It comes with Side switch. It’s our typo. Only Upgrade JM07 has 2 switchs now.
UI is like this:
1. Press side button, turn on the light.
2. Hold the button till the light flicker once, the mode goes to Stepless brightness. Press and hold the button; Current will step down from 3000mA to 50mAh.
When it goes to low brightness, Hold the button till the light flicker once,Press and hold the button; Current and brightness will rise up from 50mA to 3000mAh.
3. Click the button twice when the torch is on, UI goes to 3-mode(hidden). Strobe>Alarming flash>SOS
Hi Cainn, I’m sure it must be an option. IOS is selling them too and actually shows the bezel as an option. I think I’d opt for the non-crenelated bezel myself.
Hi Ric,
Does It has memory mode?
I mean when I set brightness to 50% and then take out battery, That brightness will be 50% or anything?
I don’t like Ultrafie UF-T50, It has no memory mode. When I take out battery . It will start at High mode.
Thanks.
Although I’m impressed by this torch, I’ve held off on ordering due to a nagging concern. I’ve really come to rely on being able to quickly switch between programmed output levels. I don’t want to have to ramp all the time to get an output level suitable for any given situation. What would make this torch perfect is the ability to program at least 2 (preferably 3) output levels and switch between them. This doesn’t make the ramping feature redundant of course since it would still be useful for fine tuning when the need and/or desire arises.
Yeah, I had a ramping light before (nitecore) and it can be a PITA to go up and down depending on the application. But inasmuch as I use my lights exclusively for fun/recreational use, I usually like to show-off and have my lights at full brightness to start anyway. But if one uses it for work or other serious matters I can see how ramping could be a cumbersome, even dangerous delay.
That said, if this thing is near as bright as claimed (1k lumens?) I’m definitely going to get one. Of course, it’ll probably only be half as bright - darn Chinese lumens!
It’s really a question of whether or not the driver actually does provide somewhere close to a maximum of 3 amps to the star. If it does, and you’re using decent batteries, then the actual output really would be somewhere close to or perhaps slightly above 800 lumens once losses are factored in.
Something like this can help you calibrate your bullshit detector reasonably well. You just have to hope that the figures given for current draw are reasonably accurate.