Review: Magnetic control diving light (Cree XM-L T6 | 1 x 18650)

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Ecig
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But you say u prefer to use your light only to 30 meters, I think? (because of little too thin front glass?)

And no o rings need to be replaced on it?

Regarding other lights issues: http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1332
Look this one is interesting. Its 1Y18650 but it can be at least spare light. Yezl is known as quality budget manafacturer, and I have read one positive comment about some Yez flashlight on scubaboard.
It doesnt have any crenelations nor “attack head” Shocked
It even has nice big whole fror attaching diving lanyard.
And it looks like really nice, beefy (like many Yezl designs Smile ), also like serious flashlight…

But I understand your point, you already have what you need and you are not inclined to risk and experiment.
Maybe a con is to thick bezel, or better to say to small reflector. HEad is 53mm, but reflector diammeter s maybe less than 40mm (less than C8 reflector diammeter). And it doesnt look very deep, so you want get to focused beam with XML
And if its moderately driven you should easily get more than 1 hour runtime with one good 18650

Following your recommendation Im closest to buy this one http://fancyflashlights.com/goods.php?id=193 (same as yours, but ffrom other website – because of cheaper price)

PS: Flashligt from this topic also doesnt look bad, but because of small reflector its surelly more floody than throwy with XML (XPG or XRE would be different thing)

gcbryan
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The first one you link to looks interesting in that it’s attractive as you say. For me it would be a bit too big for a backup light given the manner that I attach and use the backup light.

I use this as a backup light…
W200

Ecig
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Bryan thanx for sharing all this info, I hope more people will benefit from them.

Your backup light, based on dx reviews, has some problems and needs to be checked obefore any use.

Regarding MC-E light, do you think I need to buy some spare O-rings and where to buy them?

PS: And look at this cute diving headlamp Big Smile ) http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1711

gcbryan
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This is a subject matter (diving and lights of course) that I do find interesting and do have a decent amount of experience with since I’m into diving and fortunate to live where deeper ocean diving is possible on a daily basis if I so chose (and I so chose for quite a while) Smile

Ecig, I don’t personally regard the W200 as being anything but rock solid. Some people have had a few problems which is the case with anything from DX and probably with anything in general.

Some of the people who had problems with the W200 did so after taking it apart. It’s not designed for that. The way the front is put together works well but if you pop the o-ring out and scratch it and then put everything back together it could leak.

That’s not a problem with the design of the light. I have two of them and did take one apart to play around with (modifying).

Although it’s possible that someone could have gotten a bad one. Most of the issues of that light leaking only came after everyone starting buying that light to modify. I think most of the issues were caused by trying to modify it. The o-ring in question in that case is a press fit from the front on top of the front glass lens. It’s what keeps it in. It’s a different design from most lights.

Foy, that looks like a good light. There are several designs out there that look like a good light and they may be. They only way that I consider them to be good for diving is if a lot of divers bought them and went diving with them over a period of time and there was no major problem with leaking.

There aren’t many reviews of most lights since the model that I have. Since there aren’t many (in some cases any) reviews when there are leaks it’s hard to know if it’s a common problem or just an isolated one.

If these lights were being made by the usual dive light manufacturers I’d assume a good looking design was probably a good dive light.

That’s not the case however. The people making these lights aren’t divers and don’t really know anything about diving.

The guy who originally designed the light that you have is a diver however he didn’t manufacture that light so …who knows?

There are several models of that light however in various configurations. For my purposes it’s not a backup light (too bulky) and unless it can take two 18650 it doesn’t have enough power for two consecutive dives (which is common).

I don’t know why he designed it with all those cooling fins with their sharp edges. He was more interested in cave diving and may have also wanted them to burn brightly while out of the water as well (I don’t know for sure).

Ecig, regarding diving headlamps…ugh! Smile

I absolutely hate it when a dive buddy wears any kind of light on his head to the point of just not preferring to dive with people like that.

Every time someone like that looks my way that means his light is shining in my face! The same goes from people who decide to wear a flashing strobe on their tank or somewhere on their body to supposedly help someone locate them!

It’s annoying! Smile

Oh, regarding extra o-rings for the Magicshine light…it comes with several extras. Some people were talking about getting something harder than the silicone ones that come with it.

I don’t think that’s necessary. If you want to do it fine but I have hundreds of dives on mine with no problem.

