Hi,
Sorry, not really into the scene nowadays, so i need to ask questions. 
I have a J12, so this new driver is a direct fit needing no mods?
The 5 XM-Ls in the J12 are wired in series? (i thought they were in parallel)
So this one would drive each XM-L in the J12 at about 2.5-2.8 amps? 
And lastly, what would the current draw at the tail with 2S and 3S? I reckon 2S is really going to be really hard on the cells (even 26650s)
Don’t want to get the X100, so this would be great as a 5 XM-L DRY!
Hi,
Sorry, not really into the scene nowadays, so i need to ask questions.
No Problem… ask away!!
I have a J12, so this new driver is a direct fit needing no mods?
That still remains to be seen for sure. It definitely looks like a drop in replacement, or near-to that with a little file/dremel work.
The 5 XM-Ls in the J12 are wired in series? (i thought they were in parallel)
They are DEFINITELY series wired.
So this one would drive each XM-L in the J12 at about 2.5-2.8 amps?
Thats what it claims, but again… that remains to be seen.
And lastly, what would the current draw at the tail with 2S and 3S? I reckon 2S is really going to be really hard on the cells (even 26650s)
If its anything like the OEM stock driver in the J12, its a regulated boost circuit. It takes either 8.4-12.6V and boosts it up to about 15-16V for the 5-XML in series. So its lowest current draw will be with fresh 4.2V cells. The stock TR-J12 draws about 29 Watts (3.5A at 8.4V). Stock driver current draw increases (substantially) as the cell voltage drops in order to maintain the ~29 Watt pull. I have measured peak current at ~6.5-7A when my 26650 cells deplete.
Transposing that over to this new driver that pulls ~55W, equates to a 6.5 current draw at 8.4V (55W / 8.4). If its designed like the OEM J12 driver, current pull will increase as cell voltage drops in order to maintain a ~55W pull.
Don’t want to get the X100, so this would be great as a 5 XM-L DRY!
I kind of see it like that too… short burst only at the highest settings.
Yea, the 100% will be a minute or 2 at max, 75% could be for maybe 5-10 minutes, 50% will be closest to the max on the J12 as it is stock so will probably use that most. Also, like I said, PWM frequency is 1 kHz on these 5 mode ones, so should not see much if any PWM flicker on the lower modes, unlike the stock driver 
Hi Kramer, how do you twist this portion off? It’s very tight, and i could not do it even with rubber gloves.
Yeah I used rubber gloves, gripped it and gave it a twist. The rubber gasket makes a TIGHT seal and they dont lube it or anything so its on there TIGHT.
Sorry for my English.
Some thoughts about the driver of the “”Kaidomain”:http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020417”.
The most important thing is to protect against overheating above 50-55C
I tried to connect a 12V car battery. Currents immediately begin to fall, after 4 min current is 1.2 A (14.4 W to the driver). Dipped into the water head torch, the current up to 2A (24W to the driver).
Wow! thanks for sharing those thermal images lishat, and welcome to BLF! Can you please share information about your thermal imaging setup?
Welcome to BLF
Please tell us for thermal camera setup and about measurement. What I can see you noticed high temps around 62. It is at 100% power from driver or lesser?
WOW thats some impressive analysis… 19C increase at the 6:00 mark.
x2… was that done using the 100% setting? I would expect higher than 50C with a ~55-60 Watt driver.
cant wait to see lumen measurements with the new driver installed.
also that thermal imaging is awesome!
Is 60°C worth worrying about, considering max. operating temp for XM-L’s is 150°C?
Looks like 2:00 runs are pretty good with this new driver. Something like the DRY.
It's good to have you here, Ilshat!
can we just like stick whole bunch of copper wires in the springs and stick bunch of solder in there almost making it solid ? lol 
Flashlight working at maximum capacity, here are the LEDs on the thermogram of the time.
Installation on the thermal camera was by default, “factor of the black body ɛ = 0,97” “70% humidity.” I do not know what “factor of the black body” at the LEDs, torch, probably between 0.8 and 0.95. The following thermograms at different «ɛ».
I measured the currents in dependence on the heating flashlight. Household devices are not calibrated, but quite accurate.
After heating the flashlight I dropped it in cool water.
Diagram of currents from the car battery 12.5 V.
I do not know what it means 7A (7A * 12.5 V = 87.5 W) O_o
So at the ~1 minute mark, power draw drops to 31.5 Watts, and for most of the run its drawing less than 25W.
Is that the drivers thermal regulation kicking in?
X100 doing 38W, with 2S! And its a 7 x XM-L so that’s even more efficiency. Calculated from ergotelis measurements then it could be 3800 lumens OTF in real life.
Not sure if i can stick the J12 tube into the X100 head. It looks like it though……
Looks like the X100 has something like the 7 LED driver version.
so the j12 and x100 only differs the head cause of 7 vs 5 leds ? but the x100 loooks alot brighter isnt it mayb because of the wide head or better drivers ?