Just got this driver from KD. (ordered the 17th and arrived today. They get faster and faster!)
On it is printed 105C not A as shown elsewhere. Dont know of its an approvement or not.
Driving a XM-L led it draws 2.8 amps on high, 0.8 on mid and 0.1 on low.
Does the big chip say ATMEL on it?
There is nothing printed at all on the big microchip.
Hi again brted
I check it again with a better light and a magnifying glass.
On it is printed:
Atmel 1017
TINT 13A
It can be hard to see without a magnifying lens and getting the light just right. Thanks for double checking. The ATMEL chip can be programmed with an AVR setup, but the blank chips can not.
Yes, and my eyes are not what they where years ago!
Thanks for info. I dont program though, but Im very satied
with the modes as they are.
Does the C means something? Used to be 105A.
I think they are using it to identify different versions of the driver. The pictures on KD show a 105 and it has 2 little resistors soldered on the bottom of the board. But the 105A picture above shows a capacitor on the bottom. So they are tweaking the design, but I'm not sure why.
I asked as I thought you maybe knew the difference between the various versions.
Mine has a single capasitor at the bottom.
Because you got the Atmel kind, I just ordered 3. The last time I ordered I got the PIC type but I have hopes that the PIC era is over now.
Glad I can help you sixty545. I myself are thinking of ordering a few more to
swap with some of my other drivers which dont deliver so much punch like
this one.
so I orderd this driver for my xml drop-in..what about the positive contact spring? is it long enough for the p60 module to make contact? or do I solder on another spring..the contact patch isn't large enough for the tupical p60 spring..confused...
It is possible by fiddling to have the driver do this (mode 2):
Hi 2450mA (kill an amc)
Med 1200mA
low 100mA
I bet not but it does not hurt to ask right?
I had to solder a lengh of copperwire on the end of the spring to make contakt. No big deal as you are to solder anyway.
Works fine now in all my lights.
Do you happen to have a picture of the mod with copper wire?? I’m just trying to grasp what was actually done…thanks
Does anyone know if the diode is in series with the 7135's as well as the MCU?
Am just wondering if the diode drops the voltage to the emitter, or whether it is just in series with the MCU to protect it.
Thanks.
I just took a small piece of thick cobberwire. Bented it, so it formed a loop. I then
put the 2 ends into the spring and soldered them to it. The loop now protutes from the
spring about 5 mm.
The last is true. Only the MCU.
Thanks for confirming this.
I have just installed a 105A in a XM-L T5 light
I get 2.5A tailcap (got about 3 A with same batt in direct drive)
Any ideas on how to squeeze the last 0.3 A out of the driver? (bypasing the diode?)
and does the driver self needs additional cooling?
btw. I like the memory function with blink confirmation
Probably you have bad multimeter