You know how this goes…people like to mess with/change whatever it is that they buy. Sometime/often they cause the problem that they are complaining about. Smile

I think there are plenty of examples of that right here at BLF. Smile

I’m not immune either. Smile

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Hi, this diving flashlight what a gift to a friend of mine. One day, he did sth stupid with the batteries and as s result, he destroyed the driver.

As you can see in the pics, the driver has the magnetic sensor of the switch.

I tried to fine a replacement with no result. Do you have any idea where can I find this type of driver? Is it possible to repair the fried driver?

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Ecig
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Maybe to ask Ric at cnqualitygoods?

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gcbryan wrote:

And what you think about these. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/12328?page=1#comment-221088

Same Magicshine flashlight (same body) but with XML

Lightmalls has incredibly good price, but its maybe some cheap low-qualitxy clone with all different internals (o-rings etc) than real magicshine.
Magicshine is it appears seriously in this busyness and they have even one new, I think, mode, SST50, with flat bezel, 2×26650, but little out of my budget currently.

It would be great if lightmalls flashlight is any good because the price is great (but I described everything in that other topic

The Last Katun
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maybe you can use any driver, adding the magnetic sensor

magnetic sensor (italian)

scaru
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Ecig wrote:
gcbryan wrote:
...
And what you think about these. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/12328?page=1#comment-221088 Same Magicshine flashlight (same body) but with XML Lightmalls has incredibly good price, but its maybe some cheap low-qualitxy clone with all different internals (o-rings etc) than real magicshine. Magicshine is it appears seriously in this busyness and they have even one new, I think, mode, SST50, with flat bezel, 2X26650, but little out of my budget currently. It would be great if lightmalls flashlight is any good because the price is great (but I described everything in that other topic

Your link doesn't work. 

Ecig
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In this quoted text? It works for me…

gcbryan
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It doesn’t work for me either. If seen pictures of the light that you refer to however I have no idea how it works as I don’t know of any dive reviews for it. If they didn’t change anything other than the emitter it should work.

A XM-L would be too floody for my uses however (I think).

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I dont know, its probably some forum glitch… (I see the post fine). But I’ll copy it here than, its from “Dubious and miscallenous deals topic” in deals section)

Quote:
I almost, just amost pulled the trigger.
These days Im searching for some diving flashlight.

GcBryan recommends an MC-e flashlight he uses without problems, Magicshine 2×18650 MC-E flashlight. Like this – http://fancyflashlights.com/goods.php?id=193 and you have it on dx too.

Now I stumbled on lightmalls flashlight http://fancyflashlights.com/goods.php?id=193 , only 39.90$ wich would be seriously good deal for such diving flashlight ig any good.

I also searched the internet and found it only on 2 other places at more than twice that price… (for exammple here http://www.volumerate.com/product/mj-810e-ha-iii-cree-xml-t60-3-mode-100... )

But looking the pictures more carefully, I noticed that lightmals light has SMO reflector, and reflector is seated behind the bezel somehow differently (larger gap). And on two other places, reflector is OP, as on the older MC-E model.
And than I remember one member ranted here that lightmalls sells cheap knock-offs. …

SO, now Im little hesitant to pull the trigger, I simply dont need it if its significantly lower quality than original .

Regarding MCE versus XML, I though MCE is floodier. I dont know much about MC-E and dont own any, so Im easily in the wrong…

In conclusion to quoted text – I dont think lightmalls has good version. First of all its suspiciously cheap, secondlym reflector is different, it can be seen from the pictures, and if reflector is different (even when compared with XML version on other two webstores), easily more parts are different – and probably not to the better side Smile Im not prone to pull the trigger, although price is really tempting… Maybe it would be good surfface light who nows, but its probably underdriven… Too much unknown and Im not prepared to gamble with 40$, even if gain would be 80-90$ Smile

scaru
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Oh that thread. Silly Mr. Admin probably closed it but since you started it you can still view it. 

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SOmeone not very smart probably got carried away with clicking spam button.

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just thought I’d add a couple notes for anyone considering this light

I purchased the sky ray branded version from manafont, for a dollar and change more than the generic – just out of curiousity

1. I agree w/ pretty much all the had to say.

2. there is a little bit of ramping action when you slide the button. What I mean is, it ramps to the level you select within <0.5s. Not a big con, but I would prefer instantaneous because selecting the desired brightness would be easier. I’m sure after some use I won’t notice.

