That’s cheap. Cheapest i have seen on aliexpress was 50 bucks.
I got the X100 for $119. Charger (useless but well i’ll keep it), 4 x Trustfire 26650 protected which is a $44 dollar value and so the light is $75. Not too bad.
I can use the 26650 for my J12, JM05 and JM07. I feel safer than using the KKs.
The X100 should be able to do 3800L OTF stock with 2 cells. (assisted by 1 dummy via PVC 18650 sleeve stuffed w foil). The J12 tube does not fit the X100, confirmed by bro dong of thaicpf/flaslightmania.
That is insane! What’s the heat management like on high? The output is mind blowing, but the body doesn’t look like it’s made to handle such high temperatures and looks like it could do a bit of cooking!
Oh! I see you already answered that while I was typing. But then you answered it - Again.
Thank you for the answers. Just what I was hoping for. And what a deal some of you guys have made on this light. Sweet!
Be careful. Its 70W for the initial 30s or some before kickdown on the driver due to thermals. Might just burn the LEDs ont he J18 and similar. As you can see the X100 is much chunkier. Usually dong’s temp starts at 30 deg C or so. (Bangkok)
Slewflash - on high it heats up pretty fast, becoming very hot to the touch at around 5-6 minutes. The fins around the driver section get hot first, but pretty quickly the heat travels down the handle. The reflector is a huge chunk of aluminium screwed into the body, so I’d have to say the torch handles heat pretty well. I’m yet to experience the driver throttling back due to being too hot.
Theres some OUTSTANDING thermal and power analysis on this driver in the TR-J12 in this thread here…
It starts out drawing 88W (!!) at 12.5Vin for the first ~60 seconds, then power consumption drops to 25-32W for the rest of the run.
I'm looking forward to your photos. Just remember that anything that burns up or blows up is replaceable (in the flashlight that is). I have just built a JM05 running 5 amps and keep a fire extinguisher handy. Seriously though very interesting.
I wonder why these drivers do such a thing, and the drop is it due to thermal regulation. Maybe someone can do that IR thermal scan on the components.
88W is not good for 5 LEDs definitely, it is worse than the DRY plus the immediate thermal mass is still in the DRY league. Luckily there is no strobe function…… If there is then the LEDs could fail very fast. I killed 3 this way. (the one which started it all, Sky Ray SR3800, which in my copy with the DRY driver it has much lower resistance so can quite a bit more current than the DRY).
In the DRY, you might measure 4A at the tail in steady state modes, but in strobe it goes much higher. Seems like the batteries are not taxed and can provide much more current during the ON state. Of coz that’s the early 3-mode driver. Luckily this new 5-LED driver excluded the strobe mode, else it might be the same.
I am 99% sure all discussion and analysis in that thread was regarding the 5-LED driver in a modded TRJ12… at least no one indicated anything otherwise.
I have not used it for that long on 75% mode so I don’t know. I tend to use 50% or lower for long runtimes (- even 5% is adequate to be honest) and the ‘big boy modes’ (75-100% of course) for… ahem … impressing people/dominating large areas/arousing attention from neighbours several houses away
youve got me hooked, i just ordered a driver for my trj12 from KD
for $20 cant go wrong
for anyone interested edcplus is carrying 3.7ah 26650 cells for $15 a piece. A little expensive, but a good reliable us source. I picked up 3 for the new driver. They are rated at 10a discharge rate (20a max continuous)
i wonder if the 7led driver in the x100 would get too hot lol … someone is bound to try it
I did the same damn thing, separated the boards on accident, I dropped it and pulled the pad off on one of the spots, exactly like yours. How did you resolder it and fix it?
It’s so easy to do, isn’t it! Just ensure that you make at least one red-to-red and one blue-to-blue connection (see the photo) between the boards by soldering a small amount of 18-20 AWG wire between them. I also pulled out the pins that attach the two boards with pliers also, and just soldered the contacts at the bottom. Don’t worry if the spots come off, just solder to the nearest available contact point that was touching. Good luck.
Got mine done, only pulling ~3.5 A on high, so probably messed up somewhere, lol. Gonna talk to E1320 about sending it to him to fix all my mess ups, lol.