The switch is very easy to operate also with gloves if you need full on / full off. Anything in between requires small moves, which might be a bit difficult depending on the glove type. On the other hand, the switch glides well if lubed, making it easier to fine tune the output.
You are right that the knurling is not very aggressive. It feels secure in hand also when wet, but I haven't gone diving with the light yet, so I can't give you a definite answer..
Thank you for the review the. Good and thorough as always.
It certainly the cheapest diving flashlight with anything xml, modes and easy UI I’ve ever seen. Thank you for sharing this.
The pill is hollow, but quite heavy (= middle section is thick enough):
It sits tight and nice in a slot (it's a bit up because wire pushes it, levels down when tightened).
Pill is tightened down with a large enough retaining ring:
Secondary thermal path is via aluminum reflector, which sits on top of the star. The reflector has wide flat surface, which is in contact with the head walls:
Reflector upside down in the head. Note the tight fit and flat bottom surface (to be in contact with the star):
All in all, I think this design is good, and would be suitable also for higher currents. Of course some Fujik (or similar) can be added to make sure that surfaces are in perfect contact.
Hope this clarifies the thermal path. Just ask if you have any additional questions.
Thank you for going the extra mile as you have to show us how it handles heat. That was a lot of work. The reason I was curious is because I tend to use my diving lights more out of the water than in. So knowing some thought went into this light by the manufacturer to assemble a quality product is important. I just had some major upgrade/maintenance performed on my boat, so it’ll be back in the water on Monday. My friends and I are planning some diving next weekend so I’m going to place an order for this one, but I doubt it’ll arrive in time for this dive, but I’ll surely have it for the next one. Thanks again.
the has covered everything very well. Mine draws 1.5 Amp on high.
The reflector is about the same diameter as a C8 but is a few milimeters longer. The beam pattern is similar to a C10 or Keygos KE-5. That is, the hotspot is a little tighter.
The O rings at the tailcap are air-tight, when I pull it off, it makes a “plop” sound.
The slider switch on mine is nice and smooth and will not move due to shock, however, the switch sticks up quite high and is easy to change modes if your hand touches it accidentally. Also the modes are quite close together in distance. I have to be carefull when trying to select a mode other than high.
The light tailstands well and the low mode was used as room lighting by me recently when a thunderstorm caused a power outage for 3 days.
As the has said, the Off position on the slider has parasitic drain so it is important to loosen the tailcap before putting the flashlight away. On mine, it only takes a slight twist to open the circuit, much less than a quarter turn.
I don’t know anything about drivers for use with a magnetic switch like this. It would be nice if it was possible to install a driver with a 3A or more setting.
I thought to buy this light (i think it can be bought, same light, from ebay, and from dinodirect too) and give it to diver friend for testing purposes.
But somehow Im hesitant, didnt yet pulled the trigger, I’m ordering to many samples in last days.
If I do it Ill post results here.
First light I have him for testing, Keygos S2 (currently available from manafont, 8mm glass on the front, without keygos label), it leaked in second dive, he thinks through the glass….
Maybe, just maybe leaking can be solved but I dont know yet (buy adding some aditional orings under the glass and by tightening screws holding it….
If anyone wants to test it, before each “dive”, friend says, even professional diving lights need to be lubed (thats supposedly even stated in their’s instructions). So, dont forget to do it.
Anyybody has some more info about this light in diving conditions? (sorry if Im annoying, but I plan to buy some light really for diving, and Im searching for reviews and experiences. This one looks nice and price is great but I dont know anything about its diving capabilities)
I have a new (supposedly) dive light that I'm reluctant to review because I don't dive, nor know anyone willing to take my light down to depth. I'm pretty sure I cannot confidently claim it won't flood, following a dunking in the Foytub. (phantoms 18-inches)
Still, dive lights, or those claiming to be dive lights facinate me. To me, recommending something whose failure could potentially have catastrophic consequences is a serious thing. I'm also curious if something so inexpensive could be trusted in a mission critical environment. (for lack of a better term)
The only things that make a dive light different from any other flashlight are the seals at the switch, the tailcap and anywhere else it screws together and the thickness of the body (prevents crushing). Right?
This light has a thick heavy body and a magnetic switch that does not permit leakage at the switch or pressure damage. Ordinary switches will not work because high water pressure will press the switch down and hold it.
The glass is thick and strong.
If you wanted, you could use epoxy to glue together all parts except the tail cap.
The tailcap is air tight and has 2 heavy O rings.
If you use heavy and sticky grease on it, I bet it works.
Just about any flashlight is fine as far as the walls. The o-ring issue isn’t about just thicker ones or adding more. It’s about a proper design for where the o-ring sits.
Switches for the most part need to be either magnetic (nothing to leak) or twist. Water pressure activates (and leaks) with most other type of switch.
Glass thickness is important as it relates to depth and to how robust the light will be (can you bang it around without causing a leak).
In a light designed to be a dive light most leaks if they occur come from the front.