I own the xtar d06. This is about the closest thing to a budget version I’ve seen.

magnetic dimming vs d06

Cons
-fewer levels (~5 vs ~22)
-much lower current on high ( ?1.5A vs 2.45A)
-much higher current on lowest level (a bit painful to look at vs fraction of a lumen)
-anodizing (not bad at all vs super tough)

Pros
-lighter (adequate vs very heavy build)
-knurling (good but not aggressive vs none)
-price ($20-$25 vs $60 to $80)

summary: You get what you pay for with these two. My ideal version would be ‘magnetic dimming’ body with D06 circuit and anodizing.

At some point I’ll test current, and report here, which was the main reason for trying sky ray version. I also plan to test adding some resistance fixes – even though I tested that on the d06 and it doesn’t make a difference.

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ricardo
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I like the flashlight and the review is very complete 8)

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I just found the same one on aliexpress, Is the same ?
link

professional in diving flashlight and LED Flashlight

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gcbryan wrote:
Since there seems to be some interest on this subject I’ll describe an experiment I once did.

I wanted to learn more about the failure modes of a light converted to a dive light. I used a cheap Rominsen RC-K4 (or something like that). It was a 3 AAA XR-E light with a reverse clickie.

The switch was removed which left a hole in the tail which I filled in with marine grade epoxy. This left the light as a “twisty” by screwing in and out the tail cap for on and off.

The front lens was very thin, maybe 1 or 1.5mm. The o-ring in the head was useless both because it was so thin and because of its location. It was around the lens in the head rather than behind the lens so it really did nothing to keep water out except for maybe light rain. It was more like a gasket than a compressible o-ring.

I removed the o-ring and used marine grade silicone sealant around the edges on both sides of the lens.

Then I tested this light on a night dive to 100 fsw (feet sea water). I expected it to fail but I wanted to note at what depth it failed and what exactly the failure modes were. I had another light with me of course (2 more actually).

Initially, I turned the light on before I entered the water to eliminate the act of twisting the light on as a failure point. I check the front lens every 30 feet or so on the descent to 100 fsw to look for leaks.

It never did leak! At 100 fsw I decided that I had learned all I needed to know and was therefore willing to twist the light off and then back on. It still didn’t leak. Twisting the light on and off at 100 fsw was the worse case scenario (for this test).

The lens was thin but the head diameter was only 30 mm or so and thickness is a function of surface area for these purposes so it worked but wasn’t ideal.

I didn’t bang the light around or bump the lens against anything underwater or it may well have failed.

That’s what’s not generally tested in a pressure pot…dynamic pressure rather than just static pressure.

Rarely is the issue (for leaking) with a light the body tube head or tail connection. Almost all lights have one or more o-rings there and long enough threads that there is an effective seal. Grease is helpful but that isn’t what seals at 100 fsw or at any real depth underwater.

Switches that are desirable in non-dive lights aren’t desirable in dive lights due to increasing water pressure which would activate the switch. With a reverse clicky water pressure would keep the switch from ever turning on.

Due to the way these switches are constructed water would almost always leak (flood) in at some depth and that would occur fairly quickly (at a fairly shallow depth). Spring pressure could offset that initially.

A thick front lens is desirable but it may not initially be the cause of a leak (may not break initially if not banged around).

Many dive lights are spec’d to 300 fsw so they can be used in reality down to 200 fsw or less.

I’m sure (pretty sure) that the Rominsen would have failed (lens broken) by 200 fsw. My regular main dive light has a lens that is only 3.5 mm and that’s with a diameter of close to 50mm. I wouldn’t be comfortable with it at 200 fsw.

People have had them down to 150 fsw or so. I’m had mine down to 130 fsw. The light I had before my current main dive light was taken down to 200 fsw several times and I had no problem doing that but it was thicker and all plastic (HID not LED however).

Your average flashlight may do OK in a swimming pool (or it may flood) Smile That’s an addition 1/2 atmosphere at most. Beyond that most lights would fail (and/or not work) just because of water pressure and the clicky switch.

I don’t know exactly how a Zebralight (for example) is constructed but conceivably it could work with the electronic switch (not sure about how the switch is sealed) however it would be continually changing modes due to water pressure but otherwise it might make it to 100 fsw. I’m not going to test this however! Smile

Hi, I saw your comment and got really surprised about it, I have this flashlight, I bought it in Aliexpress but is the same one, and when I saw the thin lens I thought it was not going to be suitable for diving….

I would like to know if you have use it more times at this deep, I use to dive at no more than 25m and if you confirm that the lens is strong enough I’ll seal it and give it a try.

Thanks advance for your help.

Best regards form Zaragoza.

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