Review: UltraFire HD2010

Easiest way I found to check PWN is aim light at a moving fan it increases as the modes lower like a timing light on a car if anyone remembers those.

I have 3 good DMM (dont ask why I have so many) that all measure pretty much the same in voltage and current measurments. They all have heavy guage wire leads as standard. Numerous known quality batteries were tried with more or less the same current measurement at the tailcap.

This is a shot of the standard driver in my DD TangsFire.

Yup, but you need a fan for check it :bigsmile: I mean yeah, your PC has fans, but… if you have notebook? :bigsmile: And, AFAIK all of us have hands :bigsmile: Nah, just kidding :wink:

Aha. Interesting :expressionless: But to me, it’s the same driver UF has (East 092) :expressionless: Can it be because of the. lets say, “low current” batch?
Thanks :wink:

Ubehebe, as promised, I checked my Tangsfire with several 18650: Trustfire 3000, Solarforce 2400, Xtar 2600, and 2 batches of Ultrafire 3000, including one known fake. All power the HD2010 on high with no issue. I even left the UF cell in for over 5 minutes to see if it would step down. I agree with others that your issue might be something loose.

Ubehebe -

I didn't notice issues with 18650's but honestly, I only had one in there long enough to measure amps. My guess is that it won't happen with 26650's.

Foy

Awesomereview&beautifulpicturesasusualFoy!

Anyone got the 3xm-l version?

I have a modded DRY 3XML drop in I have put in mine and it fits and works fine.

Nice review Foy, thanks.

Sounds interesting. Any pictures?

Hi everyone:

Thanks for checking batts. It’s definitely a shutdown of some kind. Nothing’s loose. Either the light is doing it (suspected) or the battery (maybe). 18650 Xtars, some flamers, all unprotected (sanyo, sony, panasonic, moli) work just dandy, but some flamers just shut off after about 10 seconds. Not the end of the world. I also have a Trustfire 5 q5 1500L that is also very picky. It’ll cycle to blinky if it gets a batt it doesn’t like. As I said, I think it has something to do with slight overcharging. Batts at 4.16-4.20 volts or so seem to trigger the shut down, or maybe there’s just not enough power in the batteries in question. I agree with whoever suggested that the 26650 would solve the prob. They’re on the way. In the meantime, I have set aside some batts that aren’t 2010 compatible. They also seem to be the ones that the 1500l doesn’t like.

Unlike the 1500L, however, it doesn’t step to a lower power, she just shuts off. If I quickly switch to a lower power, everything is fine. Looks like the flamers in question don’t have the power. Probably an AA eneloop packed in a fake trustfire flame masquerading as a real flamer…

Once again, thanks everyone. At least now I know I am the only one having this problem, which is pretty typical for me :–0

Got the copper board U2 in, does it seem any brighter? Not really to me, but I don’t have anything to measure with other than my eyes. Also the board is thinner and with the pill screwed out some it flickers and keeps changing modes, may have made it worse, not better. May send this to E1320, still debating.

copper alone is not going to increase lumen output on a cold start. Copper has the same ambient temperature as aluminum. Where it may (in theory) pay off is with higher drive currents, where it should conduct heat away more efficiently than the aluminum heatsink. But even thats debatable with an aluminum pill underneath.

Maybe you could use a thicker gasket in front of the glass to help take up the extra gap form the thinner copper?

The flicker may be a dry solder or poor contact of the pill with the reflector housing causing a bad earth.

I'm after a holster for this flashlight. Something that does not have a bottom in it so the bottom of the battery tube does not sit in anything. Any recomendations?

Yeah, I'm wondering what good holsters are out there for 26650 sized lights in general.

-Garry

Is the UltraFire HD2010 600 or 1300 or 390 lumens?

When I google UltraFire HD2010 I some sites advertizing 600 lumens and another sites 1300 lumens and also 390 lumens. Are these the same Ultrafire HD2010s, ignoring color, but using different drivers? Or are they different because of the battery being used (protected/unprotected)?

Site advertizing 600 lumens

http://www.lightmalls.com/perfect-ultrafire-hd2010-600lm-cree-xm-l-t6-5-mode-led-flashlight-1x18650

http://www.dinodirect.com/wholesale-flashlight-hd-cree-t6-600lm-led.html

Site advertizing 1300 lumens
http://www.tmart.com/UItraFire-CREE-XMLT6-8W-1300-Lumen-5-Mode-LED-Flashlight-Gray_p135765.html

Site advertizing 390 Lumens
http://lightake.com/detail.do/sku.UltraFire_HD2010_Cree_XM_LT6_3_Mode_390_Lumens_LED_Flashlight_Torch_Gray_1x18650–51207

None of the above I would say. I would think it is brighter than 600 lumens, but definitely no where near 1300, probably in the 700-900 range.

Those are all the HD2010. Its just www retailers copy-pasting whatever description they can find. I think its somewhere in the 750-900 lumen range. Its slightly brighter than the stanley fatmax on a ceiling bounce and a member on the other forum measured his stanley around 750 Lumens in his sphere.

I just wanted to add an update from a PM I received from Sherry Ye at Tmart. She offered me an $8 credit. I graciously accepted.

/whineFoy