Just for my own clarification, “hot off the charger” means the cells have hit 4.2v, give or take, correct?
Are the TF flames from a trusted supplier and genuine?
+1 on the new leads as well.
Yep.
Give or take, yes. They’re always a tiny bit below that.
There seems to be a huge difference in what people are measuring on their HD2010's. Mine still pulls over 5 amps on both of my DMM's with a King Kong XSL. If I touch the lead against the battery as light as possible, I can get it down to around 4.70 and my leads aren't all that thick. (the ones it came with)
Is there more than one driver being used?
Foy
Foy, from all the reading I’ve done today, it seems I’ve confirmed (as well as I can from BLF forum posts) we all have the East 092 driver on the stock light. Lightmalls, Tmart, and Manafont are selling the same HD, or at least HDs with the same driver, regardless of the brand name on the body.
I charged my SolarForce V3 2600mAh cell to 4.27v and dropped it in the HD2010, and I’m getting 3.2A. I don’t have my TFF 26650s yet. I know your Kongs out perform those. But this SF V3 cell (I didn’t know before today because I didn’t have a DMM until today) is out performing my TFFs in terms of output.
I’m guessing either cell or driver variance at this point.
From memory I only got a maximum of around 3 amps from mine no matter what battery I used or DMM. I dont think with the driver in mine that if I hooked it up to the overhead wires used on the electric trains I would get a reading any higher.
Edit. Maximum I got was 2.7 amps. Just found it on Foys review.
Looks like there are two drivers:
East-092 on JohnnyMac’s Ultrafire
and East-092B on Night Breaker’s FandyFire
Also Kramer5150’s findings show different readings depending on how compressed the spring is.
Interesting. So how does direct drive factor into this? I was assuming the East 092 was direct drive on high… why wouldn’t it pull unrestricted? Or, maybe I don’t fully understand DD?
Damn. Now I feel like ordering a second HD2010. (sad smiley not necessarily appropriate)
Okay, just for fun, I did a quick test with a few different 18650's:
Solarforce protected 2400 mAh (blue and white): 4.0 amps
Tenergy unprotected 2600 mAh: 4.0
Xtar 18700 protected 2600 mAh: 3.75
Panasonic CGR (D) unprotected 2350 mAh: 3.67
Solarforce unprotected 2400 mAh (white): 3.57
TrustFire flame protected 2400 mAh: 3.0 (well used cell, many cycles)
These cells were all charged a couple of days ago but I didn't measure any voltages. They usually come off my WF-188 at about 4.21 volts.
Foy
Would you get more accurate results using using a short loop of wire and a clamp meter, rather than fluffing around trying to reduce lead resistance?
Yes, a clamp would be much more accurate. That's why all these tail cap readings should be used in relative terms, not absolute. Having said that, I'm quite comfortable with my measurements after getting nearly identical readings as E1320 on the same light. (his Fluke)
Foy can't afford cool stuff.
whinyFoy
Alright. Well there you have it. Minus the Fluke, I agree that those results are pretty telling.
So is it a driver thing? I tried hard to get the same UF HD2010 you guys have because the reviews rock so hard. It is already awesome and I’m fully satisfied with the performance, but it is a tad lame that I can’t get the same current and output that others can, I suppose…
Or, maybe I’m just new still and my priorities are a little out of whack. 
Which one did you get ? Tmart ?
Yes. My first TMart purchase, and it got to my place in 4 days. So… at least I have that.
Hey, foy, can you try, please, TF flame if you have one? 
Anything over aproximately 3.5 amps may not give you any more light as the led just creates heat with the extra current and may infact give you less light output. Smile and be happy. You have a killer light. 
Batteries do make a difference and so does the charge. I get higher readings with unprotected batteries and you can get higher readings with undercharged batteries as well.
For anyone interested as I am, mine was a Tangsfire from DD with EAST092 driver. If the moon was in the right sector and I bit my tongue I could occasionally read just over 3 amps (3.2 if my memory is correct). I would be interested to hear what others are getting from the different drivers from what brand of flasghlight. Best reading was from a King Kong with a Trustfire slightly less.
I got it wrong. Max amps was 2.7.