SOLD - Red 2AA Maglite with Nichia 219 led and TIR optic - US or International, ship anywhere.

SOLD is this 2AA Maglite with a Nichia 219 led in it and a TIR optic from CNQG. Direct Drive, no modes. Just a tiny twist of the head from off to on. See this build thread for all the info on this light. Polished Bezel and Tail cap. Comes with the holster and a Dummy AA battery will go with the light.

It doesn't look very red in these photos. It is red, but this camera doesn't get it...

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It comes with the Maglite holster and I will include a Dummy AA battery, for those that want to use One 14500 with this light. Slip in the 14500, slip in the Dummy AA and you're all set. (try to let the Li-ion relax a little so it doesn't burn up the led., as in not 3.7v hot off the charger, but 3.4v or less, after a day or longer).

Alkalines only show to give about 300ma direct and NiMHs even less (due to the lower voltage). A 14500 should be considerably brighter and also hotter.

SOLD

Price is $30USD CONUS OR $35USD International

Payment is by PayPal - valleau(insert the @ sign here)suddenlink.net

First person posting I'll take it, here in this thread, followed up by a paypal payment, gets the light.

PM me as well, when you take the light.

Questions? PM me

Thank you,

Justin

Hi justin, do you know what kind of lumen output this flashlight is? Because I’ve been looking for something like this for my parents, and if it’s over 200 lumens I’ll take it!

With 2 alkalines, I think it would be borderline or below, but with a 14500 it would be over that.

Okay I’ll take it. Thanks. I’ll PM you my details

You got it. Thanks!

1) A beautiful product Justin, and I like the idea of it going to Oz.
I would have been very interested, but I deliberately don’t have a PayPal account. I only use PP in conjunction with my debit card. Do you know of any OTHER simple way of paying for self-built products - short of stuffing some cash in an envelope?
(From memory E1320? might also requires one to have a PP account).

2) From my days-old experience Lithium rechargeables come out at 4.2V, and it would be a great pity to damage such a fine torch. 2 AA fresh Alkis might start off at <3.2V but would droop over time. NiMHs should remain steady <2.5V over nearly a full runtime.

3) I have also ‘modded’ a 2 AA incandescent torch… LOL …

I replaced the 2.2V 0.47A globe with a DORCY 30 lumen LED. It gives a smoother, whiter beam, and should extend the runtime 5 - 10 fold. At under $3, the price of an incandescent globe that might only last 10 hours it seemed worthwhile. Comparing it to my other LED torches the output seems more like 15 lumens; still on a par with the original red EVEREADY output.

There was also a 40 lumen LED that I put in a lantern. That seemed to output the full lumens. Aside from minor concerns about poor heat-sinking it seems excellent value.

Thanks to making this post I have now realized why the output was lower than expected with the torch - I put in LSD NiMHs; whilst the lantern has a fresh ‘6V’ Alki pack!

Many thanks for the education Justin :slight_smile:

Just a question, what’s the maximum voltage a nichia 219 can take?

According to the spec sheet 3v. I run them direct with 3AAA Eneloops all the time and hit about 3.3v-3.4v. That's why I said, probably a Li-ion would need to be showing not much more than 3.4v before use, but it's also going to dip down when in use. I don't know enough about Li-ion, because I never use them. Others here should be able to tell and there's probably threads here already on that.

Just found this on illumination supply’s website :

  • B10 Flux Bin(100-110lm@350mA)
  • L Voltage Bin (2.7-3.1V@350mA)

So on 2 alkalines, that’s 3volts, do you have any current readings?

Nope, don’t have a meter, just an ammeter. Well I have one, but it would be better sticking my tounge across the path than using the meter to get a reading.

An ammeter is all that’s needed. Is yours broken?

:love:

Damn, I missed this

I read 250 to 300ma with the analog ammter, but that’s two batteries. Why does that matter, I don’t get it. Never did understand all that Ohms law crap, way over my pea brain. Either it turns on or it doesn’t.

I have a meter and sold it. Wouldn't know if a reading was right or totally wrong and couldn't make sense of it, so I just sold it off. It's like teaching a dog to sit, you need to be smarter than the dog, LOL.

Oh, well, life goes on.

Generally, to get an estimate of lumens based on the draw in comparison to the led specs.

2 cells in series * 1.5v = 3.0v * 300mA ~ 0.9W if my math is correct.

Since you were using the batts that came with the light, I assumed alkys at spec volts.

NIMHs have lower voltage, but I suspect they could have a higher draw, but how much depends on resistance (usually lower than alkys) with a direct drive . . this is why I posted in the build thread it would be nice to see the actual numbers as a reference point.

Well, if I knew enough, I might do that. Anyhow, the NiMHs had a lower draw. I only read 100ma to 150ma at the tail with two fresh NiMHs, but I figure it’s because of the lower voltage of NiMHs vs Alkalines. I took it for granted that fresh Alkalines would give off 1.5v each.

I only have one ammeter and it is the old style analog. I bought it because I can read an analog, but I can't read that digital crap. Every time I used the digital meter I had, it would jump all over the place and I can take the analog meter and it reads solid as a rock, so I just (today) ordered an analog voltmeter. Maybe I will be able to read voltages that way. I never could do numbers all my life (dyslexia they say now, stupid back then), but I can read an analog meter needle.

The forward voltage of an LED will go up with the current. While some LEDs barely light up at 2.5V, they can be mind-blowing at 3.2V. There are some tables, but they arent really reliable.

For example, the current in relation to the forward voltage of an XML:

Voltage determines current. Thats why we use linear regulators, they limit the current to a certain value and adapt the forward voltage to that level.

So, while 2 Eneloops (2.6V) can deliver way more current than 2 Alkalines (3V), the light will be brighter on Alkalines. At 2.6V, the XML maybe can pull 100mA while at 3V it could pull up to 1A.

I hope that helps.

@OL: If you want to build brighter lights that can be used with 2 AA cells, get this driver:

http://dx.com/p/1-5v-4-2v-3w-cree-circuit-board-for-flashlights-16-7mm-5-6mm-25505

I’ll take some readings and lux measurements when I receive it.

I’ll take readings for 2 alkalines @ 3v, 2 NiMHs @ 2.4v, 1 14500 @ 3.4v. Hopefully then we can learn more about the 219’s current/voltage relationship.

To get half the brightness of Slewflashes 200 lumens only requires 50 lm.

With the specs given, one might get ~60 lm OTF (based on around 90 lm from the LED) from fresh 1.6V Alkis: with voltage & output dropping over time. NiMHs might give a constant 30 lm for 12 hours at 150mA.

It could be considered as a superior, lightweight custom built Dolphin, giving over a 6 hour runtime from 2AAs.

If Slewflash found it unsuitable for the parents I would be happy to repurchase it for $35 - just no Li used, not even 1.8V AAs :slight_smile:

The Nichia spec sheet found at the IS link above shows a different curve shape (& weird scaling), but with the same principle.

It also seems to show l-ion voltages of 4.x as workable (if I’m reading pg. 11 correctly - so due diligence is urged) with more than 4x the lumen output at full charge vs the 350mA standard cited above. However, the duty ratio (pg. 9) is much lower at the high draw.

http://www.nichia.co.jp/specification/en/product/led/NVSL219A-H1-E.pdf