Thank you for the review the. Good and thorough as always.
It certainly the cheapest diving flashlight with anything xml, modes and easy UI I’ve ever seen. Thank you for sharing this.
Finally, a diving light which is not overpriced!!!
Nice review. Let us know that it’s like on a night dive it you do one.
It looks like you could use either cave line or 1/8” bungee to tie on a bolt snap to clip on to your chest D ring.
I checked the thermal path. Looks good.
The pill is hollow, but quite heavy (= middle section is thick enough):
It sits tight and nice in a slot (it's a bit up because wire pushes it, levels down when tightened).
Pill is tightened down with a large enough retaining ring:
Secondary thermal path is via aluminum reflector, which sits on top of the star. The reflector has wide flat surface, which is in contact with the head walls:
Reflector upside down in the head. Note the tight fit and flat bottom surface (to be in contact with the star):
All in all, I think this design is good, and would be suitable also for higher currents. Of course some Fujik (or similar) can be added to make sure that surfaces are in perfect contact.
Hope this clarifies the thermal path. Just ask if you have any additional questions.
Hey The,
Thank you for going the extra mile as you have to show us how it handles heat. That was a lot of work. The reason I was curious is because I tend to use my diving lights more out of the water than in. So knowing some thought went into this light by the manufacturer to assemble a quality product is important. I just had some major upgrade/maintenance performed on my boat, so it’ll be back in the water on Monday. My friends and I are planning some diving next weekend so I’m going to place an order for this one, but I doubt it’ll arrive in time for this dive, but I’ll surely have it for the next one. Thanks again.
First of all: Sorry about the quality. Exposure was adjusted for King / APEX, so this might be a bit dimmer than what it was in real life.
2.0s, f/5.0, ISO80, WB Daylight
Control
Magnetic control diving light (highest setting)
Magnetic control diving light (lowest setting)
Compared to XinTD C8 v3 NW (mouse over for XinTD)
Bonus shot: Beam pattern in water
Very nice! Thanks so much for the review. Frontpage’d and Sticky’d.
And what about underwater abilities of this light???
I have one of these that I got from Ebay dealer tomtop….
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290718077151?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&\_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
the has covered everything very well. Mine draws 1.5 Amp on high.
The reflector is about the same diameter as a C8 but is a few milimeters longer. The beam pattern is similar to a C10 or Keygos KE-5. That is, the hotspot is a little tighter.
The O rings at the tailcap are air-tight, when I pull it off, it makes a “plop” sound.
The slider switch on mine is nice and smooth and will not move due to shock, however, the switch sticks up quite high and is easy to change modes if your hand touches it accidentally. Also the modes are quite close together in distance. I have to be carefull when trying to select a mode other than high.
The light tailstands well and the low mode was used as room lighting by me recently when a thunderstorm caused a power outage for 3 days.
As the has said, the Off position on the slider has parasitic drain so it is important to loosen the tailcap before putting the flashlight away. On mine, it only takes a slight twist to open the circuit, much less than a quarter turn.
I don’t know anything about drivers for use with a magnetic switch like this. It would be nice if it was possible to install a driver with a 3A or more setting.
Yeah everything is here except most important - how this light acts underwater :0
I am not a diver myself, but maybe someone who is will tie a rope to it and lower it into the water for a while.
Then we can see how well it works as a lithium powered depth charge. :cowboy_hat_face:
I thought to buy this light (i think it can be bought, same light, from ebay, and from dinodirect too) and give it to diver friend for testing purposes.
But somehow Im hesitant, didnt yet pulled the trigger, I’m ordering to many samples in last days.
If I do it Ill post results here.
First light I have him for testing, Keygos S2 (currently available from manafont, 8mm glass on the front, without keygos label), it leaked in second dive, he thinks through the glass….
Maybe, just maybe leaking can be solved but I dont know yet (buy adding some aditional orings under the glass and by tightening screws holding it….
If anyone wants to test it, before each “dive”, friend says, even professional diving lights need to be lubed (thats supposedly even stated in their’s instructions). So, dont forget to do it.
ALso, one question, this light from the review is clone of that XTAR diving light?
And this would be 2-cell version of same light http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/stepless-brightness-control-xml-t6-200m-diver-flashlight-2x18650-p-7353?rp=816766 ?
ISnt this exactly the same light?? 大龙网_跨境电商B2B商机平台_移动端跨境贸易新体验
Anyybody has some more info about this light in diving conditions? (sorry if Im annoying, but I plan to buy some light really for diving, and Im searching for reviews and experiences. This one looks nice and price is great but I dont know anything about its diving capabilities)
I have a new (supposedly) dive light that I'm reluctant to review because I don't dive, nor know anyone willing to take my light down to depth. I'm pretty sure I cannot confidently claim it won't flood, following a dunking in the Foytub. (phantoms 18-inches)
Still, dive lights, or those claiming to be dive lights facinate me. To me, recommending something whose failure could potentially have catastrophic consequences is a serious thing. I'm also curious if something so inexpensive could be trusted in a mission critical environment. (for lack of a better term)
divelightdummyFoy
The only things that make a dive light different from any other flashlight are the seals at the switch, the tailcap and anywhere else it screws together and the thickness of the body (prevents crushing). Right?
This light has a thick heavy body and a magnetic switch that does not permit leakage at the switch or pressure damage. Ordinary switches will not work because high water pressure will press the switch down and hold it.
The glass is thick and strong.
If you wanted, you could use epoxy to glue together all parts except the tail cap.
The tailcap is air tight and has 2 heavy O rings.
If you use heavy and sticky grease on it, I bet it works.
You choose.
Just about any flashlight is fine as far as the walls. The o-ring issue isn’t about just thicker ones or adding more. It’s about a proper design for where the o-ring sits.
Switches for the most part need to be either magnetic (nothing to leak) or twist. Water pressure activates (and leaks) with most other type of switch.
Glass thickness is important as it relates to depth and to how robust the light will be (can you bang it around without causing a leak).
In a light designed to be a dive light most leaks if they occur come from the front.
As I understand diving lights are not always so critical for safety., YOu not always need dving flashlight in conditions wich are so dark or something that this would compromise your safety.
Thats one thing - and other thing - I just cant believe that it is oh so difficult, if you have resources, to design really waterprooof diving flashlight. I just cant imagine (and I have storng imagination 
) that this is so hard.
I think thats more question of hastiness, that Chinese make all these things to hasty, to fast, and design them to hasty, and diving light s are the stone on wich they stumbled, because they are tricky by themselves (they mustnt leak )
I dive at night (often) and deep and I don’t consider a dive light “life support” equipment. I also always have a backup light so that concern is overrated IMO.
It’s not hard to design a dive light. The main problem with the Chinese lights is that those designing the lights aren’t divers and divers as far as I can tell don’t test them.
They just use a pressure pot so that the light can experience the same pressure it will experience at depth.
It’s not hard to design a dive light but it is hard(er) to take a light that isn’t designed as a dive light and make it a dive light.
If it doesn’t have the proper o-ring cut out design behind the lens then you are left with marine grade silicone sealant or epoxy as the method of sealing.
If the switch is a “clicky” type it is going to leak and depending on type it is going to either always be “on” or always be “off”.
How much the light cost has nothing to do with how good a dive light it is however.
I replaced a $300-$400 HID dive light with a $100 Chinese LED dive light.