Review: NANJG 105A 2800mA driver

This driver produces a "Blink" to confirm that memory has engaged

I have just got the 105C 5-mode version and it does not have the "blink".

With a slightly bad connection my multimeter reads 2.5A as well. The max I was able to get (with x-l) is 2.64A.
I guess there is some variation on the current the 7135s provide. However, I doubt I’ll notice the difference in 2.8A and 2.6A by eye.

///What is "blink confirmation"?

After 2 seconds in a new mode it blinks once (turns off for a milisecond) as an indication that it remembers the setting the next time you put the flashlight on.

///The linear regulators are pretty accurate in letting exactly 2800mAh through as long as the battery can deliver 2800mAh and there are not bad connections or undersized leads to the LED. I'd suspect the multimeter leads too, partly because 3A seems low for direct drive of an XM-L. Other people have been getting more like 4A, but it really depends on the battery.

Thanks, it is not the leads I now they are quite accurate. I also get 4 Amps on other XM-L (T6) lights in direct drive.

Maybe it is the T5 that does not draw as much current in dd .

///I guess there is some variation on the current the 7135s provide. However, I doubt I'll notice the difference in 2.8A and 2.6A by eye.

must be the sum of the components used (wires, connections, etc.) that increases the resistance. I agree the difference is next to nothing.

Don't do direct drive with an XM-L, first you get less light at 5A than at 3A , beside that the emitter was ruined permanently after a brief test...now give at 4A less light that what before the test gave at 3A...

So bad I learn the hard way lol

Also the 'R2' from DX is in the table compared to stock RC-G2's and KD one...

humm disturbing

I had similar experiences with an P7 in the past (did not had the output as before, after overdriving it)

the T5 I have has a consistent output on par with my T6 leds on the same current , only it never pulles beyond the 3A (no problem though, most standard Li-ions don't like above 2C currents) and I noticed that a 700+ lumens is too bright for close distance uses. That is why I have put the driver in the flashlight so my eyes can have some rest.

Have second thoughts about ordering those amr18650 batt. after your post though.

Hello,
I've got a question: how can I make this driver only 1 mode?
I guess I need to bypass the MCU but which outputs of the MCU should I short circuit?

If you look at the first picture, you have to connect the lowest leg on the 7135 to the right with the top of the diode just below. A blob of tin could do it.

Then I would advice you to cut the connection to the MCU pin 7 or just clip the leg. It is the leg no.2 from the left in the upper row. You can see that it is connected to the blob of tin you just applied.

If you do not cut that leg, the MCU will struggle to pull the voltage down and use a lot of current maybe even give some smoke.

So you see it is quite easy, blob and cut.. Just be sure that it is really the 105A that you have.

Good soldering and welcome to the forum, hope you enjoy it.

thanks a lot, I'm already enjoying the forum a little while and it's my favourit :)

I will use this driver to build 1 mode flashlight based on L2 with an XML T6 and current 2,1A (for longer use considering the heat dissipation issue).

I'll also try to change the programm in the MCU to customize the mid level to 1,5A (found on other topic in this forum).

Aloha and welcome to BLF nazgool!

Glad to hear it!

Welcome to BLF and I hope you continue to enjoy your visits here.

Very interesting, thanks for the excellent details

1st welcome nazgool!

I wonder if youre capable of running 1h nonstop at 2,1A in the l2 host without overheating? I immagine you disabled 2 amc to get to 2,1A correct? Well if you did how much does mid an low draw now?

Where did you get this 105C version?

At KD.

Nautic: could you post a clear pic of both the front and the back of this 105C driver?

I cant show the led side as it sits in the pill, but the batteryside is here:

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/2784/driverz.jpg

how do you remove the modules to lower amperage? is it just as simple as desoldering the right amount of modules? does it matter which ones? I want to drive an xpg with this driver..do I remove 4 modules to make 1.4a? can the xpg take 1.75a with 3 modules removed?

thanks

Instead of fiddling with small items try this or similar:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260599140613&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_3232wt_1009

thanks Nautic..I already ordered the 2800mah one..wish I would have known about this driver before..so to mod the 2800mah one is it just deoldering the modules? if I mess it up ill just order that 1400 mah one..

edit: the ebay driver seems to be 1-mode correct? I needed multi-mode so this wouldn't have worked..