What about "Glad brand Press-n-Seal" which you recommended back in July here? I do want to keep as mush output as I can of course.
Got a good source for DC Fix? I googled it and found different varieties of it.
-Garry
Thanks scaru! I might just go ahead and order some as it's cheap enough.
-Garry
Great stuff, and available at most grocery stores.
Still recommended.
I hate to (partially) disagree with Chicago X but Press n Seal (which will work) also is somewhat directional as I recall (I’ve tried most films at one point or another).
DCfix seems to be the best for most applications and Magic Tape works well (but I do agree with Chicago X’s comments here) for those times when the design of the light makes the stiffer DCfix harder to use.
If you really want to experiment sometime order one of the Lee Filters sample gell packs and there are many different grades of diffusion.
DCfix is what I end up using most often however.
Yes, buy two, LOL.
Make one a thrower and the other a flooder. Ues Krylon on the flooder reflector. It's permanent, but I think it dosen't loose as much light as film does. Just my feeling.
Wonder what a half and half reflector would do?
Half OL with krylon and half factory!
That's not the right spray. You need Acrylic Crystal Clear Gloss. The frosting spray can be applied to the inside of the lens to get a frosted lens effect, but sputtering the reflector requires crystal clear gloss or you'll lose a lot of output.
Of the choices given so far, I'd choose DC Fix. It retains the most output and has the convenience of being semi-permanent.
No disagreement here - due to the patterning of the film, it can be a tad uneven on smaller lenses. Since the subject was one of throwers with typically larger reflectors, it likely won't apply.
Thanks guys! Good thing I didn't use the frosting spray on a reflector yet! I'll probably pickup the DC Fix and Glad press-n-seal as well as some extra P60/C8 lenses to experiment with.
-Garry
Press n Seal acts the same with big or small reflectors. It has a polarizing effect and creates an elongated oval shaped beam. You have to use two layers oriented 90 degrees to each other to get a round beam, but the resulting output loss is significant.
The stuff is fine if you use just one layer and don't mind an oval shaped beam. But not so good if you want a round beam.
I just went back and tried some again - you guys are right. 
I never noticed the effect before with a single layer.
I just ordered a big sheet of that d-c-fix film, can send out small sheets when I get it.
Here’s an experiment that I performed awhile ago:
First picture is of a stock MagLED.
Second picture is the same light with the reflector sputtered with clear hairspray.
Third picture is of the stock reflector and/or with the sputtered reflector behind a diffusion film.
Note that the sputtered beam loses the rings, but, is otherwise almost the same as stock. Also note that the hard edge of the spill is gone with the diffusion film.
What you can’t see in the first two pictures is the hotspot. It’s in that round spot, which is actually the corona. The hotspot in the last picture is as shown.
So in your experiment you never got lots of flood. So perhaps diffusion film isn't enough for me to get that "XM-L in a P60" type of beam?
(BTW - I'm getting a "you don't have enough posts" message on CPFMP when I login. Will I still be able to order? I don't get the notice on the regular CPF (where I have a whopping 13 post count!)
Oh, and I looked for the Glad press-n-seal. I only found a "limited edition" apparently with some sort of winter print/design to it so I didn't buy it.
-Garry
Nope. What it did was to brighten and widen the spill and it blended the hotspot and corona, reducing its ability to throw. I suppose you can increase the diffusing film or use a diffusing lens to eliminate the hotspot altogether, but, this also reduces output. If you want a wider XM-L hotspot then you’ll need to change reflectors or swap in an emitter with a larger die, like an SST-90.
Well I think I'm still going to get the light. I'll just be prepared if it doesn't diffuse as wide as I hoped.
Oh, and I just came back from ordering the DC Fix on CPFMP - I feel so dirty now coming back from that place! Nothing but trouble trying to post and PM the guy! What a joke! I hope it goes through ok! (Why the heck would I want to make posts in the Marketplace that are anything other than placing an order?? Guess I could raise my post count by asking stupid questions just for the sake of getting a post up - oh, wait, then I'll get reamed out for posting a stupid question and not searching! You can't win over there!)
-Garry
Garry:
I've used the film on a few lights. To me it smooths out the beam, doesn't really turn it into a flooder. Hot spot is retained, but it is more... well, diffuse. 
I do think there is a small loss in brightness, but you would only be able to tell with two identical lights side by side or with a light meter/sphere.
I am going to try the stippling to remove a ringy beam from a SMO reflector. Before I do it though, I'll try diffusion film. I suggest you try both - the film can be removed, the spray paint is permanent.
Yeah I don't want "total flood", but I do want a wide beam (think cycling use - see about a 10 to 12 foot swath in front of me and then see a good bit down the trail as well). The "XM-L in a P60" has really become my favorite beam pattern for "real world use". It's been said before, throwers are great for wowing people and playing with, but in everyday use a floodier light is generally what's needed.
BTR, any chance you can get beamshots stock, diffused with film, and sprayed? (I don't think I ever see you post beamshots.) I've ordered the film - well I sent PayPal for it, but I can't get the a PM sent to the guy! Really irritating! I went to PM him from the "regular" CPF site (not CPFMP) and when I click send I get a "database error". Glad we don't deal with this crap over here at BLF!
-Garry