I asked as I thought you maybe knew the difference between the various versions.
Mine has a single capasitor at the bottom.
Because you got the Atmel kind, I just ordered 3. The last time I ordered I got the PIC type but I have hopes that the PIC era is over now.
Glad I can help you sixty545. I myself are thinking of ordering a few more to
swap with some of my other drivers which dont deliver so much punch like
this one.
so I orderd this driver for my xml drop-in..what about the positive contact spring? is it long enough for the p60 module to make contact? or do I solder on another spring..the contact patch isn't large enough for the tupical p60 spring..confused...
It is possible by fiddling to have the driver do this (mode 2):
Hi 2450mA (kill an amc)
Med 1200mA
low 100mA
I bet not but it does not hurt to ask right?
I had to solder a lengh of copperwire on the end of the spring to make contakt. No big deal as you are to solder anyway.
Works fine now in all my lights.
Do you happen to have a picture of the mod with copper wire?? I’m just trying to grasp what was actually done…thanks
Does anyone know if the diode is in series with the 7135's as well as the MCU?
Am just wondering if the diode drops the voltage to the emitter, or whether it is just in series with the MCU to protect it.
Thanks.
I just took a small piece of thick cobberwire. Bented it, so it formed a loop. I then
put the 2 ends into the spring and soldered them to it. The loop now protutes from the
spring about 5 mm.
The last is true. Only the MCU.
Thanks for confirming this.
I have just installed a 105A in a XM-L T5 light
I get 2.5A tailcap (got about 3 A with same batt in direct drive)
Any ideas on how to squeeze the last 0.3 A out of the driver? (bypasing the diode?)
and does the driver self needs additional cooling?
btw. I like the memory function with blink confirmation
Probably you have bad multimeter
What is "blink confirmation"?
The linear regulators are pretty accurate in letting exactly 2800mAh through as long as the battery can deliver 2800mAh and there are not bad connections or undersized leads to the LED. I'd suspect the multimeter leads too, partly because 3A seems low for direct drive of an XM-L. Other people have been getting more like 4A, but it really depends on the battery.
This driver produces a "Blink" to confirm that memory has engaged
I have just got the 105C 5-mode version and it does not have the "blink".
With a slightly bad connection my multimeter reads 2.5A as well. The max I was able to get (with x-l) is 2.64A.
I guess there is some variation on the current the 7135s provide. However, I doubt I’ll notice the difference in 2.8A and 2.6A by eye.
///What is "blink confirmation"?
After 2 seconds in a new mode it blinks once (turns off for a milisecond) as an indication that it remembers the setting the next time you put the flashlight on.
///The linear regulators are pretty accurate in letting exactly 2800mAh through as long as the battery can deliver 2800mAh and there are not bad connections or undersized leads to the LED. I'd suspect the multimeter leads too, partly because 3A seems low for direct drive of an XM-L. Other people have been getting more like 4A, but it really depends on the battery.
Thanks, it is not the leads I now they are quite accurate. I also get 4 Amps on other XM-L (T6) lights in direct drive.
Maybe it is the T5 that does not draw as much current in dd .
///I guess there is some variation on the current the 7135s provide. However, I doubt I'll notice the difference in 2.8A and 2.6A by eye.
must be the sum of the components used (wires, connections, etc.) that increases the resistance. I agree the difference is next to nothing.
Don't do direct drive with an XM-L, first you get less light at 5A than at 3A , beside that the emitter was ruined permanently after a brief test...now give at 4A less light that what before the test gave at 3A...
So bad I learn the hard way lol
Also the 'R2' from DX is in the table compared to stock RC-G2's and KD one...
humm disturbing
I had similar experiences with an P7 in the past (did not had the output as before, after overdriving it)
the T5 I have has a consistent output on par with my T6 leds on the same current , only it never pulles beyond the 3A (no problem though, most standard Li-ions don't like above 2C currents) and I noticed that a 700+ lumens is too bright for close distance uses. That is why I have put the driver in the flashlight so my eyes can have some rest.
Have second thoughts about ordering those amr18650 batt. after your post though.