Well I received my light the next day after the "missent" status (my address was correct on it, the USPS just goofed.
I really really like this light. I think non-flashaholics would be very very impressed! It's very similar in size to the HD2010 (see below). 26650 (King Kong Raised Top INR) fits nicely (no slop, but also not tight). The 4AAA carrier seems like it could use beefed up, but it probably helps throttle the current back a bit. That carrier fits pretty well too. O-rings were cheap, but functional. Threads are typical cheap Chinese quality, but ok once lubed.
There is no real "pill". The "pill" is part of the flashlight body (not sure if this was brought up or not). My emitter popped right out as soon as I popped off the plastic centering ring (worst emitter mounting I've ever seen). Like mentioned by others, the thermal grease was on the bottom center of the star, but not really around the edge where it makes contact with the "pill" lip. There is plenty of available depth to the hollow section of the "pill" between the driver and emitter. I checked what copper plumbing parts I had to see if they would fit inside the hollow opening, but a 1/2 end cap is too small and a 3/4 end cap is way too big. It appears that 3/4 copper pipe will fit snugly inside and then find something to cap the end of it with such as a copper penny (or cut a piece of flat copper). I'd probably do the trick of packing bare copper wire inside and filling it with solder.
It runs on both 4AAA alkalines (cheap ones) and NiMh just fine and is quite impressive!
Tailcap Currents:
4AAA NiMh (Cheap Rayovac LSD) fresh off the charger:
Hi: 2.80A
Med: 1.57A
Low: 0.83A
4AAA Alkalines (Cheap Harbor Freight)
Hi: 2.30A
Med: 1.26A
Low: 0.67A
King Kong INR Raised Top (@4.14v)
HI: 3.80A
Med: 1.85A
Low: 0.90A
Seems to me the driver is direct drive on high, +/- 50% medium, & +/- 25% low. I wish medium and low were lower. Seems that when it's off for awhile it comes back on in high. Tint is a nice cool white, not blue, purple, or green. Currents do elevate when pressing the battery in tighter to compress the B+ spring. I couldn't notice PWM myself, but the camera display was showing it (flickering) on low mode.
Few photos and beamshots:
Shots comparing it to my Ultrafire HD2010:
Shot next to my Poppas W-878 (battery carriers are in front of the opposite lights & King Kong raised top INR inside the UltraOk):
Beamshots: Camera on same manual settings for each one. 19.5 feet to the garage door. All shots on 4AAA NiMh. Truth be told, I took the beamshots with one of my AAA NiMh's being about 1/2 to 3/4 discharged. I charged them all up after the beamshots and retook current measurements (I think hi was around 2.50A, maybe 2.30A during this shot.)
Beamshot on Low:
Beamshot on Medium:
Beamshot on High:
Photo Album link here.
-Garry