I’ve got one of those on the way to me, they do look good for the money.

Any idea how hard the driver is working the LED? I might do a driver swap.

What other throwers would you put it in league with?

Thanks for the insight.Looks alot of kit for the money.Mines ordered two weeks ago.

DON…

Can you confirm the (2) 18650's are in parallel in this light?  I'd like to know about the driver current too, like whether or not it's direct drive on high.

Thanks,
-Garry

Can you place them in the carrier and then measure voltage of the carrier? 

Stack side-by-side in the same direction (positive toward the LED end of the carrier)?  Can you trace the contacts?  Are both + ends of the batteries connected together (i.e. both + ends touch the same contact plate or strip)? 

You could also measure voltage across both contacts of the battery carrier.  Wait a minute - I just checked and this version doesn't have a battery carrier.  So the cells just drop into the body?  Do they go in with the + ends of both toward the LED?  (That's what I assume which makes it parallel.)

Thanks,

-Garry

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS wrote:

Both positive ends points towards the LED.

Can you try it with only one cell in the light? If that works, then definitely parallel. Thanks.

It looks like it did pretty well in the 350yd shots. This looks like a nice candidate for a mod (overdrive + dedome). Oh my, I think I’m obsessed with modifying now.

And as always, I love the SS bezel!

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS wrote:

Slew,

For under $30, it’s one of the best throwers now I know of for the money. But again, it won’t out throw the STL-V6. It’s just driven harder. But if a guy drives this thing to 3.5 amps or so it would whip a lot of lights. It’s got a very good deep reflector.

Hmm.. since I already have an STL-V2/6 maybe I’ll just chuck in an SST-50 4 amp driver and see how it goes. If it overheats into oblivion oh well, I’ve learned something new. But if it doesn’t then that’ll be awesome

At first I actually messed mine up, I used a pocket knife and a file, which in hindsight is pretty stupid.

If you have an ‘exacto-knife’ or something similar you can dedome it if you have adequate access to the LED.
I myself used a box-cutter (same as those american knives) and had to dedome while the emitter was still on the star, while it was still wired into the driver. So I was sticking the knife into the head to dedome it. I only had enough wire to move the star directly horizontal so I could chip bits off slowly.

Dedoming does increase throw, but it’s not such a major difference. It also isn’t hard, but if you ever do dedome it (successfully) you won’t regret it.

If you can get close access to the emitter then all you do is get a knife, slice off a large chunk of the silicone, then chip away at it until the surface is uniformly flat (also do it until you ALMOST reach the sulfur in order to take out most of the dome), then just polish it with some water and a soft cloth.

Could I use CR123 batteries with this light? If I did, what would the differences be? How would it affect light output and run time?

Probably can’t use cr123. Likely uses direct drive.

Uh…Anyone interested in a really nice TC40 clone..lol I like the smaller or compact throwers
better and the paired battery tube. Im putting this one on my list..

Thought you guys would never stop with the XM-L witch hunt. Every where i look someones
tearing a dome of a brand new sparkly LED. And then buffer , didn’t someone wax their XM-L??

The de-doming effect is much more pronounced with luminous LED’s..Wonder what a P7 would
do minus the big bedroom window it has? Now, that you can stick a knife or fork into

Looks nice , and looks to throw some as well ..

old4570 wrote:

Looks nice , and looks to throw some as well .. CR123 – Primary ? = 12v 18650 voltage is ? = series 8.4v Hope mine gets here soon …

THe light is two cells in parallel so 2 cells in their place will likely fry the driver if it’s designed for 1 cell operation.

I know a good lanyard wrap you could do to that light ....