Ok, let’s stick with ballpark math and disregard efficiency of the driver at the moment so I can wrap my mind around the before and after wattage compared to each other.
If I use the math Kramer5150 is using:
3A x 4.2V = 12.6W
1.5A x 8.4v = 12.6W
1A x 12.6v = 12.6W
On three freshly charged Trustfire 3000mah cells I get a tailcap reading of 1.95A:
1.95A x 12.6v = 24.57W
Compared to E1320’s 3.8A on three cells:
3.8A x 12.6v = 47.88W
So about twice the wattage output.
Am I looking at this correctly?
Yes, except the math you are attributing to me is actually how Kramer5150 does it. I would have just taken Erik’s 3.8A at the tailcap and tripled it (3 cells) to get 11.4A at the driver. If you want watts then multiply that times 4.2V for 47.88 watts.
In short, Erik’s modded X6 consumes almost twice the power as stock. Definitely over driven but definitely bright.
Oops, sorry JohnnyMac. There were so many quotes within quotes that I got a little dyslexic. Edited above.
I have a direct drive Dry, a UF980L dd and a Fenix LD01 using a 10440. If I give them an 8 on a scale of 1 to10 for overdriving, what would you give this upgrade?
sorry deleted I think i might be confused as usuall. I think that i am usuing the wrong voltage to calcualte the voltage i should use is the output of the driver not the voltage of the batteries……… uuugggghhhhh that would make my calculations alot better… lol
If that is correct would someone please straighten me out….lol
As soon as i receive the head i well post beam shots. I dont understand why some people are saying the led is not receiving 11.4 amps. E1320 had test equipment to check things including the amps.
I don’t think anyone is questioning E1320 at all. I completely understand what he is doing with his numbers.
Example: I have checked the tailcap amps on a single XM-L driven by a single 18650 so many times that I know if I read 4A, I know the LED is being driven hard. If I check the tailcap amps on a single XM-L driven by two 18650s, I double it to reference what I am familiar with.
I hope that makes sense.
I look forward to your beam shots and thanks for starting this thread.
The discussion was about me simplifying the measurement on your 9 amp driver saying it in fact pulled 11.4 amps on my simplified measurement technique that has become the standard way of measuring flashlight energy consumption when purchasing drivers or taking tail cap readings.
For some reason Kramer felt it necessary to convert the numbers to watts which is a far more accurate and proper scientific way to measure actual energy consumption, but will surely cause confusion to someone new to this field of measurement when trying to simplify the change in output you should expect to receive in this modified light.
If for some reason you are unhappy with the work I did on your light I will happily refund you the $5dollars I charged you for installing the 9amp driver that actually delivers 11.4 amps using the measurement technique the driver manufacturer advertised it as.
The only thing I modified was the dummy board I had to remove it and use the one off of the X6 which was about twice the size and weight of the stock one. I also used larger diameter wires than the ones that came with the driver. I am not sure if that made the difference or not. Bear in mind the thermal protection on these drivers tends to kick in early and ramp down to a more conservative level.
Yeah I miss-read Chris’ original post, where a lot of what he’s talking about is emitter current (or current delivered to the emitter).
I wasn’t disputing Eriks build or the results at all… although I think my post came across that way.
When it comes to this hobby, I always think of things in terms of power first. Power drawn from the cells, power through the driver, and power sent to the LED (or multi-LEDs). Its not always the easiest way to look at things, and it can get confusing too.
Thankyou you guys the head arrived at my local post office today and should have it with me very soon. So tonight i well go down to the park where it is pitch black and try out my newly modded x6. I dont have a pro camera just a normal digital camera so dont expect the shots to be very good. I well do my best on getting the best pics possible. I forgot to mension i well measure how far the beam well throw using google earth.
Hi, I have in my hands a dead x6.
I really have no idea how to replace the driver. I can only see a white plastic with a brass pill in the centre and a brass ring around it. How can I reach the driver?
The brass button that touches the battery unscrews so grab it with pliers and unscrew it. Next jam an appropriately sized flat head screwdriver in the hole were the button screws in and pry up on the white plate going around in a circular motion until the white plastic plate pops off, go easy so you don’t crack it. Once the white plate is off there is an outer ring that holds the metal dummy plate in. Drill 3 holes at 12 4 and 8 o’clock in the dummy plate near the outer ring. Use a dent puller or sheet metal screws and some vice grips and pull up on the dummy plate until the outer ring comes loose and the dummy plate will come out and you can now reach the internals to replace the driver. As long as you didn’t damage the outer ring the dummy plate or the plastic plate you can reassemble it with no signs of tampering.
