Nice review.
I have the FandyFire version.
Mine too came with a off centered emitter.
Perhaps what I did can help you out.
When I took off the bezel I noticed the reflector had some side to side play.
I put it back together and tightened it loosely.
Turned the light to it’s side and tapped it from the top which made the reflector slowly vibrate down until it was centered.
Then I fully tightened the bezel and it’s been good ever since.
Hope this helps
Sashi -
I really need to make a list so I don't forget this stuff. I had it all in my notes . . . . will add to review.
Okay, PWM seems nearly non-existent; only on low can I see any interuptions on my camera. To the eye, mine has no PWM.
Current draw with a protected Solarforce 18650/2400 on high was 4.25 to 4.60 amps and there was no discernible difference in output.
I'm almost certain it is direct drive on high, based on how it floats when testing current.
Not sure about the driver but here's a whitewall with the M8 . . . .
HD2010 on the left and M8 on the right.
You can see the effects of the M8's hybrid reflector. Both lights exibit a slightly green corona. Everything about the beam profile on the HD2010 is well defined. It has a center spot with a sharp transition to corona that fades quickly to spill.
Foy
Foy - Thanks for this review. This one is in my cart and im about to put it on DHL. Wasn’t sure about the numbers and performance has gotta be impressive. With all the multi-emitters o/p ridiculousness lumens this must be a special light
Nice review Foy… Watch out for further dings and scratches. The anodize finish is fragile on this light and the cast aluminum surfaces are soft and ding/dent easily.
Mine behaved the same way when I tried to measure tailcap currents. It would only cycle back and forth between HI and disco.
Nicest hidden feature about this light is that it comes on HI every time after being left off for 3-4 econds. So you can bypass SOS and disco, go straight from LO to HI with a 3-4 second soft press.
Another top notch review from Foy. Thanks. Have I sucked up enough to ask questions now? I have the Tangsfire so am interested in any differences between the two.
The driver possibly for a start. I had the same issue doing tailcap measurements but the non flashy mode that I could measure was 2.7 amps also with a King Kong. I dont know if this is high or medium.
All orings were to small as were yours.
The finish was near perfect on all parts except the thread where the bezel scews on was missing anodising in places.
The tailcap switch on the Tangsfire in my book is horrible. It is very heavy in action and feels like it is very harsh when pushing it in if that makes any sense. It feels like it needs a bit of grease in it but then that would not solve the problem of the heavy spring. How does yours compare to the switch in the JM05?
Nice review and pics, Foy. Nice to see the comparison to the M8. I have both and agree the HD2010 is the winner by a bit. Have you had any issues with the reflector shorting on the LED wires? Mine also can have the LED off center but as mentioned above, careful placement of the somewhat loose reflector cures that. Bottom line, this light has flaws but it really performs.
Good way to start your morning. Thank you for the review.
Could you please take a tailcap reading again after a couple weeks of general use? I am curious if after a while your tailcap reading will inexplicably drop below 4A no matter what you try, like it did to some of us here...
Love this light, does throw really well that got me take 2
Hey taz… I just thought of it this morning, I wonder if your springs have annealed and softened from the current flow? So perhaps now they have compressed to the 650 battery length and you are loosing contact force between the springs and battery??
I had this happen to my TR-J12 only it was very obvious… the smell and cell rattle gave it away immediately after a ~20 minute (HOT) run.
The TR-J12 draws upwards of 5-7A at its peak, when Vin drops. Thats not too far off from the peak ~5.5A I was getting from my HD2010 when I had the stock driver in there, and the springs were pressed completely flat.
Whereas when I took a reading the first time, I was afraid to press down because reading started at 4,2A and when it went to 5,2A I stopped,thinking I would damage the emitter somehow, now I start at 2,6A and pressing on the battery until it compresses the spring to the max possible, I get about 3,9A... could this be caused by the spring? Can somehow a driver stop performing to the max? If it was a driver that had multi AMCs I would think that maybe one or more are not functioning, but this driver doesn't have many chips on it... and I really wish there was a compatible driver that would give 5A max to swap this one out... it's a really great light, and knowing that normally it easily goes to 5A, doing 3,5A now is a bit annoying... The thing also is that in the other HD2010 related threads, there are other owners I think who cannot do over 3A...
Thx for the awesome view Foy!
Nice review foy, I’m thinking of getting this light. looks like a good one.
But not from Tmart.
Thanks for the info, Foy. Much appreciated 
As for tint… cameras can actually adjust some things and tint could look different on pic. Does your pics are close to real life/your eye-meter? 
To make a good comparison of hotspots and such, I think a pic with lower exposure shows those differences better
Hm, strange, but looking at those pic you’ve made, HD2010 has brighter spill to me outside, but inside, M8 has better spill 
Good to know that you can run it with 18650 without loosing much current/brightness 
Very interesting. Have you bought yours @DD? They sells it for 34 without any coupons Add a 10%coupon, add some points and you will get best bung for the buck. Or not? Can you see PWM on yours? Thanks in advance
MRsDNF -
I haven't seen the Tangsfire so, not sure what the differences are but because you had the same thing happen during testing that I did, would seen the driver might be the same. You are right about the switch, although I'm probably less bothered by it than you. I didn't really notice until you asked but the switch on the JM05 is very crisp and feels positive. The HD2010 is mushy by comparison but it might be because the JM05 uses a 14mm boot and the HD2010 is 16mm. Honestly, though, I don't think it's the boot.
BetweenRides -
I see what you're talking about but mine hasn't done it. (yet)
Taz -
I will do that but I must remind that I've had this light since 6-8-12. I hesitate to say this but if anything, my HD2010 actually measures a few points higher now than it did 3 weeks ago. I think it's because I removed the collar that held the spring cap down. The spring now presses slightly harder on the battery.
When I first got the light, my Extech measured a high of 5.0 amps that settled to 4.40-4.50. Today on my new Sinometer with a King Kong fresh off the charger, it begins at 5.40 and settles to 4.80-5.0 amps. I have experienced no current drop at all. If anything, it's higher now.
Foy
Sashi -
I had my camera on manual but the white balance was on auto. Usually, the best anybody can do is put up something to compare to and not something someone could expect to see themselves.
stilllearningFoy
I wish my HD2010 looked as good as that DD pic. Also, I paid more . . .
sighFoy
Thanks so much for another great review Foy! Frontpage’d and Sticky’d.
I want one of these but never pull the trigger for some reason…
thanks for the review foy…