I have mixed different AMCs and it worked.. if that's any help for you.
Welcome to the family, MosesM!
Welcome to BLF MosesM!
No, I didn’t soldered the middle leg, just the larger tab as you say.
Anyway, the flashlight is now done, 3050mA is OK…
I am curious about how the modes rotate... a while back I installed the driver to a V6-T60, selecting hi/med/lo modes, no memory. However if I stay at any mode longer than a sec or two, then to go to the next mode I have to half-click twice. So for example I start on high, if I leave it a bit and want to go to med I half click twice. If I leave it at med and want to go to low I half-click twice again. If I do it fast I can rotate through the modes with a single click. Is this normal mode behavior?
My Nanjg 105 works the same and another one (brand/model unknown) too.
Another possible reason for having only high mode. The led+ pad is adjacent to the Vdd pin on one of the chips(large ground tab on top, bottom right pin is Vdd). If the pad is shorted to the pin with solder you will get only high mode, leaving the controller screaming in the closet.
does anyone have a diagram on how to slave 2 of these boards together?
thanks
I used the 1500ma board to drive a xre p4 warm white. I set it to 3 modes lo-med-high with mem, but it has lo-med-high but no memmory but im sure i didnt get something correct on that. What I did notice is that if I half clicked six times when i was in low fast that on the next half click it would go to strobe then to sos. then if i left it off for a minuted then it went back to only have 3 modes only lo-med-high.
Its like it has hidden modes. Has anyone ever experienced that before?
hi gang
- does anyone have a diagram/info on how to slave 2 or 3 of these drivers together?
- also, can the low voltage cut off / protection be eliminated??
thanks
Did anyone succeed turning KDv2 into SINGLE mode with current regulation still in place ???
I did look at Intl-Outdoors NANJG 105c and it shows pretty clear how to turn that one into single mode (remove two small components marked with R1 and R2 as well as control 8-pin chip, then solder together three upper-left points where the chip was… as well as capacitor on the other side…
http://intl-outdoor.com/amc71358-1mode-circuit-board-nanjg-105c-p-643.html
Anyone tried it yet with KDv2 ???
Looks like yo haven’t connected any bridge. Your driver is still in the default 10-mode group:
lo - med - hi - lo - med - hi - strobe - warning - sos - beacon
So I got the 3040 ma version of this and tried it out and I only get high. I checked all my solder points and everything looked good. I originally soldered S1 for memory and S3 for high > med > low and all I got was high. Then I de-soldered both S1 and S3 and I still only got high. I might have heated up some of the 7135 chips when soldering on the neg and pos wires. I don’t know what is wrong with this thing. I’m about ready to take off the 7135 chips and throw it away. This is my first time messing with swapping drivers. I had no problem re-installing the old drivers and they work fine.
Make sure you didn’t bridge the LED - wire to the outer ground ring on the driver, I believe that will leave you with one mode at direct drive.
Also make sure that same wire is not grounded to the pill.
Thank you, that was my problem. Now I got it working, but low isn’t working. When I go from med to low, it flickers and then nothing. I can’t figure out what is wrong with it.
Hmm, high and med but no low, you got me on that one. When you say nothing happens do you mean the light turns off or remains on medium?
Turns off, but when I half press the button it will switch back into high. I have no idea. I think I am just going to solder S3 and S2 to get high and medium only.
Just received 5 of these from KD….pretty impressed so far
I (wrongly ?) assumed that “regulated” meant the LED current would remain fairly constant until the battery was flat……looks like I was wrong on this assumption as it drops markedly between 4.2 and 3.6V ……comments ?
But I believe current to the LED should remain in regulation until battery voltage falls below forward voltage of the LED. After that it effectively becomes direct drive, on high anyway.
Yes, that is what seems to be happening…….some driver circuits boost the current to keep it the same until the battery is totally flat (I believe they are known as boost / buck regulators)….that is what I was hoping for but I can live with it 
Some manufacturers sort the 7135’s in bins. I have a NANJG 105 with 7135’s marked “35V”. This stands for 350 mA.
You can see on the picture of the KD V2 driver that the 7135’s are marked “38K”. This is the 380 mA bin.
Thanks
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