Hey taz… I just thought of it this morning, I wonder if your springs have annealed and softened from the current flow? So perhaps now they have compressed to the 650 battery length and you are loosing contact force between the springs and battery??
I had this happen to my TR-J12 only it was very obvious… the smell and cell rattle gave it away immediately after a ~20 minute (HOT) run.
The TR-J12 draws upwards of 5-7A at its peak, when Vin drops. Thats not too far off from the peak ~5.5A I was getting from my HD2010 when I had the stock driver in there, and the springs were pressed completely flat.
Whereas when I took a reading the first time, I was afraid to press down because reading started at 4,2A and when it went to 5,2A I stopped,thinking I would damage the emitter somehow, now I start at 2,6A and pressing on the battery until it compresses the spring to the max possible, I get about 3,9A... could this be caused by the spring? Can somehow a driver stop performing to the max? If it was a driver that had multi AMCs I would think that maybe one or more are not functioning, but this driver doesn't have many chips on it... and I really wish there was a compatible driver that would give 5A max to swap this one out... it's a really great light, and knowing that normally it easily goes to 5A, doing 3,5A now is a bit annoying... The thing also is that in the other HD2010 related threads, there are other owners I think who cannot do over 3A...
Thanks for the info, Foy. Much appreciated
As for tint… cameras can actually adjust some things and tint could look different on pic. Does your pics are close to real life/your eye-meter?
To make a good comparison of hotspots and such, I think a pic with lower exposure shows those differences better
Hm, strange, but looking at those pic you’ve made, HD2010 has brighter spill to me outside, but inside, M8 has better spill
Good to know that you can run it with 18650 without loosing much current/brightness
Very interesting. Have you bought yours @DD? They sells it for 34 without any coupons Add a 10%coupon, add some points and you will get best bung for the buck. Or not? Can you see PWM on yours? Thanks in advance
I haven't seen the Tangsfire so, not sure what the differences are but because you had the same thing happen during testing that I did, would seen the driver might be the same. You are right about the switch, although I'm probably less bothered by it than you. I didn't really notice until you asked but the switch on the JM05 is very crisp and feels positive. The HD2010 is mushy by comparison but it might be because the JM05 uses a 14mm boot and the HD2010 is 16mm. Honestly, though, I don't think it's the boot.
BetweenRides -
I see what you're talking about but mine hasn't done it. (yet)
Taz -
I will do that but I must remind that I've had this light since 6-8-12. I hesitate to say this but if anything, my HD2010 actually measures a few points higher now than it did 3 weeks ago. I think it's because I removed the collar that held the spring cap down. The spring now presses slightly harder on the battery.
When I first got the light, my Extech measured a high of 5.0 amps that settled to 4.40-4.50. Today on my new Sinometer with a King Kong fresh off the charger, it begins at 5.40 and settles to 4.80-5.0 amps. I have experienced no current drop at all. If anything, it's higher now.
I had my camera on manual but the white balance was on auto. Usually, the best anybody can do is put up something to compare to and not something someone could expect to see themselves.
You should! They are excellent value-for-money. I have one, and already considering buying a second! Nevermind that my wife also likes it and wants one for my father-in-law...
I got issues with the ano finish and I remember hearing of tailswitch problems awhile back…i’ve kind of lost love for lights with problems from the factory…
I have had a half dozen of these come in for driver swaps and all of them had marks on the ano and also on the reflector. I finally got a perfect one it’s the first black one I have seen and my first order from Lightmalls for $38.90. I don’t know if the defects are limited to the gray ones or if Lightmalls has a different supplier. I can say I really like this light and finally getting one with no defects is nice.
thanks. unfortunately it seems you got a returned one? i guess if it works well no big deal. it will get scuffed up anyway. mine is a tang’s, it came in new condition. i bought it only for the (childish) purpose of putting out streetlights, which i haven’t been able to do. in the meantime though, i came to love it. it is a little large, but it is very very bright, with very very good throw, and has definitely become a keeper. i haven’t even tried a 26650 yet, don’t own one, but i’m sure it will be even better when i eventually get one.
The Crelant V9-T6 is a fantastic light but we're talking big block 'Vette and 307/2-barrel Mailbu. Nothing wrong with the V9 (I have one and really like it) but as far as output and throw, it's not even a contest . . . . nor should it be. (except price, now that I think about it) The V9 does feel better in my shorts side pocket. The HD2010's big head makes it somewhat less comfortable to carry.
The HD2010 is not all that less bright than my Crap-Ray 818 triple. You saw what it did to my M8. Wasn't pretty.