Small Sun ZY-T08

One of the best price / value ratio in the market.

Hi Viffer750. What kind of mod did you do to the driver and why did you (of all people) do a "conservative resistor modification" ??

I'd want to drive that thing... You already know what I'm gonna say don't you

Ilikeflashlights says his sample has tint bit cooler than the t13 (which IMO has about perfect for a thrower, ~1D, the stl-v2/v6’s have 1A tints). How’s the color on yours?

Increased output with weaker cell (and by weaker I assume you mean lower voltage) implies the driver regulates to constant power, which is frankly surprising for a light in this price category. Might be able to use cr123’s after all. Anyone brave enough to give it a shot? :bigsmile:

Love this light. But mine arrived with one spring way off centre, it still worked but didn’t look good. So I took the switch off and re-soldered it in place. Found the four screws that hold the switch plate onto the body were all not tight at all. Might be worth checking your screws before they fall out guys.

Anyone got the driver board out yet? How to do it??

I soldered an additional 0.22ohm resistor parallel with the 3 small smd resistors.

This increases the driver/led current. Now the measured current on the driver side is 3.2A.

And the output brightness increased from 600 to 750 lumen, and from 41kcd to 50kcd.

Sweet! TY viffer750 :-)

Hmm, hard to determine the tint bin for me, what I see, it’s cool white, cooler side of the tint bin, the spill with slight purple tint, the spot is pure white

You can clearly see the tint difference between the T08 vs the T13 in post #7. Like I said it’s a cooler white.

viffer750, what was the drive current on high before the mod? Also, is that a 20mm driver board? And how is the pill? Is it hollow? Good heatsinking?

-Garry

Great mod, Viffer! Thanks for sharing. Any chance we can get a mouse over comparing pre-mod beam to post-mod beam?

2.3-2.4A,

the star is bigger than 20mm, I don’t know exactly, I don’t want to take apart the head, now it is perfectly centered. :wink:
I think it is 25mm.
The pill is not hollow, and the heatsinking is very good.

I have to remove the resistor, you give me a lot of work. :slight_smile: I will try.

Sounds great! And definitely sounds like it needs the mod! So it must not be the typical "direct drive on high" type of drivers we've been seeing used a lot lately.

I realize now the driver board must be really wide due to the two battery cells needing to make contact with the center contact on the board. Is there room under the stock driver board if someone wanted to add a Nanjg driver (say one beefed up with 10xAMC's for 3.5A) and still use the stock board for battery contact only?

-Garry

Dang it viffer750! Just when I was trying to resist buying this one (actually resisting for now and post-poning the purchase another month or so)! Argh!

-Garry

Don’t bother then. I was just hoping you might have taken a pic before the change.

Hey, off the top of your head, do you recall the resistor needed to bump the ZY-T13 to the same 3.2A as this one? I know you used a pot and not a resistor but what resistor would I need instead of a pot?

I can’t wait until mine shows up!!! :bigsmile:

Can't really use the same current, T13 runs on 2series, this one 2p.

But the pot used was set to 0.7ohm to get ~1.6A, which being 2s is about equivalent to 3.2A in 2p assuming similar efficiency. So any 0.7ohm resistor will work.

I have ready stock of 0.47ohm and am itching to put it in my T13, but afraid it might just give too much current.

Just ordered from manafont. How is this light
compared to hd2010? The waiting begins. J)

I’ll let you know once mine comes in. My HD2010 just came in today and I love it! Its about equal to my UniqueFire UF-V6. HD is slightly brighter… only noticeable against a wall shot. The UF-V6 has tighter hotspot (1/3 of hd2010), and less spill. A couple more weeks, and I’ll see how it compares.

CR123’s?