I’ll post a photo of the threads to see if there’s a difference between them.
The threads have to be anodized on this light. Only by rotating the tail cap back and forth is the only way to switch modes. The only thing with all these O-rings is the rotation is a bit tight, but otherwise I really like it.
Also, LUX was 420 lux on HIGH mode.
Thanks Richie086. “Also, LUX was 420 lux on HIGH mode.” I wonder what that is in lumens?
300winmag - how about yours? Are they really NOT anodized?
On my particular example Trustfire dual bay 26650 charger that came with the light, it would only charge the Trustfire 5000mAh batteries to 4.10v. This charger has the 3.0v and 4.2v dip switch setting, and of course was set to 4.2v. So I removed them and have placed them in my single bay 4Sevens 26650 charger. At least I’ll be able to get them to a full charge now.
My bad, The threads for the tail cap “ARE” anodized, the threads that go into the head are “NOT” anodized. I had the head off one light and just assumed it would be the same on the other side.
So for the bad news…
The reflector module for one light is loose and I need forceps that have 2 prongs to tighten a ring that seals the glass over the reflector. I found a nice pair of scissors that fit perfectly but the ring will not tighten any more. So the people from “Online Store 711140” (the company I bought them from on Ali Express) told me if it is tightened all the way then there is nothing more they can do, they assured me it won’t leak though. But I can hear it rattling around in the light when I shake it…. I guess I just won’t move it fast.
And for the bad bad news…
One light died today, yup toast. I had them both on high for 5 mins while getting the positioning right for making my dive tray and the light with the good head just went out. I turned it off and back on, nothing. I removed the tail cap to take out the batteries and was assaulted by the nastiest burnt electronics smell I’ve ever come across.
After smelling it a few more times for curiosity sake I took the batteries out and swapped them with the other lights. Nada.
LEDs look fine, looking down in to the light I can’t see anything wrong. I am about to open a dispute with them.
EDIT: I for some reason cannot open a dispute, I guess when I contacted them about the rattling noise they knew I received the package so they closed the books for disputes. I will see what they say.
Richie086: Are you saying the chargers that come with the lights do not charge them to there full potential?
Wait so the batteries don't work in the other light now?
Neither of the four batteries will work it the said light. All four will work in the other light though, that and the smell lead me to believe the board is toast.
Yeah the driver fried. You could probably contact them and ask about getting another driver board.
I just sent them an email explaining what happened, we shall see.
If they are going to send just the driver board maybe I can get them to send me an upgraded one with more power, no SOS and a ramdomizing strobe :bigsmile:
I really liked the features and the, what appeared to be, heavy duty build quality and I almost bought one of these. Glad I waited. I will be watching to see how this plays out. Fried electronics? Fried batteries? Sloppy/loose lens on a “dive light”? Good luck gentlemen!
The batteries are fine… 
300win - Was a poor connection the cause for early LED fatality? Im kinda close on pulling the trigger
unless someone thinks otherwise.
A set of O-rings for this beast runs about $16-20 bucks…
Hey 300, sorry to hear about the problem with your light. I’ll keep a close eye on mine and let the forum know if I encounter any issues. I took some beam shots last night and all seemed fine. I’ll post them later.
As for the charger that came with mine, it’ll only charge the batteries to 4.10v. You’d have to try yours out and see if it does it too. Still, it’s nice to be able to charge two 26650’s at the same time. To top them off, I just toss them into one of my other chargers.
Just a side note… I prefer to under-charge my 26650 cells a little. My hobby charger peaks at 4.15V, and the cells settle to ~4.13V. In theory it should extend the life of the cell, although I sacrifice a little run time.
Hi folks,
I took some beam shots comparing light output to a few other lights that members have. Unfortunately they all beat the Trustfire TR-DF003, but I still like the light just for the fact it’s 2x26650 and very heavy duty and it can be used for diving.
I don’t consider this a shootout, however, I did expect the TR-DF003 to rate at least as well as my Skyray 3xT6 3800 Rev O, but even the Skyray out shined it by what appears to be about 200 lumens or greater.
Trustfire TR-DF003 - Tailcap reading at time of photo, 1.97a
Trustfire TR-J12 - Tailcap reading at time of photo, 4.16a
FandyFire HD-2010 - Tailcap reading at time of photo, 3.55a
SkyRay 3xT6 3800 Rev O - Tailcap reading at time of photo, 2.95a
Thank you very much for the beamshots!!
Looks bright but i think not enough.
What do you think? Is that possible putting J12’s driver the this light ? Will it make the lumens higher?
Thanks
Hi Hit,
I think it’s the exact same size driver as the J12. But I haven’t yet taken apart my DF003 to get a precise diameter of the actual driver.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I tend to find diving lights to be not driven very hard and stay mainly on the efficient side in order to achieve several hours of use. But I have no doubt this light can be modified to be one heck of a bright light. The mass alone should easily allow it.
I’d say BLF member, POK was correct about lumens output. Assuming my Skyray 3xT6 3800 is putting out about 1800 lumens, it’s a safe bet the TF003 is about 1500+ lumens as is.
Hi BLF’rs.
First post here. I found this forum while researching dive lights. I’m amazed at the amount of info available here.
Just picked up my new tr df 003 from MF.
The machining is very nice. Anodizing flawless.
From what I’ve read here I was concerned about the O-rings.
First thing I did was take the tail off and grease the threading with the supplied lube. I’ve had the tail off about 3 times since.
Looks like the O-Rings are crap. They are very stretchy and light weight. Someone here mentioned that they may be too fat to seat properly in the groove and as a result are sliced up by the threading. I think this may be the case. Mine are already toast and I haven’t even taken it for a dive yet.
I’ve purchased a replacement set of rings for the body(Thanks Nowell) but won’t have them for another week or so. No way I’d take this light diving the way it is.
Around here (Mid Vancouver Island)almost all other divers are using Princeton Tech or Underwater Kinetics lights. I’m really looking forward to switching this thing on underwater. From what I’ve seen from this light on land it will easily blow these other lights away. As long as it doesn’t flood on me!!!
Welcome aboard JP. This is a pretty good place to hang out to feed your sickness.
Welcome to our club, JP!!