Ya...I can confirm that. The heads of the 2xAAA I have and the solitaire Justin sent me are not compatible. The tailcaps are though...
I could probably paint the inside threads with nail polish or epoxy (very thin coat), but I just hate to cut and join those thin bodies. Who knows though, they might still be 1s instead of 2s, you never know. I also got a couple XP-Es in and I might put one of them in one of the small lights....
If you do cut them down then I would recommend gluing them so they don't get bent at the joint.
JB Weld, if I do it. I would do Hot/Cold, but that might crack the super thin sidewall when the temps equalize.
A green LED in one of the small lights might be very cool.
Thanks for the video on the switch. I’m gonna try the pencil on a switch I have.
More photos in the OP (original post). The cut down is done on the 1D.
Instead of using the freezer for shrinkage, you might want to try dry ice or canned air. Turn the can upside down and spray. You can get to below –40 degrees with canned air… much better shinkage than you can get with a freezer.
Dry Ice is fun stuff, that is how I was able to get a battery out of a flashlight. (Dry Ice and then torch it, the body heated up and the battery was still freezing)
Good job on the short green D-mag. You skill is evident in that seam Justin. Great videos too BTW.
Another video, on the Tail Cap Switch is in Post #1 and a couple photos of it in the OP.
The Trio is done. See the OP for the rest of the story.
Beam Shots Tonight, after midnight, when I get home from work.
Looking forward to seeing the beamshots/sales thread. :D
These are AWESOME!!!
Seeing as I am in school at the University of North Texas, these “Mean Green” lights are sick!!
You did a fnatastic job as usual!
They look really great, I esp. like the 1D!
Amazing how you can get the seam so good with the dremel, I tested on a cheapo 3aaa mag copy and its not a pretty picture… 
Practice makes perfect I guess…
Practice does make perfect. Here's my tips on it. On the piece you are going to cut down the OD on, wrap about 10 layers of masking tape around the body, where the cut will end. When I use the dremel cutter, it's 10mm long, so I wrap the tape at about 9mm and it helps to keep me from going too deep or when I slip, it is a buffer.
I take very light cuts and go all the way round each time, moving the body so that I'm always cutting on top, where I can control it. Each time I make a cut, I color the area with a magic marker, so when I make the next cut, I know what I'm taking off that way. I usually make about ten passes off the OD, to get down to where I want. I also use a file when I'm about done, to go round and help make the edge that will be the seam, smooth and even.
On the other half, where I open the ID, it's easier. I can cut a little deeper on each pass, but I still use the marker to color it over between passes, so I know how much I am removing and so I know it's being taken off even front to back (level).
I guess I should do a detailed video showing the little tricks on this.
Man, Old, these are beauties. I really dig the matching double bands-I like how they sorta outline the knurling. I love the way the band of knurling looks on the 1D. The knurling near the head lends the big Mag a perfectly balanced appearance. I never thought I’d like how Mag’s green anodizing looks but darn it, you sure know how to dress em up.
-Drew
I do not like green as a rule and I debated this build. I did it because I knew Green "D" Maglites were harder to find, so I figured a set of green would be different. I ended up liking how they look and I think it's because of the polished accents. The polished bezels and rings make the green look better.
Very nice trio if lights. The polished alloy suits the green to a tee. Would there be any chance to see beam shots of the 15 and 45 degree TIR lenses compared?