Review: UltraFire HD2010

[arn357]

My HD201 from Tmart sequence goes like this: Press fully to turn ON, always starts on High, half press to cycle through, Med - Low - Strobe - SOS. With flashlight turned ON, half press for at least 3 seconds on ANY mode and it will return back to high.

@ryanferg

@SashiX

No, that’s not “memory”. Mine does the same.
When you switch between modes, you half press the button. In that moment, switch is momentary off and than on again. Normally, it should be programmed for less than a second, but some “genius” make that short period too long :bigsmile: My HD has 2 seconds delay.

If I turn mine off and leave it for like 15-20 seconds, then it will start from the beginning again. But it’s not that consistent, I can’t figure out the ‘rules’ that govern what mode it will come on next or when it ‘forgets’ . Honestly, I think mine is haunted.

[Andi]

My modded HD2010 has now 120000 Lux 8)
…dedomed.

With: XM-L U2, 7135driver=3,7A, UCLp

before dedome it was 57000 Lux.

[jmpaul320]

where did u get the ucl from?

[Andi]

I buy a little bit bigger one from flashlightlens ( UCL*p* ) and use a rasp.

[JohnnyMac]

@Andi

My modded HD2010 has now 120000 Lux 8) …dedomed. With: XM-L U2, 7135driver=3,7A, UCLp before dedome it was 57000 Lux.

Andi, what method did you use to dedome it? I dedomed my ZY-T13 using the “run it till hot and peel off the dome with your fingernail” technique but the lux didn’t change. I still only get 39k out of it. Horrible!!

[Andi]

I use a razor blade and cut in the dome a little bit on the opposite side of the bonding wires. Then use tweezer, hold star and press the dome directly on a cookplate(full power) for 25sec.
Then lift the dome with fingernail at the cut.

Most time it works perfectly.

[JohnnyMac]

@Andi

I use a razor blade and cut in the dome a little bit on the opposite side of the bonding wires. Then use tweezer, hold star and press the dome directly on a cookplate(full power) for 25sec. Then lift the dome with fingernail at the cut. Most time it works perfectly.

When you say a “cookplate” are you talking about the stove top? As in red hot glowing element?

[Andi]

translator say….yes, i have a ceramic/glass stove(hob). 0:)

[Ford_Prefect]

I have an extra xm-l u2 on star and an HD2010 and a ceramic top stove….

Any guesses what I’m trying tonight?

[Karboncraig]

Iv got a U2 led & a 4amp (intl outdoor) driver firstly will the 4a be overdriven with the U2 & secondly what’s the easiest way to sandwich the smaller driver in? This will be my first proper Mod iv only just replaced my small sun C10 driver to a 105c successfully yesterday has some good THROW now! Cheers in advance for any help!

[MRsDNF]

@Karboncraig

Iv got a U2 led & a 4amp (intl outdoor) driver firstly will the 4a be overdriven with the U2 & secondly what’s the easiest way to sandwich the smaller driver in? This will be my first proper Mod iv only just replaced my small sun C10 driver to a 105c successfully yesterday has some good THROW now! Cheers in advance for any help!

Do you have a link for the driver to get an idea of the size?

[Karboncraig]

Think it’s this one http://www.intl-outdoor.com/4a-3mode-2745v-circuit-board-p-546.html will that work?

[MRsDNF]

Its the same driver I've had here for a couple of weeks but have not had time to use it yet. I have modified my stock pill slightly and have a driver in it at the moment so cant tell definitely if it will fit, but a quick measurement and eyeball I reckon it will squeeze in ok without any mods.

[cainn]

I have that same driver in my cart right now, with a few other bits and pieces. Haven’t pulled the trigger yet though. It seems like the perfect driver to use when you want to over-drive an XM-L, but within reason.

[Karboncraig]

Nice one I will investigate soon, you guys reckon its worth swapping the current LEd for the U2? With that driver or keep current one. As for the spring can I just de solder the old one off & re-solder to that board. Or is there something else i can use for the contact?

[MRsDNF]

I have had both in and the stock led if you like the tint is pretty good.

[cainn]

@Karboncraig

As for the spring can I just de solder the old one off & re-solder to that board. Or is there something else i can use for the contact?

Using the old spring is probably fine, assuming the base lines up well enough with the contacts. You can pretty much make it work no matter what if you’re creative. While you’re shopping at IO though, throw an assortment of springs into you cart as well. If you’re gonna be modding, they’ll come in handy. In fact you might as well just go through the entire Torch components section and pick up at least one of anything you think you might ever need. You know, tail boots, contact PCB’s, brass pills etc. Because it sucks having to wait 2 weeks when you finally need something like that.

Most of all, have fun!

[Karboncraig]

Yup realised this now i think il order a small assortment of things! Probably a new driver for one of my bike lights too as it decided to die on me last night!! Damn!! Thanks for all the advice guys too

[Rockspider]

I don't know why someone would want a diffuser on a thrower, but just for info purpose, I was playing today and the diffuser lens and rubber bezel assembly for the Olight SR51 fits the HD2010 like a glove.

The resulting beam is perfectly diffused, obviously useful at a very short range (for example it's perfect for indoor use)

[ChiggerPepi]

My HD2010 is finally complete!

Mine arrived with some “issues”. It worked okay, but only pulled about 1 amp for some reason.

I promptly removed the led and driver, replaced with a XML-U3, and the Nanjg105c +1 7135 and custom Luxdrv.

Worked great! Until it was hot, then it started to “sing” and dim. My ears took me to the tailcap. The switch had a broken solder joint, so I just replaced the whole thing with a forward clickie, and my light is now complete!

Best thrower I have for sure, but I gotta admit, my XinTD is still not all that far behind, and it arrived pretty much perfect. No fuss.

Meh, it’s fun to mod.

BLF rocks.