The pill is hollow, but quite heavy (= middle section is thick enough):
It sits tight and nice in a slot (it's a bit up because wire pushes it, levels down when tightened).
Pill is tightened down with a large enough retaining ring:
Secondary thermal path is via aluminum reflector, which sits on top of the star. The reflector has wide flat surface, which is in contact with the head walls:
Reflector upside down in the head. Note the tight fit and flat bottom surface (to be in contact with the star):
All in all, I think this design is good, and would be suitable also for higher currents. Of course some Fujik (or similar) can be added to make sure that surfaces are in perfect contact.
Hope this clarifies the thermal path. Just ask if you have any additional questions.
Thank you for going the extra mile as you have to show us how it handles heat. That was a lot of work. The reason I was curious is because I tend to use my diving lights more out of the water than in. So knowing some thought went into this light by the manufacturer to assemble a quality product is important. I just had some major upgrade/maintenance performed on my boat, so it’ll be back in the water on Monday. My friends and I are planning some diving next weekend so I’m going to place an order for this one, but I doubt it’ll arrive in time for this dive, but I’ll surely have it for the next one. Thanks again.
the has covered everything very well. Mine draws 1.5 Amp on high.
The reflector is about the same diameter as a C8 but is a few milimeters longer. The beam pattern is similar to a C10 or Keygos KE-5. That is, the hotspot is a little tighter.
The O rings at the tailcap are air-tight, when I pull it off, it makes a “plop” sound.
The slider switch on mine is nice and smooth and will not move due to shock, however, the switch sticks up quite high and is easy to change modes if your hand touches it accidentally. Also the modes are quite close together in distance. I have to be carefull when trying to select a mode other than high.
The light tailstands well and the low mode was used as room lighting by me recently when a thunderstorm caused a power outage for 3 days.
As the has said, the Off position on the slider has parasitic drain so it is important to loosen the tailcap before putting the flashlight away. On mine, it only takes a slight twist to open the circuit, much less than a quarter turn.
I don’t know anything about drivers for use with a magnetic switch like this. It would be nice if it was possible to install a driver with a 3A or more setting.
I thought to buy this light (i think it can be bought, same light, from ebay, and from dinodirect too) and give it to diver friend for testing purposes.
But somehow Im hesitant, didnt yet pulled the trigger, I’m ordering to many samples in last days.
If I do it Ill post results here.
First light I have him for testing, Keygos S2 (currently available from manafont, 8mm glass on the front, without keygos label), it leaked in second dive, he thinks through the glass….
Maybe, just maybe leaking can be solved but I dont know yet (buy adding some aditional orings under the glass and by tightening screws holding it….
If anyone wants to test it, before each “dive”, friend says, even professional diving lights need to be lubed (thats supposedly even stated in their’s instructions). So, dont forget to do it.
Anyybody has some more info about this light in diving conditions? (sorry if Im annoying, but I plan to buy some light really for diving, and Im searching for reviews and experiences. This one looks nice and price is great but I dont know anything about its diving capabilities)
I have a new (supposedly) dive light that I'm reluctant to review because I don't dive, nor know anyone willing to take my light down to depth. I'm pretty sure I cannot confidently claim it won't flood, following a dunking in the Foytub. (phantoms 18-inches)
Still, dive lights, or those claiming to be dive lights facinate me. To me, recommending something whose failure could potentially have catastrophic consequences is a serious thing. I'm also curious if something so inexpensive could be trusted in a mission critical environment. (for lack of a better term)
The only things that make a dive light different from any other flashlight are the seals at the switch, the tailcap and anywhere else it screws together and the thickness of the body (prevents crushing). Right?
This light has a thick heavy body and a magnetic switch that does not permit leakage at the switch or pressure damage. Ordinary switches will not work because high water pressure will press the switch down and hold it.
The glass is thick and strong.
If you wanted, you could use epoxy to glue together all parts except the tail cap.
The tailcap is air tight and has 2 heavy O rings.
If you use heavy and sticky grease on it, I bet it works.
Just about any flashlight is fine as far as the walls. The o-ring issue isn’t about just thicker ones or adding more. It’s about a proper design for where the o-ring sits.
