Hi kramer, the strobe function in the SR king is a ‘hidden’ function. When you cycle through modes normally with the electronic switch it goes like this: High -> Med/Low -> Off. You can cycle through a hundred times and you will only ever experience high and low.
However if you want strobe (which nobody does) while it is on you hold down the button for ~2 seconds and then it will switch to strobe mode, another click of the button and it returns to high, then you can cycle through as normal.
The SR king is a great utility light because of the wide spill beam, so if you’re using it to walk your pets at night it’s great (I prefer floodier lights over throwy lights when I am by myself at night as it makes it easier to pinpoint a moving target if necessary [I know, I’m paranoid.]), plus the has rated it to be a tad brighter than the Apex, and coupled with the almost non-existent thermal sag and perfect ratio of flood to throw it’s one of the lights necessary to be in your possession.
EDIT: The side switch is also excellent for one handed operation, now you can just keep a firm grip on it as long as you want.
Ric, for what it’s worth I’d suggest a total re-visit of this light.
Big heatsink behind the emitters.
Drive these out to about 2.8-3 amps each.
The reason I say this is that this light is obviously a good design, well built and has the size/build to cope with higher output.
Except the guts obviously need some serious tuning to allow that.
At the moment it’s a great lloking beefly light that doesn’t compare to some of it’s compititon (King, Dry, TJ12).
It should really be a light putting out between 2700-3300 lumens of the face.
Totally understand the dollars would skip up, but it would be worth it. You could let us know the price and we’d get numbers,
but as she is, there just isn’t enough performance difference to justify pulling the trigger. Build, looks and function do.
So when this was originally released, how high was it driven?
I’ve got the original DRY triple (non boosted Turbo, just the H/M/ L strobe settings) and I’m now looking for something a tad bit brighter and I think that this maybe it.
Im not sure if Ric formally released the 2nd driver. As per Ric the driver will output 8.5 amps
When i do get the new driver i’ll test it on my bench before soldering it up. Makes it much easier
to test the output
Like a few members have mentioned the tacticool handle is a pretty nice feature. Although
in pics its seems like it can get in the way. Great snug grip and serves as a hook so you can drop the light outside of your pocket and the handle hooks well in your pocket…
Waterproof? I would go to Ric for answer. I have taken it apart, and with very good tolerances my guess is no
Ok, i said this i have read on seller page on allibaba said: Perfect for, campign, diving, etc…
So i now know. it’s false and she’s not waterproof, thank you for making me econnomy XD
It seems most flashlight builders (cloning ??) build their flashlights for increase sales / fight with another product other than practical possibilities of usability, durability.
Real world result show it underperformed than King which is more thermally enhanced.
Increase number of emitters doesn’t make noticeable improvement. but more buyers interested it because 5 emitters
Also im wondering why those manufacturers doesn’t put 0.1$ or even less worth thermal compound between emitter board and pill. checked few C8 clones, zoomies all without thermal compound.