So that means every time you turn it on it must draw full current for a fraction of a second to calibrate its output levels. I’d be surprised if it did that, as i can’t imagine the designer of the chip would go to that much work and wasting battery energy use just to figure out how much power to provide on lower settings. And where does that power go if its doing it?
I believe resistance is resistance no matter what mode it’s in. Having resistance in the battery holder is the same as soldering a resistor in line with the circuit. All modes are effected by it no matter how much the draw is. Just because medium and low do not pull the same from the cells as high, doesn’t mean that cell holder resistance does not effect them the same percentage.
No. With drivers that use PWM to regulate output levels, the full current is always being drawn. It’s just not always being drawn all the time. Basically, power to the LED is just being switched on and off at a particular frequency. This results in a perceived decrease in overall brightness, even though each time the LED is switched on it is technically at full brightness.
I dont build drivers so I dont know exactly, but for current regulation, you need more parts on the driver board and/or more complex programming of the software.
Got one of these yesterday - it’s a lot chunkier than I was expecting, and came, in excellent shape, very well packed in a strongcardboard box (with a P60 drop-in), in record time. Just 8 days from China.
I was planning to use eneloops, but didn’t much like the AA carrier. It’s strong enough, but the tinny contacts look a bit meh. I even managed to put the AA batteries in the wrong way first of all. Fixed that, and put the carrier in the wrong way before I noticed the + and - markings/ Doh!!
Fortunately I ordered a sleeve for a 18650, and used that. Had a quick play with the dogs in the back garden, and it’s pretty bright (to say the least). Surprised it still worked after all the messing about I did.
Diameter is 40mm, and the height is about 36mm. Close, but no cigar. Thanks for the effort though
EDIT: Fired off an email to Hank at IO, but I’m not holding out much hope.
I love this C88, and the throw is excellent, but I’d also like to be able to get a little more flood out of it when the situation calls for that. In other words, I want to keep both options, so spraying the reflector is not really on the cards (although I guess I could always obtain a spare SMO reflector and go to work on that one).
I cannot believe so many people are getting bad Cyclones. Seriously . . . 1.07 amp? Mine pulls over 2.80 intitially and settles down to around 2.75 and is bright as heck. You need to get a refund or exchange and after as long as it has been, Hank needs to get ahead of this.
I strongly recommend and then everybody gets a lame light. I'm lovin' that, for sure.
I got 2 KingKong INR26650 and one Trustfire 26650 5000mAh, and all them gave exactly those same numbers, 1.07-0.33-0.05A
The C88 hotspot at 3m on wall has same brightness as the HD2010 on med level. No strange as HD2010 measured 3.9-1.03-0.13 on same cells.
I wrote to Hank in PM here and will wrote him on his store too, then will wait a few days for an answer. I understand he could be busy or away for a few days.
I just hope I don't have to swap the driver by myself, because I've read that the pill is pressed in and mine is firmly pressed, I could not move at all by hand. Don't want to rush and ruin it.
Foy don't be embittered, you reviewed what you had in your hands. I see the full potential of this light is as you described, the beamshot shape and size are really good, the assembly and finish are good too. If one or few or some are "defective" due to a bad set of drivers, I can not really blame the seller. I don't think Hank (or Ric or any of those small sellers we know) has a QC line to test all flashlight are exactly per spec before packaging.