Switches for the most part need to be either magnetic (nothing to leak) or twist. Water pressure activates (and leaks) with most other type of switch.
Glass thickness is important as it relates to depth and to how robust the light will be (can you bang it around without causing a leak).
In a light designed to be a dive light most leaks if they occur come from the front.
As I understand diving lights are not always so critical for safety., YOu not always need dving flashlight in conditions wich are so dark or something that this would compromise your safety.
Thats one thing - and other thing - I just cant believe that it is oh so difficult, if you have resources, to design really waterprooof diving flashlight. I just cant imagine (and I have storng imagination ) that this is so hard.
I think thats more question of hastiness, that Chinese make all these things to hasty, to fast, and design them to hasty, and diving light s are the stone on wich they stumbled, because they are tricky by themselves (they mustnt leak )
I dive at night (often) and deep and I don’t consider a dive light “life support” equipment. I also always have a backup light so that concern is overrated IMO.
It’s not hard to design a dive light. The main problem with the Chinese lights is that those designing the lights aren’t divers and divers as far as I can tell don’t test them.
They just use a pressure pot so that the light can experience the same pressure it will experience at depth.
It’s not hard to design a dive light but it is hard(er) to take a light that isn’t designed as a dive light and make it a dive light.
If it doesn’t have the proper o-ring cut out design behind the lens then you are left with marine grade silicone sealant or epoxy as the method of sealing.
If the switch is a “clicky” type it is going to leak and depending on type it is going to either always be “on” or always be “off”.
How much the light cost has nothing to do with how good a dive light it is however.
I replaced a $300-$400 HID dive light with a $100 Chinese LED dive light.
Perhaps we should make a thread discussing what makes good diving flashlight design and let’s hope manufacturers/dealers take notice.
Some things I got from reading in this forum. One is that you can’t have mechanical clickies so magnetically/electronically controlled switches is the way to go. Two, can’t use the metal body of the light as part of the circuit. Three, it should accommodate at least two batteries for longer run times. And four, o-rings, o-rings, and o-rings.
What’s the weakest point in diving lights where water commonly seep in?
It would be from the front of the light since in a well designed light there either wouldn’t be any other place for it to come in or if the light is made of several pieces (and could theoretically leak) it doesn’t with any kind of reasonable o-ring design.
So, it’s the switch (but this isn’t an issue with a well designed dive light due to the kind of switch chosen) or it’s front water pressure against the front lens letting water get behind the lens due to a bad o-ring design in the head.
Typically, a good design is a groove in the head on a ledge which you drop in an o-ring so as pressure (on the front glass increases) the o-ring has no where to go and compresses to counteract the forces pressing against it.
Therefore, the deeper you go the more pressure against the front lens the more the o-ring compresses and … no leaking.
Many backup dive lights are made of only two parts…a body and a screw-on head (and front lens of course). So there is no switch to leak.
You fully screw the head in to turn the light on and slightly unscrew it to break contact and turn the light off. In this design you have a long section of threads connecting the head to the body with thick o-rings (sometimes 2 although multiple o-rings isn’t necessarily better).
The best backup dive light I have is made of Delrin for the body and metal for the head. The lens is 6mm thick and the head diameter is only about 30mm.
This light is a tank in effect. It’s the Ultrafire W300 from DX and it’s $36 using 3 AA’s and a XP-E (XR-E?). It’s a nice, tightly focused light. Since it uses primary batteries you don’t have to remember to charge it so it’s alway ready (it’s a backup after all).
I clip it to my shoulder strap and have a small bungee around the head as well so I forget that I even have it on.
For a primary light I use rechargeable batteries (18650) and two are needed IMO since a typical dive is close to an hour and it’s not uncommon to do two dives back to back.
For a primary dive light I’d like for it to have a magnetic switch. The one thing to tells me that most Chinese lights aren’t really designed by a diver is that many of them still have crenelated bezels which are totally useless (and a hazard) on a dive light.
Sharp edged heat fins are a nuisance as well and aren’t needed since the light is being used in water. Frequently the front glass lens isn’t as thick as one would prefer for a dive light.
This is all basic stuff so for the manufacturer to not realize this means that no one has a clue about diving.
) that this is so hard.