\Skyray king mod idea.

Glad you were able to fix things. Looks like there's a lot of room to play around inside the pill. A high quality macro of the driver would be great to have if anyone is thinking of modding one. ;)

Looks like Microcontroller + 3x buck drivers

Is it ATTiny13A ?

As johnny said, macro photo of driver would greatly help other members to identify components and advice you mods

that 4468 SOIC is N-Channel MOSFET

http://aosmd.com/pdfs/datasheet/AO4468.pdf

Since i’ve already had a few too many beer to want to dig out the macro tube, ill do it tomorrow. i hope that someone that is more capable with micro controllers is able to get good information from this. reprogramming this thing would be epic.

Please posts macro shots!

One thing I always wanted in the KING, is to keep pressed the button for two secs to turn on, and if pressed once (for less than 2s), it will flash. So you can have a manual strobe. In some situations I really need this feature.

Well, it turns out that i have to Re-glue my macro tube, but, here have a high-er res close up of the driver, I figure it will hold your attention until the glue dries

As far as i can see, pin 1 pin 7 and pin 8 have traces, however there seems to be a trace running under it, which i can not tell where it goes
also the button goes to pin 4 i dont know if that is enough to help determine which micro controller it is, or how best to reprogram it if possible.


Awesome Macros! Thanks.
Have you tried to read the SOIC8 with a programmer?

I would, if i had anything to read it with. It was surprisingly easy to get the driver out, i think i might even be possible to remove without even heating the head, i only heated it to like 50-60C and pushed it out thought the hole that the switch uses. if you have a programmer, you could try with your king.

I received a faulty one from lightmalls, only 2 of the 3 leds are functional.

They wanted me to send it back at my expense, which worked out more than I paid for it in the first place. Paypal was no good either, even though I won the dispute against lightmalls - again it had to be sent back (online tracked with proof of delivery) at my own expense before they would refund me.

So, no thanks to lightmalls (I recommend you don’t use them btw as they have very poor customer service) its now been sacrificed for experimentation instead.

I’ve managed to break it down to its individual components the same as Serfius has, I couldn’t get the driver board out from the battery side, but it pushed out easily from the front once I took out the reflector.

It is just a very tight fit, there doesn’t seem to be any glue holding it in place. It presses back in place ok without being loose.

I’ve swapped the leds around and proved that the driver board is fine, its just one of the leds doesn’t work.

They seem to be glued to the pill using a sticky white thermal paste, does anyone want any pictures of the internals ?

Pin 4 is ground on the Atmel ATTINYxx chips so that rules out them. It probably some sort of PIC.

Speaking of King mods… Anybody else see this vid ? It’d be super neat it someone could figure out how to put a battery voltage monitor in there and have it flash the capacity in colors every few seconds while off. Locator + battery gauge in one!

Oh, and the current sense resistor looks like it is that R010 resistor in parallel with the R068 which is probably 8.7 milliohms for the pair, but could be 87 milliohms depending upon how the maker marks their resistors.

Welcome to the club, emkay!

Can I directly replace these with U2 without changing anything on the driver ?

Emkay, I would test the LED in question first by connecting 3.6v directly to the star contacts to make sure it is the LED and not just a broken wire or bad solder at the driver.

Emkay, if you do try johnnymacs suggestion, ( I would) just use a partially depleted 18650.

Exactly. Freshly charged 4.2v might damage the emitter. 3.6v should be fine.

JM, it really depends on the cell. IMR cells can easily kill them but the crappy trustfire cells will work just fine cause of voltage drop. Either way just run it in another light for a bit. :D

Ah, great idea to push the driver out through the switch hole... I finally got it out! Thanks, Serifus :)

Now I have plans... ^_^