SOLD - Red 2AA Maglite with Nichia 219 led and TIR optic - US or International, ship anywhere.

3.4V is OK. I hope it’s suitable, but if not contact me.

Good luck!

Maybe a lithium primary(3.6 new, 3.3 nominal). Sold in AA size might be just the ticket. A good idea maybe for a gift light.

Obviously not stupid, but different. I’ve come to the conclusion that all that convoluted grey matter upstairs really does make each of us think and figure things out differently. One size explanation does not fit all. Justin, you are gifted with an extraordinary eye, patience, and skilled hands to match(or a really large garbage can). With things like dyslexia it takes a different approach to convey information. Maybe a YouTube video would help. Or a beer and less chatter.

I agree that Justin is gifted.

If my old memory serves, a fair percentage of the population are dyslexic, including some very intelligent ones (check WikiP or Google: Einstein & da Vinci may be mentioned) - the point of differentiation for we third chimps; the so called common chimp being physically stronger, & the rare Bonobo more emotionally advanced.

I just received the light today. And I can definitely say that I am IMPRESSED! Thank you Justin :slight_smile:
After I discharge a 14500 down to 3.4V I’ll test it out the lux readings and ceiling bounce with 2AAs (3.0V), and then with the 3.4V 14500. I have to say though Justin, this will make a REALLY nice gift. Your work is amazing and I thank you for it :slight_smile:
Even the packaging of the light was really well done too.

I’m looking forward to your other builds Justin. Hopefully a direct drive SST-90 :smiley:

EDIT: And I thought my IO p60 drop in NW module was awesome at rendering colours. This thing… really is so great. Now when I look at my CW lights everything just looks so garish and unattractive.

EDIT2: Actually on second thoughts I won’t be using the 14500 at all. It cuts off at 3.2V so it’s pretty pointless.

EDIT3: I think I may have worked out the lumen output, it’s very rough though.
This is based on the assumption that my SR King puts out 2300 lumens at 5 seconds after I turn it on.
So I ceiling bounced the SR King, and took the number down after 5 seconds. Then I did the same for the maglite. And yes, I did put them in the exact same position and I didn’t move the meter. Used the same method for both lights. and did it three times.
I divided the SR King’s number by the maglite’s number to get the factor. Then I divided 2300 by the factor and averaged out all my results. I got 99.71 lumens(but this is all very rough anyway, so I reckon the margin of error is probably plus or minus 15%).
Also at 1 meter I got 8k lux, which is pretty good I’d say :slight_smile: It is definitely brighter than those 5*5mm LED flashlights you see in australian supermarkets. I think I just found my new house navigation light :smiley:

High CRI really makes a difference. If you have a chance to use it to light up a large photo, poster, or map, you will see the colors so much more realistic.

If I were you, I would try the 14500 withought bleeding it off. What are you talking about 4.2v? or higher than that? 4.2 shouldn't kill the led, since it's going to sag right away. I've done 3 AA Alkalines with these Nichias and that's 4.5v when it turns on.

Anyhow, glad you like it.

Okay, I’ll try the 14500. I’ll take the readings now. Fingers crossed! BTW I edited my last post to put up rough numbers of the lumen output. And it has 8k lux at 1 meter.

EDIT: Looks like I’ll have to wait a short bit, my highest 14500 goes to 4.13V. I’ll charge it up to 4.2V then I’ll test it. And the alkalines I used in the first test read 1.57V after I finished testing.

Okay, after some confusing results here are the final numbers:
3.14V (2AA alkalines): 99.7 lumens, 800 lux (I accidentally misstated the previous readings, it’s 800, not 8000).
4.23V (1 14500, 1 dummy): 288.3 lumens, 3,400 lux.

Again, give it 15% leeway for error as these are just rough numbers, but it’s interesting to see how much the output increases with just an extra 1.1V. Amazing!

Did you also measure current? Of course LiIons sag right away, but I wouldnt hook my 14500s (IMRs) directly up to an LED..^^

Yep, I just measured the current, and I’m definitely not going to put an IMR in a direct drive light.

1*14500: 0.64 amps
2* AA: 0.30 amps

Slewflash,

I am pleased for you (kudos to Justin too) & just a little sad for me :frowning:

From your earlier post (#8) aren’t you quoting LED lumens - OTF might be 2/3?

