Interested in the next BLF/Manafont custom light?

Any chances to have pocket clip?.. For me, an EDC light without clip is not desirable

The baser Farka is a nice light - my vote would be for a ramping driver - the UF-H2 driver would be fine though it would be nice if it ramped more slowly and flashed at both ends. I'd like an XM-L - drawing a maximum of 1.5-1.8A on high from a 14500 - decent NiMHs should be good to 8-9A though obviously this means a short runtime on high (10-15 minutes for an Eneloop)

I'm not fond of 2AA or 3AA designs, so extension tubes are not an issue for me.

Those farkas seems pretty sturdy:

http://www.zhongwin.com/Factor43/html/?27.html

And a mini review of the stock form:

http://edcforums.com/showthread.php/77781-FARKA-E09-V3-casual-mini-review-

Is it me or the review light looks bigger?

I would also like a pocket clip, but I'm not sure how much that would raise the price. I imagine that modifying the basic structure of the flashlight would be the most costly. Unless it was a sort of slide-over sleeve clip, or an Akoray K-106 style clip that is anchored between the tailcap and the midsection.


So the answer is YES, I wanna new BLF flashlight

1. Maximum reasonable price

$20-30 for a XP-G R5. $35 in case the body is very good made (true HAIII) + good coated lens.


2. LED type

R5 with SMO reflector. R5 is floody, so if you put OP reflector, it will be more floodier. I think SMO will conserve throw a little better. But SMO only if the beam pattern is without rings (I remember Don's review of UF U20, with R5 and SMO. As far I remember, he reported very ringy beam profile)


3. Mode arrangement (quantity, order, and approximate lumen output for each mode)
L-M-H or M-L-H. or only one with variable output. No party modes. Will be great to have turbo mode also, at 1,3 or 1,4 A (for a brief use only)

With memory function arrangement isn't important.

4. Mode memory?

Preferable yes


5. NiMH and 14500 support

Both


6. LED tint

Whitest possible with good color reproduction.

Other thoughts:

- some drivers that works with both AA and 14500, modes can be differently spaced when use AA or 14500. Xeno E03 for example: with AA, modes are well spaced, but with 14500 M and H are almost the same, and no L. In this case, one mode with infinite adjustment will be the solution (ITP C7 and other for example), so tactical version is a must for me in this case, I mean momentary on.

- size: no preference, but will not mind a bigger one if the beam will have better patter or better throw

- would be great if it can tailstands

- really want a good coated body. Would not mind paying a few bucks more.

- good regulation is a good thing for me

Heck, count me in. I wanna be in the custom light club. LOL

Honestly, I don't know enough about the specs to voice an opinion. I have faith in what others suggest. If it's going to be 14500, I'd like to know so I can combine that with my order that I'm about to place. I have 0 batteries in stock and 5 new lights on the way.

On second thought, can I vote yes AND get one of Match's XM-L?

1. $20-$25

2. XP-G or XP-E

3. 1, 8, 40, 100

4. Always start at lowest. I definitely, definitely, definitely do NOT want the light to ever start on high first.

5. 14500/AA - both

6. No real preference, prefer neutral white.

ok, im gonna go out on a limb, but we already have a aa/14500 BLF flashlight. i think its time for a diff base battery flashlight.

a small 18650 light should be next. something along the lines of the Olight T20 but able to fit an 18650. that flashlight is still one of my fav (xpg R5 version)

twist the head to change modes, forward tactical, HAIII finish. but it doesnt take 18650!

so thats where our manafont relationship should come in. a nice version of that thats cheaper! (well i got mine for 30 lol)

If you have any lights that are known to accept a 14500 (and not all that can, are advertised as such but it's best to rely on the experience of others before embarking on a journey of a thousand and one angry, blue LEDs ;)), I'd highly recommend you order a couple just to play around with. They're relatively cheap - I order mine from DX because they're known to sell the real thing and the TF 14500s (sku.26124 -- how weird is it, that I didn't even have to look that up? ) are one of the items that they actively try to keep in stock. There are some well-regulated lights that won't really benefit from a 14500 in terms of brightness but since most budget lights aren't, you might very well be impressed. The C78 on 14500s is one of my favorites.

Heh. Exactly my kind of thinking. :)

I guess you're right. If I'm going to be getting into my flashlight obsession, I'll probably need them at some point. Too funny that you didn't have to look up the batteries and you know them by SKU. OK, I'd better place my order for some batteries from DX so they get here before summer..........

I'm guessing the C78 is a light. Tell me more.

