Apex 5T6, pics, impressions, beamshots added...

Just got it from CNQG.
Really well made light. Tight fitting O-rings, excellent olive-gray anodize quality and color, good machining quality… Happy overall.

Heavier than it looks, despite its small size.
Its still too bright out to do any kind of lumen/lux comparisons, so for now heres some pics.

BLFer “the” has some excellent tear-down pics and a thorough review here:
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/9577

Well packed. Kit includes extra silicone O-ring and a brown paracord lanyard.

Some glamour shots. Note that the macro setting on my camera severely distorts images so that items closer appear bigger.

Nice laser etched logo

Cast aluminum bezel trim

Heat warning

Reverse clicky, switch plate, stainless allen screws & handle mount

Business end. Clean window glass, smooth reflectors.

Heatsink area

KILLER HA color, very closely matches the $$$ guys

Size comparison to my other BLs

Battery compartment, CGR18650E x 4

Very good thread quality. Very smooth once you lube everything up.

Heres the -B contact spring plate

Easy switch access / replacement. Just unscrew the allen bolt plate.

Some crude machining in here, but perfectly serviceable.

EDIT
So here are the results of my second attempt at fixed camera setting beamshots. I set the camera exposure and white balance using the TR-J12 LOCKED those settings for each location and proceeded to take the fixed shots using the Apex 5T6 and my 3.5A modded HD2010

TR-J12 on HI

Apex 5T6 on HI

HD2010 on HI (T6 @ 3.5A, 7135 modded)

TR-J12 on HI

Apex 5T6 on HI (I am not sure why the sidewalk looks so bright in this pic… I could have sworn I had my aim right in the middle at the orange concrete post)

HD2010 on HI (T6 @ 3.5A, 7135 modded)

thanks for the pics…can’t wait to see shots of it vs other lights…

Hi Kramer, sweet new toy you got there. Can’t wait to see some beam shots. That switch looks the same as on my Ultrafire UF-T70. Should be easy to get a tail reading from the contacts.

nice light,I like the finish,I'm on board with everyone else and would love some beamshots.I can tell just by the box that this light kicks ass!!!Thanks kramer, good info.

Please compare beamshots to the TR-J12 you got there. I been itching for a multi led light, this might be the one.

Some more pics… You guys know the little flashlight man in our heads that just says “BUY it now!! Buy it now!!!” and once you get it he goes… “Oooh screws!! Take them apart… COME ON!!!”.

Tear down time.

The switch board comes apart easily.

I was going to copper braid them, but I dont think I need to.

Remember the $23 Skyray Coin-King Ebay scam? I tried to use that coin to bridge all the -B poles and take a tailcap current measurement. But the dam thing was to big.

Tried a quarter, but Its not flat and I was not getting good contact across all the cells.

So I just put the switch board back in and measured current across the switch directly (solder pad to pad), through the -B springs and all I get:
5.3A - HI
1.95A-MED
.36A - LO

With my 2.3 Ah (tested) CGR18650E cells that equates to:
1.74 Hours - HI
4.71 Hours - Med
25.6 Hours - Lo

5.3A from a single cell would be asking a lot. But with 4P, it gets split 4-ways. So its a REALLY easy 1.33A draw from each cell. So even non-IMR Samsung and Sony cells can easily run with this light. Forget the high output Lithium current blasters. Get cells that optimize CAPACITY for this one!! Should make a KILLER constant-ON, long running, trail flooder. I was going to take the little handle off, but I think it will be easier to hand carry.

so 5.3a is only 1-1.1a per led?

Assuming panny CGR 18650 cells dont voltage sag much under this light of a load, and the XML Vf doesn’t increase much over 3.2V.

1.17A per LED is what I calculate, assuming an 85% efficient driver.

Now lets not jump the gun here, just yet… these are just ballpark estimated theoretical calcs. I for one am going to let someone take the plunge and actually measure LED current, before I jump to conclusions.

I will be doing ceiling-bounce comparisons with my TR-J12 tonight, so sit tight for that. I wish I could take beam-shots (AARGH). I only have a P/S camera. I might try my wifes iphone… maybe theres a iphone camera AP that will allow me to fix exposure settings.

yeah get “almost dslr” you can tap the exposure button to lock it…might take a few tries to get it locked to the right exposure…

Great thanks!!
I let the light tail-stand on HI for 5-6 minutes in my 85-F garage, with no additional cooling and it did get hot to the touch. Not painful/scalding to the touch hot, but definitely hot enough for a light this size. So whatever drive current its set to, I think its optimal for a light this size / weight.

You have many lights Kramer, just get a lux meter and be done with it. :smiley:

I need one bad don’t mean to thread highjack but what do you recommend.

x2… any meter recommendations?

I have this Mastech LX1330B on the way from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000S19W3W/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1340850328&sr=8-1

Maybe we should all get the same one so are numbers are better to compare.

Viffer did a comparison. Can just get the Victor one (ebay/aliexpress) or the one from DX (there are a couple there). I have the DX one.

Some overread and some under-read. Anyway within the same lux meter model, the readings would vary.

Im getting 1.47amp or 7.35amps at the cap. High mode and two sets of fresh cells, 4x AW 2000mah Red Label
and AW 2200mah Protected or Black Jacket. This is still below spec but i’ll wait for an official review …

And Thanks Kramer for your initial feedback…

Further impressions…
Just got back form a little night walk around the neighborhood and the 5T6 is DEFINITELY a flooder. Its a wider flood beam than the TR-J12, by a slight but definitely noticeable amount. I left the light on for ~30 minutes straight. It got warm but not alarmingly hot, so its well suited as a constant on, hand held flood light, with moderately cool air circulation. Can’t wait to get it out on the trails and camp sites, perfect for that kind of thing.

Snapped some fixed exposure beam shots too EDIT These pics really weren’t that great, so I have deleted them. My original post has now been updated with better shots… ITS REALLY HARD taking good beamshots. Some of you guys have some MAD SKILLS in this department. I was able to lock down the iPhone exposure setting alright, but with a wide beam flooder theres no center hot spot to aim and center the beam with. I tried my best to aim the light at targets, but still… I’m off just a little on a few. So take these shots for what they’re worth. Definitely I think the TR-J12 and 5T6 are in the same lumen ballpark, they’re not far off from each other thats for sure. The J12 has a slightly tighter more focused beam so again its the Lux-versus-lumen thing playing tricks. I’m happy calling them 2000 Lumen flooders, and that’ll be it for me.

One things for dam sure… at $54 shipped the TR-J12 is a STEAL. Its 1/2 the price, of the Apex for almost the same amount of light OTF and a slightly tighter beam. The Apex form factor slaughters the J12 though. Its just an easier light to carry, hold, mode flip…etc.

The handle thing is a nice feature too. I had no problems carrying it.
Beer mug hold

The thumbs up hold

The Rock-ON hold

The double 2KL-OTF hold

Wow thats 2A more than mine draws… strange. I’m definitely getting a lot of light. On a ceiling bounce it just about the same as my TR-J12. Its a more yellow tint than my J12 too. So th etint difference could be playing tricks on me.

Way to go! :)

Thanks for posting your initial impressions, photos & especially beamshots!

I've been preparing a full review of this light, so: I hope you don't mind if I publish it. (No beamshots though. I tried to go out last night at 00:30, but it was still too bright for good beamshots. Midnight sun rules, NOT! )