Review: UltraFire HD2010

I’m not sure I get the significance of an o-ring around the pill. What is that for? Thanks. Nice review by the way!

Actually, now that I think about it, I'm not sure why either but it did come with an o-ring around the pill so, had to report it. It was very thin so I replaced it.

Why would they put an o-ring there? Seems like that would hamper heat trasfer a bit, if anything.

hmmmFoy

Good question, mine had that too. I dont think it serves any purpose… “maybe” its a way to help snug everything up if a run of lights has a bad tolerance stackup that doesn’t add up?

Has anyone measured lux numbers of this powerhorse?

It’s now $33.52, with US based shipping. I’m just saying…

http://www.tmart.com/UItraFire-CREE-XMLT6-8W-1300-Lumen-5-Mode-LED-Flashlight-Gray_p135765.html

http://www.tmart.com/UItraFire-CREE-XMLT6-8W-1300-Lumen-5-Mode-LED-Flashlight-Black_p135768.html

In B L A C K, less than 3 weeks ago --- Black was PREMIUM Priced >$40, (I think)

is the tmart hd 2010 just as bright as the manafont one? or are they all the same?
im looking to buy one.

The only reason I would want a driver swap on this guy is to get rid of the flashies. It already pulls up to 5 amps.

Foy

I have been wondering the same thing. Do all HD2010's from everywhere have the same driver?

goodquestionFoy

TangsFire from DD, for <$34. Someone said that, but, if I remember well, drivers were absolutely identical :expressionless: Quite strange.
Does someone have 15% off for TMart? :stuck_out_tongue:

Yes they are all the same component wise same driver emitter etc… The Internationale Outdoor one had a darker grey color that I liked better than the light gray Tmart one but the Black one looks best in my opinion.

Mine pulls 2.25A, but that is on an 18650 battery…I have no 26650’s yet.

Hey, troop, thanks for the info :slight_smile: Which one do you have? (from TM, DD, other? Ultrafire? TangsFire?)

It’s the T-Mart one. I just popped a fresh Rev Jim’s 18650 into it and got 3.25A with no compression and 3.8A when I pushed it down and compressed the spring.

Go figure.

I tested mine again in stock configuration last night and came up with pretty much the same results. Before from memory it would only pull 2.7 amps. This was from a Tangsfire version. At 2.8 amps this thing still rocks.

I ordered these from MF hoping for a nicer action switch and to my surprise the switch on the board is identical to the standard switch. The only difference is the board is a slightly bigger diameter which can be filed down no problem and the spring is slightly different which should also not cause any problems.

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-replacemnet-tailcap-switch-component-5pcsset-p-7451

Link, please :slight_smile:

Stupid me. Link added.

Who do ALL of the descriptions EXCEPT on tmart’s website say: “Circuitry: Digital Regulated 2300mA Current Output”

For SURE these different websites MUST be using different drivers, or something!!!

I guess I’ll just order the black one from tmart to be sure :frowning: http://www.tmart.com/UItraFire-CREE-XMLT6-8W-1300-Lumen-5-Mode-LED-Flashlight-Black_p135768.html

I sure hope she pulls 4amps at least!

-Jamie M.

When the cell voltage is higher, that causes the LED to draw higher current, which trips the protection circuit. If your cells were more depleted, or had higher internal resistance (from being old or cold), the current would be lower and the protection would not need to kick in. It’s not your light, it’s your cells. If you really want to use those cells in that light, you might be able to if you just don’t put them in hot off the charger. Put them in when their open voltage is lower (“condition them” for use this light by taking down their charge a bit in another light) and I’ll bet you find the protection doesn’t kick in and kill the circuit. You could also try adding some resistance to the circuit (oxidize the tailspring and or the threads a bit for example).