Cheers, John

EDIT: From another thread I have just bought some safer LiFe 3.2V AA & AAA cells, plus a charger. $23 for a 3.6V (rather than 4.2V) charger plus 4 batteries might allow your dad to more safely operate this torch - with an LED lumen output closer to 200 lm giving a cooler & longer runtime? Although AA capacity is only 600mAh.

That is if you can bear to give it up :slight_smile:

I kind of want another one or two, and maybe to give away to someone who appreciates high CRI lights, but maybe it’d be better off to left the next person to get it. But if Justin is up to making more than one then I would be happy to get another one :smiley:

From post #8, it says this: B10 Flux Bin(100-110lm@350mA, 2.7-3.1V)
And with my crude method I measured 99.7 lumens at 3.14V, 300mA. I’d say that it’s pretty accurate. This test was using 2 AA alkalines. Btw it’s worth noting that in the first 20 seconds, on alkalines the output steadily but slowly drops, about 1.5 lumens every 2 seconds. This didn’t happen with the 14500 LiIon battery.

I measured 288 lumens at 4.23V, 600mA with the 14500 battery and after running for 5 minutes indoors the head gets warm, at 35.6 degrees centigrade with ambient temperature of 21 degrees centigrade.

Here is the link Coolook AA 14500 Rechargeable LiFePO4 Batteries

I suspect a second edit might be overdoing sequential reading. :bigsmile:

Keep up the testing and reporting back. I might even consider joining the dark side, & linking my Debit card to PayPal :cry: , if Justin is prepared to repeat the exercise.

EDIT: Also curious about NiMH Slewflash?

PS Where does the name ‘Slewflash’ come from?

My current NiMHs have been decommissioned due to ultra fast discharge so I’ll have to wait until my Turnigy AAs come in to do the NiMH testing.
I’ll make a new thread that consolidates all the data when I get them.
I don’t really know what else to test, except runtimes. But I’ll do those another day.

The name Slewflash comes from three different parts, slew is a mixture of my first and last name and flash comes from flashlight.

EDIT: I also don’t have any NiZn or LiFePO4 batteries, but I probably won’t be getting them any time soon so I won’t be able to test those.

Thanks for the testing. I would say using one 14500 is well within the range of use for this led. That's my personal take. I think using a 14500 is for someone that just needs bright. I think using 2 Alkalines, is what most people really should do, if they just want a light for getting around with. I think NiMHs will be way too dim, as the combined output from 2 NiMHs will be 2.2v after a couple minutes of turn on. That is what I found, when trying out NiMHs.

To me, this would be a good give away light, as most people are familiar with Alkalines and they would appreciate the color rendition the Nichia gives.

I will be making more of these (I don't know how many) and while on the one hand I could "take orders", on the other hand I like to put them up for sale on different days and different times of the day/night, so that more people get a chance at one. If I take orders, I make a business out of it. If I just do them when I feel like it, then it remains a hobby. Once I loose interest, I loose it for good, usually, so I try to keep it interesting for myself, lest I quit all together (which I have been known to do,LOL).

Well don’t force it then :slight_smile: I know I’m probably going to run it on 14500s since it gives such a boost over alkalines. I can’t imagine how dim the nimhs will be. Btw the tailcap spring cuts a hole in the battery that’s touching it whenever I unscrew it or screw it. So for future builds you might want to file down the edge of the spring :slight_smile: I’ve already filed mine down so now it doesn’t affect it anymore.

Really? The spring was that sharp? Looks like Maglite is following the rest of the world, lack of quality control, due to rising costs and using fewer people to do more work. Sad…

Yep it was that sharp. Also if anyone is curious i ran it for 15 minutes on a 14500 with no damage done :slight_smile: Ill do a runtimes test tomorrow

Were the spring to pierce the 14500, lumens might go off the scale.

I have a AA Sipik 68 that also scratches the base of the battery. As it is the only one I have that always starts on High, rather than their perpetual cycle, I used a nail file to smooth out the cut end. A second pair of fine needle nosed pliers might have enabled me to bend the end of the spring down & inward.

It is pleasing to hear that Justin may make further versions. However creative juices need a challenge - even Leonardo had difficulties in completing some works.

I wonder what effect this type of lens has in converting LED lumens to OTF?

I don’t know, but the lenses (most of them), run about 80%-87% efficient, so there is definitely loss there.

Why would lumens increase if the tailcap pierces the 14500 cell?