Never mind Oxy Moron - I looked it up on DX.

Hmm, had to google that one but that does sound interesting. As far as I'm concerned, I'm in as long as the light is reasonably priced and takes either a protected 14500 or one or multiple protected 18650s - 16340 compatbility isn't all that important to me, but, hey, as long as it doesn't significantly increase the cost of the light, that's always a nice bonus.

I don't really care all that much if it's going to have a strobe mode or not (I find them useful but it's not exactly a super-important feature IMHO) but as long as we have some input and unless there are any objections, how about a light without SOS, or make that "SOS"?

I often use the strobe modes on my lights for added visibility or for signaling purposes (much easier to spot from the air) and I can understand why so many people find them annoying, but I can't for the life of me think of any scenario where I would actually need a SOS mode.

1. Price: Budget light!!!

2. Led: XM-L

3. Battery: 14500 and NiMH

4. Modes: High, Mid, Low

5. Memory: No

5: Tint: Neutral

SOS is useless. i do agree, but strobe has possibly saved my car and my life lol

broken down car? slap it in strobe, point it towards traffic, and people slow down. something tough to do in New England. get someone to slow down lol

so yea, i just dont have a need for a 14500 light, because it doesnt save much on length, and the last one didnt save ANY on width.

i also HATE twist light. i dont understand why people love them. a flashlight should be operable with ONE hand. i carry a modded Aurora V6 (XM-L p60 mod lol) with a 2.8 amp shiningbeam driver, and an 18650 trustfire (one of only two that actually provide the current like claimed) the three modes are very useful, and perfectly spaced. i never carry the BLF flashlight because its battery dies just as fast, and only draws 1 amp!

why carry something that doesnt provide any advantage? high is dimmer than med on the V6, and battery life is LESS than high on my V6. only "advantage" is it takes AA. but at a loss of light.

well my V6 takes cr123, at a GAIN in output lol

JMHO

Yup, this one, to be more specific. It's a flood-to-throw light and it's not bad if you're using it as intended. It really does shine on a freshly charged 14500 though. You can read a bit more about it here, here and over at the DX forums (which are a bit of a mess). Just try to avoid the Osram version that FP had on sale a while ago. The latter is the version most eBay sellers are (re-)selling, by the way as it's cheaper.

I used to call South FL home so I know precisely what you mean. :D

I keep one of my 8-mode P7 lights in my truck for the very same reason (two regular modes, SOS, the rest are strobe modes).

im just curious, whats with the members fascination with 14500 anyways? lol

or really tiny lights?

I'm with you xP. Gimme something with 5,000 - 10,000 lumens and I'm good. Damn it, when I want light at night, I want some light. LOL

Not just size, but also being able to use an AA if you get caught short somewhere. Both the J4 custom and the Xeno/Farka that are being discussed have that ability.

Besides, having a lithium-ion only light necessarily excludes a lot of people unwilling to make that extra investment. At the price we're talking about for the light alone, a decent charger and a pair of protected 18650s doubles the outlay. Even something that supports CR123As is a stretch for me - I would be paying something like $4-$5 per cell local.

  1. Price - $30-40 if perfect (like said before)
  2. LED type - XP-G (XM-L isnt necessary)
  3. Mode arrangement (quantity, order, and approximate lumen output for each mode) - 1 mode, ramping with shortcuts, Think of D10 (hahhaa)
  4. Mode memory? remember brightness level, yes
  5. NiMH and 14500 support, Primarily NiMH, but 14500 would be nice
  6. LED tint Neutral all the way Anything between Cree tint 3-5

  1. Price - $30 if perfect (like said before)
  2. LED type - XP-G (XM-L isnt necessary)
  3. Mode arrangement (quantity, order, and approximate lumen output for each mode) - 2 mode, High 140 and Low 10, Head Tight/Lose respectively, Forward Clicky.
  4. Mode memory? remember brightness level by Mechanical mode selection
  5. NiMH and 14500 support, Primarily NiMH, but 14500 would be nice
  6. LED tint Neutral all the way Anything between Cree tint 3-5
  1. Maximum reasonable price - I'd go $20-25
  2. LED type - XPE R3
  3. Mode arrangement (quantity, order, and approximate lumen output for each mode) - 4 modes, Moonlight, low, med, high
  4. Mode memory? yes, but not critical if it isn't there
  5. NiMH and 14500 support - if ~150 lumens on NiMH, then I don't need 14500 support
  6. LED tint - not picky here

Good luck

Sam