SOLD - Red 2AA Maglite with Nichia 219 led and TIR optic - US or International, ship anywhere.

High CRI really makes a difference. If you have a chance to use it to light up a large photo, poster, or map, you will see the colors so much more realistic.

If I were you, I would try the 14500 withought bleeding it off. What are you talking about 4.2v? or higher than that? 4.2 shouldn't kill the led, since it's going to sag right away. I've done 3 AA Alkalines with these Nichias and that's 4.5v when it turns on.

Anyhow, glad you like it.

Okay, Iā€™ll try the 14500. Iā€™ll take the readings now. Fingers crossed! BTW I edited my last post to put up rough numbers of the lumen output. And it has 8k lux at 1 meter.

EDIT: Looks like Iā€™ll have to wait a short bit, my highest 14500 goes to 4.13V. Iā€™ll charge it up to 4.2V then Iā€™ll test it. And the alkalines I used in the first test read 1.57V after I finished testing.

Okay, after some confusing results here are the final numbers:
3.14V (2AA alkalines): 99.7 lumens, 800 lux (I accidentally misstated the previous readings, itā€™s 800, not 8000).
4.23V (1 14500, 1 dummy): 288.3 lumens, 3,400 lux.

Again, give it 15% leeway for error as these are just rough numbers, but itā€™s interesting to see how much the output increases with just an extra 1.1V. Amazing!

Did you also measure current? Of course LiIons sag right away, but I wouldnt hook my 14500s (IMRs) directly up to an LED..^^

Yep, I just measured the current, and Iā€™m definitely not going to put an IMR in a direct drive light.

1*14500: 0.64 amps
2* AA: 0.30 amps

Slewflash,

I am pleased for you (kudos to Justin too) & just a little sad for me :frowning:

From your earlier post (#8) arenā€™t you quoting LED lumens - OTF might be 2/3?

Cheers, John

EDIT: From another thread I have just bought some safer LiFe 3.2V AA & AAA cells, plus a charger. $23 for a 3.6V (rather than 4.2V) charger plus 4 batteries might allow your dad to more safely operate this torch - with an LED lumen output closer to 200 lm giving a cooler & longer runtime? Although AA capacity is only 600mAh.

That is if you can bear to give it up :slight_smile:

I kind of want another one or two, and maybe to give away to someone who appreciates high CRI lights, but maybe itā€™d be better off to left the next person to get it. But if Justin is up to making more than one then I would be happy to get another one :smiley:

From post #8, it says this: B10 Flux Bin(100-110lm@350mA, 2.7-3.1V)
And with my crude method I measured 99.7 lumens at 3.14V, 300mA. Iā€™d say that itā€™s pretty accurate. This test was using 2 AA alkalines. Btw itā€™s worth noting that in the first 20 seconds, on alkalines the output steadily but slowly drops, about 1.5 lumens every 2 seconds. This didnā€™t happen with the 14500 LiIon battery.

I measured 288 lumens at 4.23V, 600mA with the 14500 battery and after running for 5 minutes indoors the head gets warm, at 35.6 degrees centigrade with ambient temperature of 21 degrees centigrade.

Here is the link Coolook AA 14500 Rechargeable LiFePO4 Batteries

I suspect a second edit might be overdoing sequential reading. :bigsmile:

Keep up the testing and reporting back. I might even consider joining the dark side, & linking my Debit card to PayPal :cry: , if Justin is prepared to repeat the exercise.

EDIT: Also curious about NiMH Slewflash?

PS Where does the name ā€˜Slewflashā€™ come from?

My current NiMHs have been decommissioned due to ultra fast discharge so Iā€™ll have to wait until my Turnigy AAs come in to do the NiMH testing.
Iā€™ll make a new thread that consolidates all the data when I get them.
I donā€™t really know what else to test, except runtimes. But Iā€™ll do those another day.

The name Slewflash comes from three different parts, slew is a mixture of my first and last name and flash comes from flashlight.

EDIT: I also donā€™t have any NiZn or LiFePO4 batteries, but I probably wonā€™t be getting them any time soon so I wonā€™t be able to test those.

Thanks for the testing. I would say using one 14500 is well within the range of use for this led. That's my personal take. I think using a 14500 is for someone that just needs bright. I think using 2 Alkalines, is what most people really should do, if they just want a light for getting around with. I think NiMHs will be way too dim, as the combined output from 2 NiMHs will be 2.2v after a couple minutes of turn on. That is what I found, when trying out NiMHs.

To me, this would be a good give away light, as most people are familiar with Alkalines and they would appreciate the color rendition the Nichia gives.

I will be making more of these (I don't know how many) and while on the one hand I could "take orders", on the other hand I like to put them up for sale on different days and different times of the day/night, so that more people get a chance at one. If I take orders, I make a business out of it. If I just do them when I feel like it, then it remains a hobby. Once I loose interest, I loose it for good, usually, so I try to keep it interesting for myself, lest I quit all together (which I have been known to do,LOL).

Well donā€™t force it then :slight_smile: I know Iā€™m probably going to run it on 14500s since it gives such a boost over alkalines. I canā€™t imagine how dim the nimhs will be. Btw the tailcap spring cuts a hole in the battery thatā€™s touching it whenever I unscrew it or screw it. So for future builds you might want to file down the edge of the spring :slight_smile: Iā€™ve already filed mine down so now it doesnā€™t affect it anymore.

Really? The spring was that sharp? Looks like Maglite is following the rest of the world, lack of quality control, due to rising costs and using fewer people to do more work. Sadā€¦

Yep it was that sharp. Also if anyone is curious i ran it for 15 minutes on a 14500 with no damage done :slight_smile: Ill do a runtimes test tomorrow

Were the spring to pierce the 14500, lumens might go off the scale.

I have a AA Sipik 68 that also scratches the base of the battery. As it is the only one I have that always starts on High, rather than their perpetual cycle, I used a nail file to smooth out the cut end. A second pair of fine needle nosed pliers might have enabled me to bend the end of the spring down & inward.

It is pleasing to hear that Justin may make further versions. However creative juices need a challenge - even Leonardo had difficulties in completing some works.

I wonder what effect this type of lens has in converting LED lumens to OTF?

I donā€™t know, but the lenses (most of them), run about 80%-87% efficient, so there is definitely loss there.

Why would lumens increase if the tailcap pierces the 14500 cell?

POOFTongue Out

Yeah, the explosion would atleast double the output. :P I think what he meant was that due to the added pressure and the spring being more compressed more current will pass through.

I just filed off the point, doesnt make a difference in brightness though

I just looked at my fairly old minimag and it has done the same to one of my TFFs (both now moved to separate SK68s). Apparently not a new maglite QC problem - perhaps softer material on the TFFs?