards in this model are not installed in a manner that is conducive to linear stress. You might get away with it for a time, but eventually it will distort something in the head or tailcap and game over. I only use flat-top Vapcell L10/H10 or Epoch equivalent in mine since my initial experience with a defective driver. I installed a Vapcell gold button top (50.3mm) in a new TS10. It worked for 5 minutes, and then went haywire. No amount of reset attempts could restore the system. The light will not turn off, and the aux lights are constant on. Upon inspection, I found the driver to be slightly ‘floating’ in the head assembly. I sent a video to Wurkkos and they sent me a replacement.
Lesson learned. Cell length (and in many cases current limitations) are very important requirements when it comes to the proper functioning of these (or any) devices. Very few manufacturers specify either, which sucks for the unsuspecting end user. I’ve been burnt more than once either by my own ignorance of the dynamics, or the lack of essential information provided by the manufacturer (which qualifies some of the former). I’d like to think I’m a bit wiser at this point when it comes to selecting the right power plant for the lights I purchase, and in all cases err on the side of caution. Protected cells are a hard pass from me with one exception (Keeppower 14500 in my AA Tool). If a light I’m considering requires a protected or proprietary cell, it’s off my radar, period. I also don’t like drivers with solid contacts for the same reasons, but sometimes ya gotta be “flexible” in order to not miss out on an otherwise fantastic product. That’s the TS10 in this case. I have 7 now. Love 'em.
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