Maybe not the place for this question, but is anyone else having battery issues with this light? It doesn’t seem to like Trustfire flamers. Runs for 15 seconds and shuts down. I have many different flamer dates and batches from the past year or so. Same thing. The most reliable batteries for me seem to be crappy Ultrafire red 3000 and the equally crappy black ultarfire 3600 batts. These are my last choice for any light. In fact, I had been meaning to toss these because their run time is not very long. And some nonprotected sanyo/pan cells work.
I am afraid to keep trying “iffy” batts in it lest it shutoff forever, which wouldn’t be the end of the world if it was a $12 budget light but it’s $38!
It seems perhaps maybe to be related to initial voltage. If it’s too high (4.06-4.15ish), it seems to trigger some protection in the light and shut down. But I’m not sure because some flamers don’t seem to work no matter what the initial voltage level. Maybe it needs the extra capacity of a 26650? Got me. I have some 26650s on the way. I’ll see what those do. All I know is that it’s a pain to carry a handful of extra batts with me on a walk because I don’t know what will work.
I have 35 other lights. None have any problems with any of these batts.
I have that problem with only a few lights, where a UF3000 won't power them on high. Balder BD-2 is very picky, only a good quality cell will work. If I stick a UF in it, it will start flashing immediately and power down to medium or low. I think it has to do with high internal resistance? I haven't had an issue with King Kongs in my Tangsfire HD2010 - getting good output and run time. Tell you what, I'll test a few 18650's in it tonight and let you know.
Perhaps there's a contact issue? Maybe the Trustfire's aren't pushing tightly against the driver or tailcap springs? There have been some reports of issues with the springs getting squished shorter.
Before I modded mine, I used this light in stock form for about a month. I had no problems with any cells in this light. I am running unprotected 18650 cells from Sanyo, Pansonic, Sony. My 26650 cells are battery space LiNiCoMn, also unprotected.
Make sure the light is assembled correctly, everything from the switch pill to the driver pill is screwed down tight.
Does the problem persist with the reflector removed? If so then we can rule out a reflector short.
i prefer panasonic ncr’s or sanyo ur’s in this light.
panasonic cgr or any imr battery pulls too much current and has too little runtime in this light. 4 amps out of a solid unprotected high 2600+mah battery is fine by me. 5+ amps is pointless. at 5amps the hd2010 doesnt even seem to get hot which gets me a little worried that the drop in isnt shedding enough heat to the body.
Hi SashiX. Sorry I missed your question. Yes mine did come from DD. It was my first purchase from them and surprisingly quick delivery. I did use a coupon and got the light from memory about $32.00.
I assume though that the DD lights may have a different driver than other shops. Standard mine would draw less than 3 amps while others are getting upwards of 5 amps. DD only advertise 2.3 amps on there website, If anything can be believed on there site, this would be close.
I'm not partial to PWM so as yet I have not owned a light that bothers me particuarly with it. I cant say that I have noticed it but to others it may. I find it amusing that when doing N/O 1's in the toilet is a good way to check PWM (try it and tell me I'm not crazy). I would not suggest to check the waterproof caperbilities this way though.
Hahaha, there is no need to check it in the toilet, bro, just shake/move your hand rapidly. Fuzzy hand —> fast to non PWM driver, if you see your hand “cloned” multiple times - low PWM :bigsmile:
I’ve seen your other thread and looks like you’ve changed the driver. Can you post a pic of the old one? Maybe you get less than 3 A because of your DMM/leads
I have 3 good DMM (dont ask why I have so many) that all measure pretty much the same in voltage and current measurments. They all have heavy guage wire leads as standard. Numerous known quality batteries were tried with more or less the same current measurement at the tailcap.
This is a shot of the standard driver in my DD TangsFire.
Yup, but you need a fan for check it :bigsmile: I mean yeah, your PC has fans, but… if you have notebook? :bigsmile: And, AFAIK all of us have hands :bigsmile: Nah, just kidding
Aha. Interesting But to me, it’s the same driver UF has (East 092) Can it be because of the. lets say, “low current” batch?
Thanks
Ubehebe, as promised, I checked my Tangsfire with several 18650: Trustfire 3000, Solarforce 2400, Xtar 2600, and 2 batches of Ultrafire 3000, including one known fake. All power the HD2010 on high with no issue. I even left the UF cell in for over 5 minutes to see if it would step down. I agree with others that your issue might be something loose.
