Another broken ke-5..... :-(

hi, yes i also thought of that…… but if i can get a better driver in it id be much happier…especially if it ran at 3.4 amps!!! :smiley:

What diameter is the lens? 42mm 52mm? I’ll need a few of those too so I’ll just order a few coated lenses once we know the sizes….

Look at me, I almost sound like I know what I’m talking about… :bigsmile:

Probably will do nothing, but you may want to try not screwing on the tailcap all the way if you don’t have an unprotected battery. I have also found protected batteries in some lights to be just long enough to bend the spring over so it touches circuits on the driver. Other protected batteries sometimes do crazy things if you compress the circuit bard too tightly. Long shot but worth it.

My Jacob and hd2010 also have probs with protected batts. Will only work with unprotected cells OR like 5 TFFs for some reason.

I hate getting broken stuff especially since returning these Chinese lights is such a pain, so I know how maddening it can be, especially after waiting for weeks to get a light.

im not sure but think its a 42 mm, ill let you know for sure thursday as the lights are at my girlfriends and wont be there till then…
how many lumens will an xml put out at 3.4a by the way??!!

I’ll contact e closer to the end of the month, let us know the lens diameter and I can have a look round, and order some, once everything is ordered I’ll let you know and we’ll swap addresses, I’d say even if I ordered everything on the 31st, it won’t arrive till mid month, and I wouldn’t want the responsibility of someone else’s lights around my inquisitive 2 year old with a light fetish longer than necessary…. :bigsmile:

I wish I could do them faster for you but having just got back off holiday, and with no cash or supplies I’m a bit stuck :~

The only other thing I can suggest is look up torchy the battery boy on eBay, he posts here too, I only have his protected cells myself, but his unprotecteds are about a tenner a pair, might be worth a try in the mean time, good cells are never wasted I’m finding.

yes thats no problem at all…. im thinking i may get a couple unprotecteds now just to see if that changes matters but even so id still be wanting new drivers i think.

Good question, I don’t honestly know but at a guess between 600 and 800 realistically. I did think the ke-5 ran the east-092 direct drive driver.

Edit :- sorry this is delayed, my little four month old is teething….

yes thats exactly whats in it…. iv just ordered two of these to try in the latest one iv recieved………
unprotected cells

Good choice, i’ve bought a few things off Jim now and always been amazed with both his speed and feed back.

I would expect an email tonight and tomorrow, and another to let you know their in the mail. He’s really good with that.

If you want some protected cells, his 2800mah protecteds are really good. I hope the light works with these, but I’m still up for helping with a driver swap if you decide that’s the best bet. :bigsmile:

yeah well if the most recent one i recieved works ill measure at the tailcap and see what its running at…. if it works the other one still needs doing so there is at least one to do :slight_smile:

No worries, I just need time to work out which lights “need” a kick up the arse, then I can plan how many custom drivers and how many stock kd drivers I have to order…. Plus I want some u2 xm-l’s on 20mm stars…. I just got a keygos m10 that’s only taking 2.5a off a keygos cell (not tested the imr current, but it looks just about as bright and is definitely not an east-092 driver :cry: ) that one is begging for an e1320 driver tbh, otherwise I’m really happy with it. At least all the o-rings seem good so its only short a lube and respectable driver……

Is the ke-5 pill alu or brass? I really hope its brass or else I’ll have to try matches Ali soldering guide. The m10 uses a threaded brass retainer that I was very impressed with when I stripped it this morning, just less impressed with the 2.5a tailcap current and blinkies.

i think the pill is alu, this is a picture of the driver and the emmiter……… i dont know if you have taken one to bits before but i belive they are a pain…… :~

Ok, the driver has a thin brass ring around it, the star appears to be 16mm…… You may end up with my spare u2 too……

I should be able to strip it down, after all, some slave thre it together in China…

i think the driver is a push fit so im presuming it the led were de soldered and removed you could simply push it out with something rather than spending ages trying to pry it out. just had an email saying batteries will be in the post tomorrow…… cant wait to see how that turns out :) even if its not that at least i will know and its not like iv wasted money as the batteries will always get used :) if the parts are available it could be a really good light…. u2 and 3.4a :slight_smile:

8) I put a u2 in a c8 pill but its just not working out, needs a 20 mm star, therefore the 16mm u2 May have found a home. I’m intrigued, and if It’s soldered and glued, I’m not seeing removing it… So yeah, you may get a u2 model back. I honestly can’t wait to see how this all turns out tbh. :cowboy_hat_face:

No, no, a properly driven KE-5 is about 810ish OTF, no less than 755—and I may be understating as mine burns at 3.8 amps. I’ve compared mine with other powerhouses enough to be confident in saying so. With a Sanyo 2600 unprotected, mine is behind only the 980L and X8, and that by a slim shade. It’s a top-notch light. I’ll never get rid of mine.

But, Adys, what I’d do is use one of your KE bodies and convert an STL-V2 into a pocket super-thrower, as suggested.

Fair enough Joe, I didn’t want to over guesstimate, so I was a little short. How does it handle the heat at 3.8a? If its ok then the 3.4a (9x 380ma 7135’s if I have that correct?) Should be good yes? :bigsmile:

well the unprotected 18650s i ordered should be here tomorrow so ill know then about the second light to see if its the batteries…… ill also try them in the other but im not really holding much hope up for it working… then its onto driver swap time in 2 0r 3 weeks time :smiley:

>>>>>> to see if its the batteries……

It probably isn’t the batteries, but with me it is.

I have problems with ALL protected batts (except 5 TFFs for some reason) with the Sk98, Ke-5 and HD2010. I don’t have probs with protected 26650s for the HD2010, only the 18650s. With protected cells, those lights do NOT work. Even with Xtars. They flicker and go on and off, switch to blinking mode after a few seconds on high, all sorts of craziness. But the shared symptom is with protected cells: I click the clickie; there is a bright flash (high mode I assume) and then it goes into disco mode. If I keep playing with any of these lights, I can sometimes get ’em to work on low or medium power. But I don’t bother. I just use unprotected.

Better batteries anyway than the Tffs: Sanyos, Panasonics, Samsungs, Sony. They work STELLAR. First time every time. I’m totally not concerned with safety with GOOD unprotected cells in a one-cell light. I bet an unprotected Samsung is way more safe than the best TFF on the planet. IMO anyway. Two-cell lights, I always use protected.

well for £10 for two good unprotecteds it has to be worth a punt :slight_smile: i had issues with xtar 18700’s in my olight m3x, turned out they were a couple mm too long and the result was a flashing/non working light. if the unprotecteds dont work ill just get the driver swap done to see if its that… thats what i think it is to be honest and at least ill still have two good unprotecteds to use once i finally get them working…… which i will!!! :slight_smile: