I’ve seen 3.56A at the tail from a freshly charged Panasonic 18650. Immediately afterwards I put the same battery in my HD2010 and it was delivering 5+ amps so despite my best efforts there’s still a significant degree of resistance somewhere. But it’s not a big deal because I don’t really want any of my XM-L lights to be pulling much over 3.5A anyway, so I think I’m done modding this one.
In the end this has been totally worth it for me. I was convinced that I was going to end up giving this light away but I’ve changed my mind. It’s finally hanging with the big boys. It’s certainly not winning, but it’s definitely up there. After putting all this time and effort into it, making it better and making it my own, I’ve grown attached to it, and am subsequently deriving increased enjoyment from using it.
That cell at 3.67v is pretty well fully discharged. You should see a huge gain in amps from it when it's fully charged! Be sure to report back. What brand of cells are they? (I haven't tried any 26650's in mine since I haven't gotten the LED properly heatsinked.) I would like to hear from ceHowardGS about his cuz I know he's using 26650's and hasn't done anything to the LED star/pill connection.
I finally got the 26650’s charged took probably like 12+ hours. After that check the current again and now I am over 3a’s and you can really tell the difference. The light is definately brighter! Ya finally! But the battery us to short for the light doeant want to stay on. I put a penny on the negative side and it stays on but im sure that is not a good way of doing it!
Ps now its brighter then my xpg2 driven at 2.3a :bigsmile:
I probably should have mentioned (especially to garrybunk) that I’m using protected button-top 18650’s, which are 68.8mm long. In other words, my particular method of getting a Solarforce switch in the tail might not work too well for anyone using significantly shorter batteries, unless they also put a longer and/or tougher spring on the driver and/or switch itself.
The inner tube diameter is about 26.5mm, so there’s no chance.
EDIT: Would be great if it did though. I’d love to see something like a Cyclone C88 with a 55+mm head. In fact it’s tragic that a HD2010 head doesn’t screw onto a C88 body. It’s not far off really.
Oh, and thanks for in the info on the Solarforce switch. I think that spring on the driver needs beefed up anyway. I'm about 2 weeks away from having the switch & tailcap parts.
Recv'd my Solarforce switches today - 8 days from order and ordered during the Chinese holiday! My first experience with Solarforce. Also received my aluminum heatsink pill "insert" from a generous BLF member the other day. Now if I can only get some free time to work on this light!
cainn, I should be ok. I also use protected 18650's and a raised-top King Kong 26650 (which is a bit longer due to that "raised-top").
Just brought over this photo I've posted previously. That plastic disk is 0.50mm so this raised-top cell is 68.05 - not that much longer.
i like those heatsinks, saw a pic of them the other day. Hurry up and get that sucker installed and let it sing!
Went outside with the light last night and thinking on the brightness issue. Maybe it is the tint of the led that is making it fill like it is underperforming in my eyes. Been thinking that maybe I should put that xml 1a in there and see if there is more perceived brightness.
Not trying to get it to perform like my HD2010 but atleast maybe put a little smile on my face. :~
Turned mine on last night and left it standing on the head for 15-20 minutes. After 5 you couldnt tell much difference, and at the end of the time it was finally warming up the pill section, the head and body was getting a little warm also. Either this is a heat dissipating monster or
I just ordered a second one of these - $18.99 with free shipping (same seller as O.P. - TopofKing). Then while perusing more Ebay listings I found it for as low as $16.93 with free s&h, but I don't know about this seller.
anybody got a bad one like me? Bad glass or reflector causing rings… spring being held by solder which i accidently popped and had to re-solder cuz I wanted to stretch them out for my flat top 26650s. Also the end switch goes out pretty fast? Anyways the low bin XM-L emitter is the most annoying part. with yellow tint and the corona of the light? I will post pictures when I can borrow a digital camera.
I was able to improve the ringyness somewhat by filing down the base of the plastic spacer, so the LED was positioned just a tiny bit deeper into the reflector. This may or may not be a good idea for you since the tolerances seem to vary from one light to another.
For those with rainbowy rings like mine. I took the glass off and wiped the metal reflector. Also narrowed it down to the reflector and not the glass, can’t remember who mentioned it, but thanks!
Using my finger and occasionally touching the LED while on, which was hot to the touch and cleaning and re-smearing the reflector with my fingerprints DRAMATICALLY reducted the appearance of rings. Maybe the factory had a wash that really made the product too clean?
Wish I took before and after pics. Now it’s barely noticeable. Kinda reminds me of those threads of cleaning & letting the LED breath a little. Lengthening the spring I noticed now with 2 fresh CR123s, fresh 26650 (Trustfire Flames) and 4 fresh AAA that it is noticeably brighter than on a generic 18650.
Nope, too much work to do at home. I also think the work on the A60 will come ahead of this one. Got a baby on the way and apparently converting our spare bedroom/home office is more important than modding flashlights. Gotta love women's priorities, right? I mean, we have like 2 1/2 months until the baby comes . . . that's plenty of time! :) (This is child #2 by the way, my first is 7.)
