Is anyone willing to sell the following modified driver:
- Nanjg 105c base
- 3.5A max (2 stacked 7135’s)
- 3 mode: 5%/30%100%
And this is the important one:
What I would really love to have is a 8.4v driver that has 5 modes with memory in a 16mm or 17mm base
Modes would look like this:
Mode 1: 5 lumens
Mode 2: 60 lumens
Mode 3: 200 lumens
Mode 4: 500 lumens
Mode 5: 3.4 - 3.6 amps to the led
Or even better, 5 programmable modes that ramp up like the Jetbeam IBS so I can configure each to my liking.
Or can one of you mod this driver to put the 5 levels or ramping feature I ask?
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S005296
Who can do this for me? Paypal at the ready!
AlexGT
So what’s the going rate for a simple single mode, XP-E R2/R3/R4 drop-in driven fairly hard?
It would be used for a critter gun.
Don’t know if the driver experts are watching this thread, I posted what I needed but so far no one has answered, maybe PM them
Sent… for both of us 
Thanks!
I have no experience with XPEs but I can make you a single mode driver. If have to add 7135 chips to a driver I charge $10 bucks for it shipped mostly because it’s real easy to wreck them when trying to add chips.
I don’t know of any good programmable 16 or 17mm 8.4 volt drivers and I have no idea how to make a Nanjg drivers memory switch modes when you shut it off like the Manafont driver .
Just a 4.2v single mode XP-E R2/R3/R4 drop-in. Probably 6 x 7135? It’s not really that custom unless you consider a single mode driver as custom. Just wondering if I need to buy all the parts myself or if it can be done easier.
Just a 4.2v single mode XP-E R2/R3/R4 drop-in. Probably 6 x 7135? It’s not really that custom unless you consider a single mode driver as custom. Just wondering if I need to buy all the parts myself or if it can be done easier.
If you can solder just get a 6x7135 from KD and run a jumper from the first 7135 chip to the positive wire out and that will bypass the microcontroller and give one regulated hi mode. You can also strip two chips of of this single mode driver I linked it’s much easier than adding chips.
http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020064
http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S004338
I use these from 4-6 7135 chips when I go above 6 chips I use a Nanjg 105c and either strip or add chips with the jumper wire to bypass the microcontroller.
Thanks for the help. I’ll either go with that or a KD V2 6 x 7135 and solder it to 2 modes with no memory.
Is anyone able to help AlexGT?
I have the ability to flash Atmel ATTiny13 based drivers. I’ve used Tido’s code for some, but also built some of my own programs. I’ve programmed some drivers for some members on here, although the only person I can think of right now is mattthemuppet. I should put together a list of the different features I can add in to each program, although they are not nearly as advanced as what Tido and DrJones can do.
If you are in the US and in need of a driver with specific levels/modes, different mode switching, memory/no memory, etc., shoot me a PM.
AlexGT
Not something that I can do, only because you want to run 8.4v. See DrJones’ first post - for these NANJG105C drivers, you only want to be running one lithium-ion cell (I can run them on two primaries ~6v, but I’m not sure about the longevity due to the extra heat created).
+1
The ideal voltage is in fact a single LiIon cell (4.2V). Even though as soon as you put a load the voltage of 2x CR123 cells will sag and you will have a little less than 6 volts, you are going to still have significantly more loss as heat than with a single LiIon cell - no way around it as the 7135 is a linear current driver. If the current were fairly low, and there is a good thermal path for the 7135’s, then you can run 2x CR123’s for a long while and not cook the LED driver to death. As the current gets higher, without a thermal path, the current from the 7135’s will drop as temperature increases.
In fact, I have a customer who has a special project, and I made these boards for that project:
Even at just 1Amp (3x 7135’s) and input voltage of 5-6 volts, if I leave the board “on air” - with no heatsink of any kind, the current drops from the 1Amp to about 400-500mA in about less than one minute. I even got my neighbor (also a flashaholic) to come over and see it as well as I could not believe how quickly it happens. If you look at some of the websites selling the higher-current versions of the 7135-derived designs, some of the more responsible ones are starting to list 4.5Volts as the maximum operating voltage for those drivers.
But even if the heat was not a problem with the 6V input, you still couldn’t go higher than 6V since the 6V happens to be the absolute maximum input voltage for the 7135 IC’s and for the Tiny micro-processor as well. To go higher than 6V you basically need a different circuit/regulator, typically a buck DC-DC switching power supply.
Will
Has anyone ever made a driver to power 4 LEDs (or 4 dies of an MCE) independently?
I made a new driver firmware called lupodrv; it’s more customizable than luxdrv and with a nicer UI. Updated my post above (#1).
I’ve looked high and low across all the internets and I still haven’t found what I’m looking for…
My project involves running a single XM-L2 off a 3.6V LiPo. I’m more concerned with battery life than Lumens, which is why 350mA is adequate. The driver would ideally have Hi-Med-Lo (controlled by PWM) and low-voltage-triggered dimming (at 3.1V or something), but no automatic shut-off. Mode memory would be cool, but is not a must. Anybody have something along these lines?
By the way, I’m looking to purchase 100+ of these.
You might try to PM Dr.Jones. Super nice guy.
E1320
when you run the jumper cable on the KD V2 driver as illustrated above, thus by passing the controller and making it a current regulated single mode, then is the low voltage warning also eliminated??
I presume when you do this it only runs on high power mode?
if not, is there a way to eliminate the low voltage feature on this driver?
thanks
On the KD 4x7135, Can you just add the 7135 chips to the spring side?
I added 4 7135’s to the blank pads but I still only get 1.5A.
Is there something else that needs to be done?